We are investigating window specs before choosing a contractor to install siding and replacement windows. The Certainteed web site provides straightforward data of R, U, solar heat gain, etc. and was our first choice. However, one contractor has proposed Sunrise Windows with Omega 12 glass which claims to have higher specs than Certainteed…so much more that I question if true comparisons are possible. But the Sunrise web site has less technical information available for verification.
Certainteed gives total unit U value as .34 (1/U = R) and R calculated as 2.94. The center of glass U value is .24 and R calculates to 4.17. The Sunrise contractor tells me they have a U of .2 and R of 10…But that doesn’t calculate! Both claim to be NFRC (National Fenestration Ratings Council) certified. Sunrise from Michigan has been in window business since 1994… and Certainteed since 1979. Who should I choose? Is the Sunrise spec a true claim and worth $3,350 more? Has anybody out there had any experience with these window companies?
Replies
You will never recover the costs of window installation through energy savings. Not yet, anyway.
I'll be the first to step in and say that shopping by specs alone is a quick trip to disaster.
Pick the windows based on manufacturer quality first, installer quality and service second, aesthetics third, and performance last.
Or better yet, build new ones yourself and install 'em yourself and know exactly what you're getting.
where are you?
what is your long tem objective for the house?
If I wanted to be in the house long-tem, I wouldn't use a vinyl window (my region)
check out the warranty, transfer of warranty, availability of repair parts, service from mfg., etc. Performance rating aren't the only factor.
We're located in central Illinois. Cold winters and hot summers...it got down to -10 this winter and will get to upper 90's sometime this summer. We have Anderson double-hung vinyl clad wood now. The house was built in the early 70's and we have gone through a couple of cycles of refinishing the interior sides already. That's why we're looking at going full vinyl...less maintenance. We also have an issue with wind leakage and so are looking at casements for a better seal as well as ease of opening. (No lifting.) We're in mid-60's age wise and plan to stay here for the duration until something unexpected (or expected eventually!) happens. Anyway, I'm getting to the point where I'd rather spend my time doing something more enjoyable than climbing ladders and varnishing.
Woodie,
Listen my friend, you've got some excellent windows in your home. It would be a minor crime to replace them. Even if you did, you'd still have wood trim on the inside.
Regarding the difficulty in opening the windows...here's Andersen's web site. When you get there, click on service. That will take you through a few questions and help solve the problem. If that doesn't work, give them a call. They'll be happy to answer any questions, I'm sure.
http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite/AW/Page/awLanding-2/1102951371015
Maybe the finish on your interior trim wasn't the best of the period when the windows were install. Polyurethane varnish was fairly new on the market in those days so maybe your trim didn't get the good stuff. I do know that today's interior polyurethane finishes, applied correctly, will stand up for many years. In any event if you want to re-insulate and reseal those windows, you should remove the window casing, the trim pieces around the window. At that point you can fill the void with one or another type of insulation, foam or fiberglass for example, and decide if you want to refinish the original casing or start fresh with some unfinished stock.
Best wishes, Peter
Also check out the Andersen retrofit sash kits. Someone here turned me onto them. New sashes and compression jambs that retro fit right into existing Andersen frames. My local lumberyard helped me order mine and I got the prefinished wood frames. Advantages? As I see it, I can do the retrofit myself pretty easily. I can do ALL of the work from inside the house. I am told 30 minutes per window. Low E double pane glass. And while not as inexpensive as other replacement windows, I did not find the price overly high for a quality window. Someone here also mentioned Marvin replacement sashes. I looked at them as well but went with Andersen's since that is what I had already and the process was a little simpler that way. Disadvantages? I haven't ACTUALLY installed any of them yet. They are on order. Ask me in a month how I like them- I should have some installed by then.
Edited 3/30/2007 2:39 pm ET by frontiercc2
I wish I lived closer to you-
Not even Anderson makes windows of the quality you have anymore.!
Switching to Casements is great for the reasons you state especially if you have the cash and dont want to update or repair what you have. As far as Casements go and for full vinyl you definately want the Simonton windows. IF you go with another company find an existing installation thats at least 10 years old and try the windows out. Most windows, expecially the glass seals are designed to survive fine the first decade, then seals start to dry out and fogging between panes begins and lifting mechanisms fail, need adjusting, gears strip out etc. Also, you could end up with condensation on the inside glass in winter if your house is too humid and the windows are highly efficient. Talk to friends and neighbors in your area and ask to see thier windows. I live in East Central Fla and all we get is heat. Great weather now though, haven't run the AC in months! Kids went swimmin the other day. Cant imagine living in snow country.
Woodie,
http://www.milgard.com
I installed Milgard insulated glass, single hung vinyl replacement windows in my parent's 1950's southwestern stucco ranch tract home a few years ago. They've proved to be very satisfactory.
Removing the old sash and installing the new windows was very straight forward, just simple mechanics. Very little skill and only a few tools involved. It was possible to do the job without disturbing life in the house. Each window required about one-two hours of careful attention. Almost all the work was done from inside the house. As I was in no hurry, I did a couple of them each day, usually completing one room.
There were sixteen windows. After measuring the openings, I called several nearby dealers, listed on the Milgard site, then faxed them my list of measurements. The lowest bid was about three thousand dollars. Had we contracted with one of the dealers for installation, it would have added about one hundred dollars per unit to the price.
I will make it easy for you, I used to sell windows- You could just save yourself time and effort and buy Simonton Windows (just not from Sears or Home Depot they charge wayyyyyyyyyyyy to much) or follow the following instructions.
MOST IMPORTANT!!!! NEVER BELIEVE THE SALESMAN- HE IS THERE TO SELL YOU!!!!
Consider this, the best windows are built the same as the cheapest ones with a few exceptions. Make sure the sash is snug in the frame, make sure the window seals are high quality and seal properly. If your AC is leaking out the windows it dont matter how good they are. Plant a Tree to block direct sun light and or use window film to reflect heat.
If I was to buy windows I would decide Price range ie High end, Mid and Low and I would consider how long I would be in the house. Not alot of money lyin around and only in house 5 years or less- single pane alluminum with tint and great seals. Over 5 years find windows you like as far as style and price and then follow these rules:
1st Vinyl- make sure its fresh, no recycled products mixed in. it should also be extruded thick with many air chambers, the best have 13 chambers the cheapest have 7.
2nd IGU- insulated glass unit preferably with "intercept spacer" and warm edge technology. stay away from wiggle spacer types. Tin coated steel spacer with butyl rubber seals will last the longest. Double strength glass with Low E coating, stay away from triple pane and Krypton gass, Argon is the best. Make sure the Argon is 95% and not 35% this will affect the U value. Low E affects the r value. Spacer should be 1/2" and glass unit should be set into the sash 3/4".
3rd Everything else- Seals should be bulb and compression not just milar fin weatherstripping. the sash should overlap and interlock. The bottom sash should not extend above uppersash to conceal lock keeper. lock should be cam style and have its own closed back keeper. Tilt latches should be low profile. Sill should have flat area for bottom sash to sit and seal, a sloped area for water runoff and another area for the screen.
4th Ratings- NFRC website will explain their ratings go for the best. also gold seal not siver or other from AAMA, also certified against forced entry. make sure you also order according to local wind codes for coastal residents.
Peachtree is an excellent manufacturer as is Gorell. Lowes sells Thermastar from Pella which aint bad as long as you order them correctly, dont fall for thier install either though. All companies will make claims putting thier product in favorable light and all others to shame. All companies make crappy windows and top of the line ones.
Its amazing how much direct heat a full screen blocks also.
Thinking about purchasing a Gorell double hung about 3' x 3' In a terratone color. What do you know about the color part of their line ? The sales person says 160.00 bucks extra for that color. Sounds like a lot just for a color. $560.00 TOTAL PRICE & I'LL BE INSTALL IT. Something about extruding color over white ????
Where would one by these Simonton windows in Michigan area ?