Hey all, I am going to be pulling out a 500 sq ft pt deck at a summer home on an island in long island sound and replacing it with TREX.
My client has told me about a screw which “burns in” sealing itself.
So no need to go stainless.
Anybody worked with this product?
This is my first time w/TREX I have heard good things about it.
Thanks in advance
Replies
There are lots of screw manufactures that make screws designed for composit decking. I would recommend you go to where ever you are buying your Trex and see what they offer and sample the screw.Make sure it counter sinks and sets flat to the surface without making it swell up.
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Edited 6/20/2003 11:18:39 PM ET by Pro-Dek
an island in long island sound... forget it.. SS or nothing.. trex will last forever... any other fastenings besides SS will rust out fast... "burns in " ain't gonna cut it
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Did my first TREX deck last summer....the decking went down just fine, but I was very unhappy with the rail materials. Posts cannot be notched and I wasn`t satisfied with the TREX to TREX connections. See if ya can`t incorporate conventional materials for the rails.
I agree with Mike on the fasteners...stainless is a must for your localle.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
for the rails.. i like to rip 5/4 merante for the balusters.. then use a 2x4 PT or RC subrail with a Trex cap.. the shoe rail is a 2x6 merante ripped in half and run thru a mill
on this one we made our caps from 2x8 RC.. never again... i can buy them cheaper and just as goodMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
here's some of how it turned outMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
SCHAWEEEEET! Great lookin` rail....I always prefer the look of a painted rail....very few HOs want to be bothered with the maintenance though.J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Looks great Mike.
"we made our caps from 2x8 RC.. never again"
I had to learn that one the hard way too. There are too many high production facilities pumping those caps out to compete with price wise.
Nice job on the rail design.
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Sorry to change the subject, but what happened to your animated hammer? Just a box with an x now.
what happened to your animated hammer? Just a box with an x now.
Good question Notchman.
Must be a Prospero thing. Maybe one of them is a humanitarian and felt the nail was taking too much punishment.
If they would of asked me I would of removed it. Now I'm stuck with a box I have no idea how to eliminate.Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
That X means that you specified a graphic but the system can't find it.
That means that the source of the graphic has either been moved or that server is down.
BTW, no red X is showing on my end.
A suggestion, take a good look a your joist size, span, etc. for the Trex is a heavy beast. What are your joist centers, 16" or 24" vs 1 1/2" or 5/4 Trex??. Last Deck I did was 5/4 Trex with joist at 12" centers. Jim J
Put down my first Trex deck last summer. It gets splashed every day from a fountain my wife has on it. Hasn't stained or changed color from it's orriginal medium grey. We really like it and are going to replace a 900 sq. foot deck around the house with the same stuff later this summer. My yard says they have sold a couple of car loads of the material over the last few years and have had very few recalls except for the railing problems that have also been discussed on this page. Our daytime temps range up to the low 100's, so it's important in our area to make sure the ends of the Trex are gapped properly. I'm designing the replacement deck to eleminate butt joints for that problem by using diagonals and such. Other than the expansion, I like the stuff a lot. No one in our area uses stainless fasteners, and in fact, they are not required by Trex to guarantee the job. I suppose it depends on your local and weather.