I’m replacing 2 1/2 (or maybe 1/4) inch standard colonial casing with 4 1/4 wide flat casing (Windsor One). Because the casing is wider, the casing on the left side of the doorway will run into the duplex light and ceiling fan switch next to the casing. I thought the switch box was connected on the right side, but it is connected on the left side. Therefore, it’s not as easy as simply moving the box to the left. Other than moving the whole box to the other side of the stud (and running the wires through the stud), does anyone have any other ideas? The whole wall is drywalled and painted.
Thanks
Replies
If you can't move it or hide it, make it a feature.
Include the light switch totally within the trim in a little "kickout" from the casing
You may need a box extension ring with the added depth.
Adventures in Home Building
An online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
This was a case of 10 lbs. of #### in an 8 lb. bag. No moving the box so the feature was done.
View ImageA great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
And there you have it!
Nice work.
BTW, where are you near Tol. I think I asked this before and I think you said Old Orchard - or was "just outside the glass city "P-burg"?. I am a former Sylvanian. Went to St. John's.
Nevermind, just looked at your profile. I used to work for Spartan (just before they made the move to Maumee) Dad worked for Champion for 20 years.
http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
Thanks man. You do what you have to do and hope it doesn't offend someone.
You've got it right with Maumee. Walker's in P-burg. Fred3056 (or something like that) is in Sylvania, JHole over in Oregon. There's a couple more around here from Findlay, Defiance and one guy showed up from Point Place, but he has vanished. This place has a unique habit for that. How's Wisconsin?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
You forgot Bob! - he's in P-burg, right?
WI is not bad. Similar climate to NE OH, but a little more "rolling" in the geography.
Work is good, home is good, it'll do for now, ya know?
http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
Just get an "OLD WORK" box. It has ears that bear against the back of the sheet rock, no stud needed.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
but he still has to get through the stud, which is the far bigger problem.If the box fits within the casing, I vote with the "feature" solution.
Even if he could go to the other side of the stud, does he have enough wire to work with? He wouldn't hide a splice in the wall, would he?
http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
No he won't. (G) He can only slide sideways as far as the slack allows, he WILL be missing code by pulling the required staple(s) to GET that slack. Staples must be 8" or less, from box HERE.
When I wire I alwqys try to leave a "Service loop" of extra wire, J.I.C. a conducter may break short of what is needed to pigtail or reach the switch. Or, in case a situ just like this comes up.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
I guess I wasn't too clear. There is a stud right next to the box. Therefore, I can't move the box to the left like I was planning to do. I've already bought the old work box and drywall repair kit.
Ok, maybe I didn't read it right..LOL
You can drill at angle thru the stud no? The hole doesn't HAVE to be exactly perpendicular to the face of the stud.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
It sounds like that's the only option.
Thanks to all
Just to be clear, it seems we're assuming Romex here. If this is an older house with, say, black pipe, it's a whole different bunch of considerations. Thing one is to take it apart and see.
-- J.S.
House is about 10 yrs old. It is Romex, but I've yet to take the box apart to see what I have to work with. I'll be saving that for after Thanksgiving travel.
Good, then the main question is how much slack you'll find.
-- J.S.
WHY NOT JUST TRIM ON AROUND IT ALONG WITH YOUR WIDE CASING AND BE DONE WITH THE HEADACHE OF THE BOX ,WIRE,STUD ETC
Moving the box may well be easier than doing a nice job on the trim, and the end result usually looks better.
-- J.S.
Not trying to hijack your thread, but the answer to my question may help you out. Since you can't bury a splice box inside a wall behind the sheetrock, could you put a flat cover on the box, and cover it with the casing? Technically it's not buried in the wall, and i can think of situations where much less access to a box is allowed code wise. Like behind a refrigerator or something like that. Personally, I don't find it any more difficult to remove the casing to access the box, than pulling out the refrigerator.
You'd have to screw on the casing. I suppose you could use trim screws, but to keep it conceptually legal they shouldn't be puttied or filled with paint.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
Dan has it right. To be code legal, the trim would have to be put on with screws. The paint work would get messed up if you ever really had to use that access. And you might have some difficulty convincing your inspector....
With a reasonable amount of slack in the romex, and perhaps cheating the box up or down a little, moving it would likely be easier than that. If this is a place where appearance is critical, like a living or dining room, I'd go to the effort of fishing from the attic or crawl space, and splicing in a box there.
Bottom line, I like the look of electrical done right over the look of a lot of extra trim carpentry effort to get around electrical in the wrong place.
-- J.S.
I'm kinda getting the impression that folks thought I was kidding when I said to hack out the stud.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
Hack away the stud.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
The way I read it all he has to do is remove the old box, maybe pull a staple that is within 8" down or up from the box, measure the slack wire, and cut in the new box a few inches over, and patch the hole if the trim won't cover it.
No going thru any studs, the wire stays in the same bay.
1/2 hour job.
edit: sorry I read it too fast and inaccuratly.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Edited 11/21/2006 7:08 pm ET by Sphere
there's got to be a better way. I'm not sure what your using for switches or what purpose the stud serves but you might be able to notch the front of the stud a bit and use a shallow box
When you say "duplex" do you mean a single gang box with a stack switch in the orientation of a standard duplex receptacle or are you talking about a two gang side by side switch? If it is a two gang you might be able to convert to single gang and use the stack switch or one of the combo fan/light switches.
Otherwise it sounds like moving over and doing some drywall repair.