I’m planning on nailing hardi up on the old part of my house, with 5/8 t&g siding. I have to hardi manual which tells me it must be into the studs if I want to blind-nail. I could do this, but it would entail getting out the stud finder indside, since the outside is covered with 1″ of ridid foamboard. Has anyone had success in blind nailing into old sheathing and maybe doing it every 8-12 inches? I’ve got a nice nailer, so I’m not worried about a few extra nails. also around window trim it is hard to find a stud. any advice would be greatly appreciated
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Just to clarify, you have 5/8's sheathing and 1" foam on the exterior of your wall?
Find the studs if you have foam.
i think you need 1" of nail into the stud, maybe thats certainteeds siding. Not sure.
Hitting studs helps the nails from blowing throw the siding. When the nail breaks the surface it's not going to hold the siding up.
Find one stud and start looking for layout. No need for a stud finder inside. Maybe start at a corner and pull from there. If the sheathing is 4x8 sheets then it has to have some sort of layout.
Woods favorite carpenter
Edited 1/9/2008 9:04 pm ET by MattSwanger
I attended a Hardi Installation seminar sponsored by Hardi, put on by Hardi and Hardi instructors were doing the talking.
They specifically told us that Lap Siding could be nailed to 1/2" osb and NOT HIT THE STUDS. I specifically re-asked them and they reaffirmed that. I specifically asked them if using galvanized roofing nails was sufficient because I was concerned about nails blowing too deep if the stud was missed. The specifically told me that using a roofing nails, into 1/2" osb was an approved method of installation.
Things might have changed since then.
The most common mistake that installers make is nailing too high. Installers tend to nail a little higher than recommended to avoid "shiners" peeking out from under the lap. This results in floppy siding.
We know from experience that lap siding will stay tight on OSB because we installed a lot of the stuff on truss gable that are 24" oc with the framing. Yes we hit the studs when possible but it helps to get extra nails at 8" oc too even if they only hit osb.
I would find the stud and hit each one, then add the extras inbetween if I didn't feel like 16" was solid enough. The head size on the nails is most critical in many situations.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
thanks all for your help. It's true according to hardi that this can be done, but in my materials it says you must face nail it and go 12" o.c. if you are not going to hit the studs. I would think the presenters you heard would have mentioned that, unless they now approve it. the reason I question this application it that my old 1950's sheathing seems a lot more dense than osb and is 5/8 instead of 3/8. I do have a reps number, so I will call.
agree that it is best to hit the studs, I just don't want to run into problems if I sometimes can't find them. Anyone who has worked with it knows that its extremely heavy.
"but in my materials it says you must face nail it and go 12" o.c. if you are not going to hit the studs."
that seems to be what I recall at the hardi seminar I went to at JLC show.
what you said sounds right. about View Image View Image
I would call your local hardie rep just to make sure but I think you would be fine. But I would try to find the studs. One you figure out the direction, they should be every 16 oc then doubles around windows, doors, etc.
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/exterior/siding/replace1/fiber_cement/install.htm
Check out the link above. good read