Project – 1200 sf of unfinished maple T&G strip flooring, 3/4″ thick.
Should I be using staples or nails and why? Subfloor is 3/4″ Advantech over I-joists 16″ o.c. The subfloor will have staple-up radiant tubing, which I plan to install after the finish flooring is in.
Also – any particular preference for a floor nailer? I plan on buying a used air nailer for the project, looking at Bostitch or Porter-Cable since it’s easy to get nails for them and they are “name brands”.
Replies
I've used "L" head nails or cleats and staples. I've also torn up floors put down with both. They both hold very well and, IMO, are equally difficult to remove. I like the Bostitch air stapler, mine is model 111, and the Powernails air driver for the cleats. I've got both drivers and use whatever the flooring mfg'er says to use. Given my choice I usully go to the stapler because the driver is more comfortable for me.
JonE,
I really like the Powernailer (can't remember model) air assisted, 2 inch powercleats. I used a manual for years, but the air assist is great. You can work safer close to walls, nail from any position, easy on the shoulder, etc.
The air assisted model does pull in just as well as the manual in my opinion.
Fz
JonE
Maple might be too hard for staples.
I learned this the hard way.
Ron
Well, it's technically "soft" maple (silver maple is the species), but even so, any maple is pretty hard stuff.
I guess I'll get whatever is cheaper at the point in time I need it.
JonE
You should be able to staple soft maple successfully. Generally, I prefer staples, but some wood is just too hard.
Ron
I've never used a stapler to lay a floor, so I can't speak to their virtues.
With nails, I've layed a lot of solid plank floor with both a manual Porta-nailer and a pneumatic Porter Cable (which, unlike a lot of Porter Cable air tools, is of high quality) and is so similar to the Porta-nailer pneumatic that I suspect it's the same animal.
I love the pneumatic and usually let my helper use the manual if the floor is big. And the pneumatic will drive the plank as tight as the manual with a lot less effort.
Maple can be a tough go at times, in my experience, because edgeset is more common than with a lot of other species and often requires opposing wedges or a variety of other methods to pull a plank tight enough to nail off.
I would think that the cleated nails might have a little more holding power than a staple in those situations (just my suspicion).
I've never had much problem with splitting the tongues....it will happen on occasion, but the only time it effects fitting the next plank is when I haven't planted the shoe on the nailer squarely and the nail doesn't quite enter the root of the tongue. When this happens, I always carry a nail set when laying floors and it just takes a few seconds to punch the offending nail on through, trim the tongue if necessary and move on.
Years ago, I rented a floor nailer occasionally and had a lot of jams and other problems....finally bought my own, take care of them, don't loan them out, and I've never regretted the purchase, even though, like my tile saw and transit and a few other specialty tools, they may be idle for long periods....and then busy for several jobs in a row.