was planning on being in bed by now …
was also planning on having some clean/dry jeans for work tomorrow.
Looks like the dryer … gas dryer … Frigidaire Gallery fgd747des1 …
runs … it’ll fool ya into thinking it’s drying things in there …
just doesn heat.
I took the vent off and made sure it was free and clear.
poped the top of the thing and had no idea what to look at … saw the big drum spin around …
found a small access panel on the lower/back … opened then …
hit restart … looked in … saw a nice orange glow somewhere up front …
then … coupla seconds later … the glow died.
so … I’m guessing it runs …. fires(ignites) … then the flame dies.
so … nothings changed around it for years … so the air flow “should” still be enough to support a nice hot flame.
I opened the door to make it stop … hit restart … about 5 times …
each time … fired again them dies.
thinking the “igniter” is good? Good enough to light it …
doesn’t get hot enough for the duct to get warm … I’d guess there’s some overheat sensor in there somewhere …
so what’s next?
and … how the hell do I get to the “firebox”?
Looks to me like I’d have to turn it over and unscrew the bottom .. from the bottom … and lift off the whole “top” … sides/top and all? Gotta be missing something there …
how do I get to the “fire box” … to see what is and isn’t firing?
alreayd went to the appliance ninja … posted this there ..
looked at a coupla other repair sites … no info on “how to” …
and I couldn’t even get to the parts at this point even if I knew which ones to replace!
Help …
btw … furnace turned on high … jeans hanging behind the bathroom door … right above the vent … that’s where the hottest air in the hosue flows to … hope it does the trick by tomorrow.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Replies
Poke in the dark here.....you haven`t installed a new gas fireplace in your home of late have you? Upgraded the water heater?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Nope!
nothings changed since last week 'cept I got cold/wet jeans ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
city gas supply or propane bottle? - orange glow might be electronic igniter, not actual flame - just a thought
sounds like either a bad gas valve solenoid,or an open in the solenoid harness,.....which includes the igniter.... that glows
city supplied natural gas.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It actually sounds like you may have a bad igniter. It will still glow, but there won't be enough juice to allow the gas vlv to open. And i am thinking that you should be able to pop the top up, take a few sheet metal screws out and the front should pull forward and then lift out.
Some models have a air switch so they won't kick on the gas until air is moving.
It's a little flapper somewhere in the air flow duct.
I know it's a stupid question but did ya loosen the flex nut to see if you have gas?
Happened to me. Probably bad gas valve or solenoid within the gas valve. Access is from the lower panel on the front. Call a repair guy. The glow is the igniter.
Does it have a flame sensor, usually a 1/8" rod that is in the flame just past the ignitor. Unplug and remove it and sand it clean with emery or similiar and reinstall. If it is getting flame then goes out, then it's a sensor. Keith
OK .... took a better look at it tonight ....
finally figured how to get the front off ... ya gotta take off the whole damn front!
anyways ... now it's nice and open to look at ...
cycled it again ... hadn't yet pulled the gas line to smell ... but ...
watched with it open .... saw the thick metal bar ... igniter? ... glow orange ...
then ... coupla seconds later ... we had ignition. Nice gas fire burning down the tube ...
maybe 5 or so seconds later ... flame went out. No "poof" ... no noise .... not like it blew itself out ... just died as nicely as it lit.
the igniter ... if that's what it's called ... tried to glow again ... first time ... not so bright ... second or two more ... tried again ... looked bright enough to light something ... but then it went cold ... this happened a coupla times ina row.
the metal would get orange hot for a brief second ... then cool down.
Haven't pulled it all apart yet ... hope to have time this weekend. I'll check for the flame sensor ... just steel wool'd the flame sensor in out furnace coupla weeks ago. So far so good on that fix ...
will check to see if the dryer has one ... but didn't see one from the outside.
Any new thots with my additional info?
Thanks to all for helping.
Just told the wife ... OK, before U go and see it all torn apart ... let's remember it was broken "before" I got the screw driver out ....
I feel much betetr about my odds at fixing it now ...
gonna google a parts place for a nice diagram. Can't find any papers for the thing ... whole stack for the washer ... nothing with the dryer. That'll at least get me the right names for the parts ...
JeffView Image
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Edited 12/14/2005 11:12 pm ET by JeffBuck
Flame sensor, $40 part....local or repairclinic.com Get after it Buck.
Parents gave me there 3 year old washer and dryer to store or dispose of a month ago(they get the latest and greatest so my sister and I get the spoils often) I left them sit in the shop for a day, when my wife said can you hook them up in our house in addition to what we have? Well sure I guess...says I....now with 2 washers and 2 dryers she gets twice as much done in 1/2 the time, and less up and down the steps........plus if something breaks..I have a bit of time to fix. More time for hokey pokey too...it's a win-win. I'm a giver.heheheh
Sheer genius!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
what do ya know about "bad coils" ...
cost around $35 on the ninja repair site.
That's what they're telling me I need ...
might have time tomorrow to look and see if there's a flame sensor ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Judging from your description, you have an HSI (hot surface igniter) that is no longer a viable component in the ignition system. HSIs glow/get hot when current passes thru them because they are resistance devices. The current passes thru and the dropped voltage passing thru it then arrives at the main gas valve where that dropped voltage must be within certain prescribed parameters ( a limited range) or the main gas valve won't recognize that the HSI is actually glowing (being capable of igniting the gas) ……..and consequently won't open to allow gas into the main burner. <!----><!----><!---->
While a fractured HSI element or an open circuit from a broken supply wire wouldn't allow the HSI to heat at all and so wouldn't allow the gas valve to open, a glowing HSI is no guarantee that the voltage to the gas valve is within the necessary parameters.
The HSI continues to glow the entire time the burner is firing because it's the voltage from this device that not only opens the gas valve for the initial burner ignition, but also holds the gas valve open the entire time there is a call for heat. This is the safety system that prevents gas from flowing without an assured source of ignition. <!----><!---->
The resistive characteristics of the HSI element change over time as it is repeatedly heated and will eventually arrive at a point where the current passing thru will no longer fall within the required parameters……….even though the HSI is visibly glowing.
It sounds like your is so close to the brink that the voltage falls within the necessary parameters just long enough to allow the gas valve to open briefly and then as the HSI heats a bit further (just a few seconds longer), the resistance of the HSI increases to a point where it is now outside the parameters and so the gas valve closes. Then you're witnessing the pre-programmed attempts at re-ignition, which fail because of latent heat in the HIS. After a few attempts the main gas valve flips into "lock-out" in which no further attempts are allowed for a prescribed period (frequently somewhere around 30-45 minutes), and/or until a reset button is pushed. <!----><!---->
If it was mine, I'd pull the HSI and replace it……. based on your description of symptoms. You should be able to find a replacement from a local appliance store (take the old one along) or you could get a new one from Grainger's or Johnstone Supply if you have an account at either.
All the flame rod sensor systems I'm familiar with use a very small HSI to ignite a pilot flame, which then proves itself to the main gas valve via that flame rod sensor (immersed in the pilot flame). If the HSI you see glowing under there is larger than say ½" and you don't see a pilot being ignited before the main burner ignited……….then I doubt you have this type of ignition system. <!----><!---->
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 12/15/2005 11:54 pm ET by goldhiller
And here I thought all you knew about was paint!!!
Heck, if I hung around this planet all this long without learning more than that......I'd qualify as a slacker. <G>Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Hell ... ya just talked me into trying that first!
screw those coils ...
off to the appliance parts store tomorrow ...
will report back with said results.
Thanks to all ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Handle the one yo8u remove like it was a very fragile eggshell......because the element is very fragile/brittle. The slightest tap and the HSI element will be broken. This precaution, just in case it isn't actually the HSI at fault here. Then you'll still have a replacement element when the HSI does indeed give up the ghost.......and it will eventually. They all do.
You might well find yourself shelling out $35 locally for what you could buy at Grainger's or Johnstone's for $15. Your call. Maybe you know someone who does have an account at the aforementioned.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
my account at Grainger should still be active ...
I'll check with them first.
Thanks again ... my plan ... replace that igniter first ...
then ... if she still ain't right ... order the coils the appliance site is recommending.
Might just go ahead and get both at the same time ... rebuild it while it's open.
still cheaper than a new dryer ... and ... the two most likely candidates for failure will be brand new again ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I remembered this morning having encountered a uniquely (for me anyway) faulty HSI a few years back that exhibited the same basic symptoms you're describing. It had developed the tiniest little crack thru the element itself that would still make connection when the thing was cold, but once the element began heating and expanding, that crack would open..........breaking the flow of current thru the element and so the gas valve would close. Dang near needed a magniifying glass to see the crack when the element was cold.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.