I am confused by all the products available. All I’ve ever used is the USG stuff in the green lid bucket. I don’t understand the differences between the dry stuff in a bag, the premixed in a bucket, the lightweight, the “less dust” that I see now at HD.
What are the different types of drywall mud, and what applications would you use each one? My application would be for residential taping by someone who is SLOW and meticulous. I think I’ve picked up on some of the things you should NOT do (like using fiber tape and lightweight premix) but I have no idea why, or even if I’m wrong. I’m afraid I’m going to buy the wrong thing and have it look like XXXX. Would I be “safe” with the premixed stuff and paper tape, or should I just wait for Dino to post his final recipe for D-Mix?
Replies
General answer-
Green is all purpose, it has vinyl in it as a strengthener, suitable for taping, coating cornerbead and also works for all other uses.
Blue is topping suitable for top coats only, less vinyl and so it is easier to sand
The dry mix muds are hot mud, they dry chemically and the # on the bag 20 40 45 90 roughly corresponds to the minutes it takes to dry.
Durabond is the strongest of the hot muds, more like a tough all purpose and ideal for corner bead ect.
The lite sand muds are more for top coats, although they work as all purpose.
This is general info, check out USG's site for more info
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Good, your answer and USG's site tells me a lot. Now another question. If I wanted to tint the mud to know where I've been, what can I use?
Blue chaulk
The dura bond is good for a first setting mud for the tape and for filling if you have sloppy joints especially.
It will also show where you have been if you then use the all purpose for the second coat, because it is more of a brown colour.
The bonding ageent in the premix is the same or very similar to white glue and to the bonding agents in latex paints. So you can use any paint tint you want also. There is less orf that bonding agent in the easy sand blue top version which is what makes it easier to sand. That explains why you don't want to use it for taping and base coats though. Less bond means weaker stuff.
In wet areas like abthrooms, setting compound is better, because it sets and once cured is far less affected by moisture than the premixed which only dry and can then turn back into sludge when wet.
If you do use the setting types, get durabond 90 or 120 That should give you a couple hours per mix to work with iot between coffee break and lunch break and afternoon tea break, etc. but be sure to clean the bucket and tools before it kicks. I usually use DDB90 but I keep some 30 on hand for quick patch/repair work. That way, I can do three coats and a paint touch up in one day for those careless folks who miss their spouse when throwing lamps and such...
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Have you found Durabond or Easysand to have a shelf life? I had some that I used and then used it several months later and I needed to use a heat gun to dry it, it wouldn't cure by itself after several hours.
Yep. An open bad can change somehow. I've had old durabond 90 that kicked in twenty minutes too. Maybe it's something in th ewater or on th etools or bad bag mix...???
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!