Miter saw fence
I’ve got a 12″ Dewalt slide saw with the Dewalt folding leg stand. I’m wanting to have an after market fence with a stop system that is compatible with this saw and stand but allows me to make very accurate multiple cuts. Any product suggestions? Homemade is fine too if it works and is accurate.
Edited 5/12/2008 9:51 am ET by BjR
On trim jobs, I make up a simple L shaped box and attach it to the saw. It provides a zero clearance backer which prevents tear out and it designates exactly where the blade is cutting. You can mark or add stops for crown moldings easily. The limited opening prevents small pieces from going flying. I seldom need the full capacity of the saw for moldings. On long repeat cuts, like framing, I just attach a 1x3 to the saw fence and clamp a stop block to it. The box gets tossed at the end of a job. I use the fence extension until it's too short. I have a couple of roller stands to position depending on the length and position of the work. There are some nice table extensions for sale but they are expensive. The things I use are scrap. The one in the picture has had it and then some. You can make any size you need. Let the fence part be as long as you want. Four screws and it's on or gone.
If you're wanting multiple cuts of the same length, I find the Biesemeyer stop excellent. For that matter, makes changing lengths a simple matter with the stick-on tape. Typical Biesemeyer product.
PAHS works. Bury it.
"If you're wanting multiple cuts of the same length, I find the Biesemeyer stop excellent. For that matter, makes changing lengths a simple matter with the stick-on tape. Typical Biesemeyer product. "
Do you know how it pairs up with and works with the Dewalt stand? From the pic's it looks like it's table mounted.
I've been using a wooden "L" shaped fence and it's not as rigid therefore not as accurate as I'd like. I'm cutting multiples of some pretty wide pieces (12 1/2") of stain grade oak so accuracy is really important. In order to screw the "L" fence to the back of the saw the fence has to be high enough to match the factory holes in the saw. When that happens the bottom of the saw won't pass over the fence then. I've tried notching the fence to allow the bottom of the saw to pass but then I lose the registration of the saw blade on the back of the fence. I suppose I could drill some new holes lower down on my saw but I'm not real keen on doing that. Still looking.......
Sorry, know nothing about the Dewalt stand. Can't imagine you'd have any problem attaching a rail to your stand. To me, needing an extra screw hole or few isn't much of an issue.
It's a tool, make it work for you.
I bought my stop for use on a sliding table, but it's applicable to about anything. Accuracy is what it's all about, with every Biesemeyer product I've used.
PAHS works. Bury it.
Sawhelper. Sturdy, light, portable, accurate.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
Pick up another set of DW 7232 workstation supports and screw mount a 3/4" piece of ply as a deck to one side of the saw.
"Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
If taking a minute to set up the cut is OK, then any sort of
temporary stop will work.
As long as it is stable, a couple of 2x screwed together work as well as a store bought.
The two advantages of a fancy set up would be- ease of set up and an
inside 45 for mitre cuts.
The ends of the miter's are pretty easy to mush into the stop otherwise.
My Dewalt non-slider is the same height as a pt 4x4 (convenient).