Replies

1. 
   WINSTALL | Dec 21, 2007 07:11pm | #1

   Are they insulated glass? Is the warm air supply near most of the windows? Without a questions.... you will have to back down the humidifier. Also, do you have a lot of house plants?

1. 
   tonedg | Dec 21, 2007 09:13pm | #3

   Yes, they are millgard insulated double hung. And yes, there is a vent underneath each window. I need to clarify, there is no humidifier running, all moisture is from living in the house, (family of 5). would a De-humidifier in the above the air handler be a good idea, or should i kick down and buy a HRV to install in the return and slupply lines?
   thanks. I never thought of Alaska as humid, but i guess it is.

1. 
   WINSTALL | Dec 21, 2007 10:05pm | #5

   Not a heck of a lot you can do with the os temps the way they are. it is not unusual for any window to "sweat". The other question is... how old is the house? The amount of residual moisture in a newer home can add to the problem. Keep a towel handy and start wiping!!!

2. 
   RichBeckman | Dec 21, 2007 07:34pm | #2

   tonedg,

   Here is a very recent thread on this subject:

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=97680.1

   Rich Beckman

   Oh, and it's the same old story
   Ever since the world began
   Everybody got the runs for glory
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the plan
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the plan
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the plan

   Paul Simon, 1973

1. 
   tonedg | Dec 21, 2007 09:23pm | #4

   Thanks, I just checked out the other post, least I'm not the only one. Looks, like I have high humidity and also it probally does not help that it's about zero out and with the wood stove i can get it up to 72 degrees inside.
   thanks for the info.

1. 
   Tyr | Dec 21, 2007 10:24pm | #6

   As former owner/installer of storm windows (pre IG units) I can verify that indoor humidity compared to outside temp can be a problem. Last time it was all the indoor plants but we installed exterior storms over leaky primes. Moisture laden air went through primes and condensed on storms. I placed a humidity gauge in the house for a week and demonstrated to HO that is was not the windows.Are you saying moisture is building up inside the IG (insulated glass) units? That indicates a failure of the seal. Most carry a warranty for 5 years. I have also seen IG seals fail because they were manufactured at sea level and shipped to a higher elevation. (The air/gas inside has less atmospheric pressure on it at higher elevations--in my case 5280 ft--so the denser sea level gas blows the seal).If the IG is air filled there are small tubes about 7-10mm (a mechanical pencil lead) that are supposed to be crimped closed by the installer at the installation elevation so AP is balanced.What elevation are you? Age of window? Installed by ? I don't remember the acceptable indoor humidity but am sure you can find it on the net for your temp. Get a gauge first. Surf the net for info. Contact maker.You used to be able to look at the metal spacer between the two glass panels and a date was visible stamped in the metal. You'll probably leave a cheek print on the glass. Good Luck, TyrPS Assuming they still exist--we made both exterior storms AND interior storms. If the primes are shot and you don't want to replace them right away the interior storms might be the way to go.
   I haven't paid much attention to their availability or construction but ours were custom designed. They had a vinyl frame around the glass, stuff called FinSeal made by Schlegal (the pile to keep things tight had a vinyl fin or wiper built into it), everything fit into a vinyl track installed with doublesided foam tape, and there were "interlocks" so when two panels were closed the interlocks hooked together to sort of seal the dead air space created between the interior storms and your primes (should be about a 2" space). They could work over double hungs but not usually. The interior storms put a good tight surface on the INSIDE where the heat and moisture reside. You could take those panels out in the summer (mark location with a Magic Marker on top edge first) and stored. TyrEdited 12/21/2007 2:32 pm by TyrEdited 12/21/2007 3:11 pm by Tyr

   Edited 12/21/2007 3:19 pm by Tyr

2. 
   RichBeckman | Dec 22, 2007 08:19am | #7

   "Looks, like I have high humidity"

   It might not hurt to get a humidistat and find out exactly what the humidity level is.A large source of indoor humidity can be the ground under the house. If you have a crawlspace, it is reasonably easy to cut a substantial amount of that moisture off at the source.

   Rich Beckman

   Oh, and it's the same old story
   Ever since the world began
   Everybody got the runs for glory
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the plan
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the plan
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the planPaul Simon, 1973

1. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 22, 2007 08:37am | #8

   "It might not hurt to get a humidistat and find out exactly what the humidity level is."A humidistat won't tell you what the humidity, at least not very accurately.All you can do is to turn it until you hear it click.You need a hygrometer or psychrometer and chart to convert the wet/dry bulb readins to RH..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

1. 
   RichBeckman | Dec 22, 2007 09:46pm | #10

   "You need a hygrometer or psychrometer..."LOL!!There was a voice in the back of my head saying "you've got the wrong word"......

   Rich Beckman

   Oh, and it's the same old story
   Ever since the world began
   Everybody got the runs for glory
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the plan
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the plan
   Nobody stop and scrutinize the planPaul Simon, 1973

3. 
   Matt | Dec 22, 2007 07:53pm | #9

   do your bathrooms and kitchen have exhaust fans that go to the outside of the structure and are they used every time any cooking or bathing takes place?

   Do you have a damp crawl space or basement?