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I am moving a 2-story 10×10 pumphouse 6 miles into town and want to set it up in town (Modesto, CA) as a storage/guest bedroom. Will add outdoor stairway.
The problem is how to slow its desent when I pull it over without using a fancy crane. A mover estimated it would take $1800 to use a crane to pick it up, put it on a trailer, move it and set it back up. He hasn’t been able to give me a final price for the last week or so. I’m trying to save money and time. I plan to move it horizontally on a flatbed trailer. I have already had a pre-move inspection and am getting ready to move it or at least take it down.
It was built about 1900 and uses balloon framing with 2×4’s and 4×4’s full length, fireblocking, redwood vee-groove siding. No plaster. Aluminum roofing. Estimated weight 5200 pounds total. Window sashes will be removed prior to move. 20′-3″ tall.
One idea is piling dirt to one side with an inclined broad flat surface facing the puilding. Install a stand and hinge point 4′ high so the building will pivot 4′ high on one edge. Pull the building over and let it fall several feet into the dirt. Dig out dirt until the building falls level. Prop it and drive trailer under.
Another idea to slow its desent is to build some kind of big A-frame with block and tackle.
Time is of the essence as the building needs to be down so the Owner can apply for a permit on the building that will stand where the pumphouse was.
These pump houses were used before rural electrification. Typically they were 3-stories tall with a big sheet-metal open-topped tank on the top floor. A windmill attached to the side of the building pumped water into the tank where it gravity fed the house nearby. Lowest floor was used as a utility room. The middle floor (now top floor) was used as a bedroom, probably for a field hand.
Any ideas?
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Ah come on guys! No suggestions to have a wild party and push it over onto a pile of beer cans?
Will probably use a fork lift to manhandle it. I know one guy that has one with large tires and a 7000 pound rating. Will put it on video in case it fails.
Pretty bad when I have to answer my own posts...
*Gary: I like the forklift idea, but double check the rating on it. Most "7000-pound" forklifts can only lift that much if the weight is centered something like 2 feet from the back of the forks. As you move further out, the rating drops off. (e.g. 3,500 pounds at 4 feet out.) If you can find a big enough forlift, try to get one with long forks or fork extensions. It'd be nice to span the hole structure and aplly force to the walls instead of the floor in the middle.How about lifting like one does a whole house? Unlike a house, you'd only need 4 lift points, one at each corner. Get the official screw-type jacks that the big boys use and run around the corners giving each one another turn until you can get the truck under. If you try to get creative and use automotive bottle jack or floor jacks, please put good cribbing in each corner and never lift more than a few inches past the cribbing before adding the next layer of cribbing. Or use an underrated forlift to rise one side or corner at a time. But, again, don't try for too much in each lift.Cribbing: to support with a frame work of timber. Such as 2-foot long 2x4's, laid flat in an open log-cabin layout. Commonly seen during overpass construction. I'd suggest you nail each layer on as you go.Good Luck -David
*Gary,It sounds to me that as you lean it over, the bottom edge away from the hinge side will be coming up. When it is flat this edge will be 10' high. If the thing were down you might be able to pull it up by this edge. Therefore, you might be able to let it down without any raised framework. Look at the geometry and figure the leverage, and center of gravity and you may find that it is easier to do than you thought.
*Whoops. Realized I discussed how to move it vertically, while you want to move it horizontally. Could you move it vertically, as an overheight load? I've moved a 15,000-gallon SS wine vat for a friend in California. Just looked up in the yellow pages for a firm that specializes in getting the permit. They send you the completed permit which proscribes a particular route. Was maybe $200 to them. I'm not sure what the max height is, but it's gotta be better for the building to remain verical if possible. When I moved that vat, I had the use of a 20-foot flat-bed with a boom crane. Really handy thing. They rent for about $500-600 a day. Or rent a big crane with operator, minimum charge about $350.
*I was out at the site today removing plumbing and electrical and cleaning up. Noticed a 1907 date on the bottom of the concrete utility sink, and behind the sink found an old wood and glass washboard in good condition.Wanted to lift it up today just to disconnect it from the foundation, but ran out of time. Disconnected 3 of the anchor bolts and found they were just about worthless. Had rusted from about 3/8" diameter to about 1/8" and twisted off with a wrench.Will have to lay it down to take it the 6 miles into the center area of town. Too many trees, utility lines, and traffic lights in the way otherwise.I was the architect for the moving and rehab of a three-story victorian that was on the national register but had to be moved to create a parking lot. It cost something like 40K$ just to move and a lot of work with utilities along the way. I also picked up and moved my garage and attached workshop 15'. Bottle jacks and 4x4 cribbing worked pretty well, always keeping a close eye on lateral stability and settling of one side of the cribbing into the dirt.Maybe I should pick up that army book on rigging I saw at the army surplus store. Had good ideas on tying things down with cables and stakes and the various load ratings.I'm afraid to tie down the 10' side of the tower and slowly let it down. Am not sure the tower would work that well as a cantilever beam. Might tear itself apart. It might work with some more bracing however. Stresses would multiply as leverage would be working against me, but is is definately a idea worth considering...It would be nice to work out a system so that other people could do this easily. It could be very practical as it would be easy to move on a standard flatbead or dropbed trailer. If it would only be as easy to move as a drop-off bin.I've already contacted the city about a moving permit. It was only about $15.00. A county permit will also be required. Luckily it is only 11' wide, would probably be more trouble with larger stuff.Thanks for the ideas all!
*Up to 12-feet wide in California just needs signage on the truck itself (and permits from the various jurisdictions). Over 12-feet wide and you need escort vehicles. -David
*Thanks. Got a permit each from city and county for $15.00 each. Not too difficult. Told them it'd be 11' wide, on 2 axle flatbed truck. It might be moved on the grade-all's trailer actually.No pilot car required, but they didn't want it moved durring rush hours. Luckily they didn't ask for insurance or a bond. The building permit, including electrical etc., was only $114.00. They showed occupancy as R-3 (residential).A business associate of mine (engineer) has offered use of his Grade-all forklift. This may turn out to be inexpensive after all!I was afraid I'd have trouble with them and have to make it into a 120 square foot or less roof single story shed (with 33 sq.ft. mezzanine), exempt from building permit. Section 106.2.1 '94 UBC.
*MOVED IT YESTERDAY.Rented an implement trailer for $70.00, got some "oversided load" signs from the local Saftey-Lite store, and three guys from a local construction/military engineering company donated their time and equipment (Gradall) to help.Quite a scene, my wife drove a borrowed 1-ton truck with the pumphouse on its side, feeling quite liberated and excited.I was in pain from waking up with a bad back, after doing latenight prep work, and wasn't much help, lying on the ground at times. Was able to help when needed, but the construction guys figured everything out, starting about 9:30 and ending for pizza and beer at about 2:30 PM. Thanks to everyone.Quite a sight, and quite a scene. Friends and neighbors helped and watched. Have video and pictures. Building will have to be moved a RCH or two, and a mudsil sill was broken, and a window frame or two, but my wife and I are very happy at saving an old building and essentially adding 2 bedrooms or 200 square feet with little cost.
*Gary, didn't you do some work in San Luis Obispo County? I thought I had seen your name on 'prints before.
*Sounds like a lot of fun! Don't invite me to stay in your 10x10 closets though! If it showed up on my lot, I'd be drooling, thinking about the good weiners that would soon be roasting!Thank goodness for new stuff!Blue
*Went to school for two years there after junior college. 1973-1975, majoring in architecture. Didn't have the pleasure of actually building anything there except class projects etc.Favorite professor was Haggard. Niles & Haggard designed the Atascadero "water bed roof" solar house nearby, which we visited.
*Granted, its a bit unusual and not for everyone. :-)
*For those who are interested, I've put pictures of the move, and part of the newspaper article, on my web site athttp://home.att.net/~g.wheelerIts at the bottom of the page under "Projects".