My ugly 70’s home has 3 panels of glass set between studs, in colored glass like the sidelites of yor. Pure puke green and gold glass. Each panel is 10 feet tall!
The glass in these is 5 foot sections, and are joined by H channel in the middle. The glass company wants a solid opening, and the original wood was a true 2 by 6 inches, not dimensional.
Where to find true 2 x 6 stock? Should I use fir, oak, maple, etc? These will go horizontally to break the 10 foot height into 5 foot sections. How to set them? Screws?
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Any lumber mills near you?--they could probably sell you some real 2" x 6" boards of whatever wood you want. Otherwise you could buy like 2x8 (nominal) and rip down to 6" and fir out a half inch with plywood to get the full 2".
Hi etherhuffer,
Got a pic or two?......I can probably come up with a better idea after seeing it.
here ya gohttp://www.etherhuffer.typepad.com
I see no need for that to be a true 2x6. Diff size produces a reveal that would be beneficial. With it flush full size on the interior, you wonder what faces it like the casing does the rest of the frame.I'd also want the glass people to detail exactly how to do the dado so it will not leak and rot. What is their reason for avoiding the H-slice? Have you sought a second opinion?
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Well, they have not ruled it out completely, but its hard t find a thin vinyl H channel for a double pane. Ideas?http://www.etherhuffer.typepad.com
How thin? They make some for Lexan Greenhouse panels, and also Aluminum H that I've seen. The Lexan is clear IIRC.
I'd start looking at Rescource Conservation Technology site
http://www.consevationtechnology.com under gaskets, glazing or similar.
The 2x6 is a no brainer, any real hardwood lumber supplier should have rough 10/4 or surfaced 8/4 in many species. I can get some softwoods like Cypress and sugar pine in those thicknesses , walnut, cherry and ash are more easily found.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I think Outwater has it in plastic and stainless steel.I had thought maybe they were concerned for the weight of the upper bearing on the lower I am curious how it will all go togehter in place myself. If I were ading the dadoed millwork, I would prefer to havce the old demoed so I can rabbet the new center into the existing frame, and then get it all painted ands sealed befored adding the glass. obviously, that greats time and seurity/weather concerns
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I think this will be a job where we pull the old stops and glass, and then clean up the opening with sanding, check for rot, then seal up. Then install with a load of sillycone. I am not sure about the weight of one window sitting above the other on a piece of U channel. That is why they suggested we go across with matching lumber to make all 4 sides solid for the upper and two distinct openings, one over the other, to get a good seal. The look inside would be a little chunkier, but if its white trim, not so big a deal.http://www.etherhuffer.typepad.com
Hi etherhuffer,
Well I'm outside my box as usual - In sticking with the contemporary design of the house but bringing it up to todays feel....I would use 3 panes of insulated Low-E glazing and make the frames out of 1x2 strips of white oak glued up like a mini gluelam beam/butcher block alternating and straightening the crown as you progress.
On the outside I'd bevel the bottom piece to shed water, prime and paint everything with top grade white to blend with the current outside trim.
Inside, I'd trim the face with more white oak and route something like an ogee profile and then simply use water based poly to finish, no stain. This will contrast nicely with any other white trim as it may be and will be a real piece of artwork.Pedro the Mule - Where's the box?
We have a white trim and bamboo floor design, but we are late in the game with the windows, so I asked the spouse about using bamboo like your oak and she nixed that for white. But that is a good idea for wood wrapped windows and a clean look. http://www.etherhuffer.typepad.com
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