Multimaster-What am I doing wrong???
Just recently got the multimaster. I seam to have a problem with this tool. The blades get loose really fast. I tighten up the hold down bolt but it seams to vibrate loose in one minute or less. And I noticed an o-ring on that screw, what does that do? Why do the blades have notches in the center of them and nothing to lock into. An I missing some part or something? Help
Replies
I dunno...sorry. I still don't have one but when I look atthe new ones I see they have a new notch in them so they won't loosen up like some of the old ones seemed to have.
I'm waiting to see what others will say too.
Good luck and Mazel Tov on a new expensive tool : )
Be well
andy
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If it's that bad then you may be using the incorrect bolt for the blade in question.There's at least three different style of bolt/washer combos and it makes a big diff. in you are not using the right one.JT
The notches are for the new model tool with the splined arbor. The blades will work with your Multimaster. Make sure you are using the bolt with the larger washer and tighten it up good. I had the same problem.
Thanks to all that replied...I guess that I am using the wrong bolt and washer. I knew it would be something simple like that. I will give it a try tomorrow.
What crazy things have you guys used the multimaster for???
it also helps to not force the cut, let the blade do the work. For me, only time when the blade starts pivoting is when I'm forcing it
Barry E-Remodeler
I loaned mine to my father who cut the floor pan out of a car with it.
Although he took out about a dozen teeth on the metal cutting blade, the piece he was cutting was so convoluted that no manual tool could have done the job in 10 times the time with so little damage or distortion. He used the floor pan on another car he was restoring.
I just trimmed the steel wall cladding around a 14' X 14' door opening on a steel building with it. (A new, metal cutting blade was installed 1st!) The corrugated sheets would have been a bear to do with tin snips & I didn't have an electric nibbler handy.
My wife has used it with a dulled wood cutting blade installed to cut off a cast. If you hold a dulled blade to your skin with moderate pressure it doesn't cut you.
Make sure you have the hole directly over the arbor, it is easy to misalign them. If it's slightly off when you tighten it, it will loosen up right away. It's a great tool, but the arbor is not the best design. I guess the new ones have splines and is amuch better setup. I had the same problem you having when I first started using it.
It seems counter-intuitive but the cutting blades get mounted 90 degrees to right or left, not straight out. It has to do with the way the tool orbits. I had some difficulty when I was first using the tool, try it.
Bruce
I noticed right off that the instructions with the tool and with the extra blades emphasized to make absolutely certain that you always ut perpendiccular to the axis of the tool like you mention. I don't know if it is for performancce reasons or has something to do with this problem.
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No kidding paul?
I guess I didn't make it to that page.
Straight out works fine.
I'll have to see if there's improvement on the angle.
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I'm one of those rare beings who actually read instructions FIRST, instead of looking to see what went wrong...So I had not tried cutting straight ahead. I still don't know what the reasoning is. I would lose any sleep if I saw somebody utting straight ahead with it, But I would be watching to try and find out if there seems to be a difference
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