Replies

1. 
   Joe_Hennessey | Feb 21, 2001 09:32am | #1

   *
   Frank, looks like nobody figgered out what you are asking. I'm guessing maybe this is what you're after? Joe H

   http://webx.taunton.com/WebX?128@@.eeef3af or maybe this

   http://webx.taunton.com/WebX?128@@.ee9c274

1. 
   WOOD_TICK | Feb 21, 2001 07:53pm | #2

   *What's the application? Roof to wall relationship? I've done a couple of curved eave projects and have a bit of intrest in the subject.

1. 
   Joseph_Fusco | Feb 22, 2001 12:48am | #3

   *Frank,

   Are you looking for something like this?

   © 1999-2001"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

1. 
   Frank_Rotte | Feb 23, 2001 02:44pm | #4

   *Thanks for the responses. This is the look I'm after.

1. 
   GACC_DAllas | Feb 24, 2001 03:53am | #5

   *Frank,Let me see if I can make this work with words.First you bob tail the rafters. (Cut them flush with the exterior wall). Then you add on you lookout tails cut with the radius curve of your choice. Then you deck down the rafters within about a foot or so of the lookouts with 3/4" ply and finish up the curve with 1x2's to follow the curve. If you want to use 5/8" decking, then just surface plane down the 1x's to 5/8". You might get by with a 1x4 width depending on how radical your curve is. As far as figuring out the hips and valleys..........you're on your own just like the rest of us. It's a scribing kind of thing.I hope this helps,Ed. Williams

2. 
   Boss_Hog | Feb 24, 2001 02:21pm | #6

   *I did some trusses this way once. We ran the bottom chord straight out, and plated a 2X12 onto it at a slightly shallower pitch than the roof. After they were built, the 2X12s were cut in an arc to form the curved tails. I did some half-round trusses once using basically the same technique. The truss was built in short segments of 2X12, then cut in a 7' 6" radius after they were built. Like I always say - Trusses are the answer to all your problems..............(-:

3. 
   Stephen_Hazlett | Feb 24, 2001 07:33pm | #7

   *Hey Ed, I have seen a few done pretty much the way you describe.The rafter tails were left exposed and the curved deck was done in narrow beadboard.Really cool effect.

4. 
   WOOD_TICK | Mar 01, 2001 08:31pm | #8

   *Holy sheathing batman. 3/4" ply? Time for a barn dance! :) I hadn't run into having to use dimensional lumber for sheathing yet but, if it works - do it. When the situation calls for it, I usually double layer sheets, say 1/4" to match up with 1/2". The way I tackle this, a couple variables should be thought out first. Main roof pitch, vaulted ceiling?, rafter material, eave depth desired, and any exterior details ie., facia size/type, soffit, frieze board(in respect to window head height and trim). What I usually do is 'snap-out' a full scale wall and roof elevation/schematic on the deck before wall plates are even cut to make sure all variables will work then making notes and or changes to specific items to make sure I can get the curve/radius to work and plane in correctly to both main roof and facia. Doing so with a piece of scrap sheathing over the area with the curved rafters gives me a template to cut out and use. Good luck with the wife Frank...... if a smile and nod hasn't been tried yet, give it a shot.. Oh wait! that didn't work for me.

5. 
   Tony_Ferrito | Mar 02, 2001 02:31am | #9

   *Frank, To me the picture looks like two flat roof planes with a minimal curve at the transition. The two slopes are close enough that you could get away with framing and sheathing into the intersection and laying two clapboards with their thick edges at the intersection one tapering up and the other down. Once you get some nice thick architectural shingles or cedar over it the transition will look smooth from the ground. If you live in snow country make sure your ice&water shield goes at least 18" up past the transition, as this will be a great place for snow to accumulate. If your are looking for a longer curve, then you will need to cut some curved transitions and sheath with two layers of thinner plywood. Seems I remember a most excellent article recently in FHB. Search the past issues and get a hold of that article, It was top notch in both techniques and presentation. Let us know how it turns out. -Tony

6. 
   Greg_Warren | Mar 02, 2001 04:42am | #10

   *That's issue 119, page 77. Full details to fabricate a curved eave, framing through roof sheathing.

2. 
   Frank_Rotte | Mar 02, 2001 04:42am | #11

   *
   I am in the process of designing an "Old World" style home but am in need of construction details for a curved eave. Has anybody had any experience with these? I've been a carpenter for 28 years and haven't done a curved eave before. It's my wife's idea. Help!!!!!!!!