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I have my kitchen cabinets (Kraftmaid) on site and I’m mounting them directly to 8816 block walls, no firring. Any suggestions on hanging the uppers, i.e., fasteners, ledgers, leveling, scribing, etc?
Thanks, Andrew Meyer, Tucson, AZ
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Andrew , Use Tapcon screws , they are blue epoxy coated ,hex head or philips flat head.
*Drive those Tapcons into the solid portion of the blocks... not into the hollow core or the mortar. Use hex/washer head Tapcons for an easier time with your driver/drill.
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I would prefer to use "butterfly" bolts. the kind where you drill a bit oversize hole, push through the spring loaded butterfly and tighten. With a taper head bolt and finishing washer to cover the hole, you can do a neat job. A bolt every 16 inches or so and the cabinets will be very strong. This technique also allows some vertical and horizontal adjustment.
I have used Tapcons and find them useful, but you don't get a second chance with them, they are a bit unforgiving.
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I agree with Geoff. Toggle bolts ( as we call them down here) are a bit more bothersome than tapcons but are stronger, another choice would be the "Toggler bolt" by Hilti. I have had good results with them and they make removing the cabinets easier. Skip down on the coast
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You are right Skip. We call them toggle bolts up here as well. But it was late...and I knew a bunch of problem solvers would know what I meant. Thanks for the clarification though.
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I like Tapcons a lot, but I don't know that I would trust them with cabinets where any failure would be catistrophic. In Calif. virtually all block walls are grouted solid, so a concrete anchor, such as a RedHead, would be appropriate. Butter flies would be good for a hollow wall.
*No big fan of overpriced tapcons here. Recently had to reattach some cabinets that were falling off the wall in a money vault (money weighs alot). I used 3/8" concrete anchor bolts in the poured walls and felt certain the cabinets would fail before the anchors. Have been attaching kv shelf standards by the score in a downtown basement this week. The walls were poured, block, old structural tile with plaster coating, etc. Given the restriction of using #10 or #12 flathead screws i went with 5/16" alligator brand plastic anchors. Felt good about them as they sinched down nicely with none of the disconcerting wobble that can be found in some metal to concrete systems.j d
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Actually you do have a second chance with Tapcons a piece of copper wire inserted into the hole before the screw goes in works nicely. The problems I've had with Tapcons is sinking it too far past the surface of the cabinet back. Making it hard to plug.
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I have my kitchen cabinets (Kraftmaid) on site and I'm mounting them directly to 8816 block walls, no firring. Any suggestions on hanging the uppers, i.e., fasteners, ledgers, leveling, scribing, etc?
Thanks, Andrew Meyer, Tucson, AZ