Hey all, relativley new to forum but here it goes.. Just failed my first footing inspection. We excavated 42+ inches (her in NJ) ran a plate compactor where forms were to be placed. Footings were 30″ wide (wow) by 12 ” deep. Three horizontal sets of #4 rebar with cross pieces every 16″. We had some rain, but vacumed most out with a wet vac. Inspector pushed rebar rod 4-6 inches deep in a few places. Soil here is clay. 12″ block, four ft crawlspace supporting 1 story addition. Should I use gravel and raise forms,call a soilk engineer in? My reinspection is next tuesday. My whole schedule is messed up, and more rain expected for next few days.I’m looking for the most cost effective solution. Do not want to dissasemble all the rebar. Any help is much appreciated-Pete
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Greetings Pete and Welcome to Breaktime.
Some technical data needed here and by my new response this thread will be moved up to run thru the posting sequence again.
Hopefully it will catch someones eye and you can receive some help.
Hi Pete, Welcome.
I am no expert, in this area anyway, but hopefully my post will help keep the thread current.
Good luck, and pics might help!ADH Carpentry & Woodwork
Quality, Craftsmanship, Detail
Pete-
I've had inspectors here in NJ play that game on numerous occasions. I'd ask them where they found the "stick a rebar into the ground" test, and what constitutes a "passing" inspection. Do so nicely, of course.
Essentially, if the guy leans on the rod applying say, 100 lbs of force, he's focusing that 100# on a rod with an area of approximately 0.2 sq inches. This equates to a soil bearing capacity of approximately 72,000 PSF, which is ridiculous (usually engineers figure on more like 2-4,000 PSF for residential loads.
Most likely, you're going to need to have an engineer certify the footing bottom for you, or rip out the cages, dig out an extra 6" of soil and add stone.
Aren't additions fun? lol
Good luck,
Bob
Bob
thanks for your input. Especially the point about the rebar test. Your absolutly right ; I don't need 72,000 psi. I contacted a few soil engineers, none of whom returned my calls yet. Looks like I'll be digging up 4-6" of muddy clay and replacing it with 3/4 clean stone. Oh well, could be worse; could be frozen. Thanks again-Pete
Pete,
I'd ask the inspector what he wants to see. It's a fair question.
My experience with inspectors has been that most of them are genuinely interested in a good result, and will help you achieve that (within reason, of course)by providing the necessary information to meettheir standards.
My guess is that the rebar has to come out, the mud has to come out, and suitable soil at optimal moisture content needs to be compacted in place.
It's unfortunate, but take heart in the fact that you are definitely not the first person this has happened to. <G>
DRC
Dave,
Thanks for your input. I checked with the architect and he gave me the ok to add 3/4" stone; provided I dig out the mud and maintain 12" of the forms. Guess the rebar has to come out. Thanks-Pete
Before you start taking things apart I would get a second opinion from an engineer on the testing the inspector did and also an opinion on the ground conditions. Do this as quickly as possible my experience is that a compaction test is not really expensive and in the long run it might save you money and time.
pete, this is a easy one, scape the mud, pour extra concrete, be done with it.