Replies

1. 
   Oak River Mike | Jul 14, 2006 03:15am | #1

   Great timing as I'm just set to do another one and am open to any new ideas or suggestions anyone might have.  Waiting to hear what anyone has to say.

   I do use the Quick Pitch guide systems in all of mine.  I know some of you guys will laugh but I only do about 4  showers a year so they make it easy for me.

   Mike

1. 
   KirkG | Jul 14, 2006 04:35am | #2

   For a dry pack shower floor morter base, use 5:1 ratio of sand to cement. No lime or latex, mix with water only.

2. 
   Notchman | Jul 14, 2006 08:16am | #3

   I used to do a dry pack, then, when the suppliers, even the good ones like Schluter, started selling styrofoam preslopes, I started using type S mortar. 

   I do put chicken wire in it, but I doubt thats even necessary.

   I just built two "high-end" showers in a vacation home, used spec-mix mortar, but waterproofed  with the Schluter kerdi drain system and kerdi waterproofing membranes and I've never enjoyed building showers so much in my life!

   Whaterever you use for your mud base, IMO, it's more important to screed a clean sloped base for your tile over a good subfloor than worry too much about mortar recipes. 

   As long as you get the desired surface contours on the base with a material that won't crumble or disintegrate (most mortars or a well done dry pack won't) you should be OK.

   I tore out an old shower that a HO had built in the 70's.  He'd built his mud bed with what appeared to be premixed concrete.  It was in good shape.  Unfortunately, his waterproofing was very poorly done and the rest of the shower and part of the subfloor were pretty well gone.

1. 
   morphadite | Jul 15, 2006 05:57am | #4

   Thanks for the info, very good stuff.  When you say "s" mortar mix can use that for a dry mix or does it have to be wet when spread?

    

   Pat

1. 
   Notchman | Jul 15, 2006 06:30am | #5

   Well, you have to wet it up with water....even with "dry" pack, you're introducing water so the cement in the mortar can hydrate.

   When doing a dry pack mix, the sand to portland cement ratio is richer than in an ordinary masonry mortar, which type s is.

   I suggest you get John Byrne's Tile book through Taunton press or it can usually be found in larger building supply stores and the boxes like Home Depot.

   Also check out the John Bridge Ceramic Tile Forum.  http://www.johnbridge.com

   Edited 7/14/2006 11:31 pm by Notchman

3. 
   user-69050 | Jul 15, 2006 10:26pm | #6

   I use sand and topping mix. 40# bag, add 10# play sand and enough water to make a ball and stay in that shape without leaving residue on your hand. The premixed sand and topping mix is too rich and course sand (for me), so adding 10# play sand,which is finer grade sand it works out to be a 1 to 5 ration mix.