Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 07:32am | #1

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   chuckmac,

   Our truss manufacturer usually supplies a detail sheet outlining bracing requirements, but your best source will probably be your local building inspector. He's the guy that has to pass it anyway. Don't skimp on the temp bracing as you go. I read in the paper the other week about two guys getting hurt bad when a whole line went domino on them. Looked at the pic and sure enough couldn't see a trace of bracing. As far as the ladder goes the gable truss is often spec'd as a "drop" truss the pitch is identical to the others but the height of the top chord is subtracted. After you set them you construct the ladder by nailing back into the top chord of the second truss and cantilevering it over the gable truss.
   Interesting to note that the manufacturers specs say it is acceptable to set the trusses up to something like 2" inches out of plumb. Needless to say I don't do that and wouldn't recommend it.
   Make sure you raise and carry them straight not flat or you'll pop the plates off and/or weaken the connections. And for a 40' span a crane with a skilled operator would be a good idea.Hope this helps.

   Richard Max

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   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 07:34am | #2

   *Chuck,The truss plants we buy from always ship a drawing showing where, how many and what size bracing is required. This is supposed to be a roof framing "system", not just a collection of trussed lumber.As for the gable ladders, assuming that you have the capability to raise the whole deal (like with a crane) you should sheathe the gable trusses, attach the ladders, even the rake boards.It's a hell of lot more efficient to nail off all this stuff on the ground than in the air.Good luck.

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   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 07:09am | #3

   *ditto the dropped gable truss. i have used them before and they are a lot more solid than building a ladder and nailing to the end truss. also the gable truss is framed to accept your sheating or siding instead of having a web design. they cost about $100 more each here but save labor and provide for a better/stronger overhang

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   Guest_ | Jun 25, 1999 07:38am | #4

   *ChuckBe carefull to store the trusses on flat ground if you are not flying them into place right away. We once had to walk off a job for nonpayment and came back to trusses that took on the shape of the ground. It was real tough to set them. We cut a bunch of 2x6 blocks at 22 7/16" to put between the trusses. One guy fastens the truss at each wall. A third guy works the ridge. After a truss is set the blocks are installed at the two walls and ridge. The next truss goes to the blocks. You may need more blocks because of the span.I try to fly the sheathing up while the crane is there. We snap the line. Lay 2 or 3 sheets of ply and then set the ply on site made plywood jacks.The latest truss company we have been using specs out all the hangers and sends them with the trusses. Saves me the brain damage from talking with the engineer.The drop truss for the gable walls are the best way to go if the ceiling is flat. On most of the houses I frame scissor trusses are used. I prefer to stick frame the gable. Some guys still use the drop tops. It just seems kind of weak.

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   new_south | Jul 18, 1999 12:32am | #5

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   the next time you purchase trusses have the manufacturer drop the 2 gables 3.5 inches 2by4"s on the edge nailed to next truss over makes for strong system

3. 
   chuckmac | Jul 18, 1999 12:32am | #6

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   I will be setting trusses on a 40 ft wide building. The pitch is 5-12. I need to know how many spacing boards to install and where to locate them. Also proper bracing techniques.

   I also need to know the best way to construct the cornice ladder. Do I install it on the truss before it is raised or put it on after the truss is set. I would really like to find a link to get some graphic illustrations on bracing and ladder building techniques. Any help would be appreicated.