FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Need ideas for a gate to control water

nickjandrews | Posted in General Discussion on December 14, 2006 07:22am

Hello all,

I need some creative ideas on how to build a double swing gate. It will need to hold water back out of a driveway while still being able to swing inward. The homeowners are only there part-time and want some peace of mind.

This summer, we had a lot of rain, and their entire front yard got flooded with mud up to and including half of their garage. So the plan is to build a low (2′) rock wall around the front and side of the corner lot with a double inswing gate for the driveway, also about 2′ tall. There will be a slot drain in front of the gate to catch some water, along with one at the bottom end of the driveway at the house, with drainage swales to carry the runoff to the existing drainage easements at the back of the property.

Now these are a little older people, so the gates need to be easily operable and not too heavy. Not a lot of weight loading and they don’t have to be a complete seal, just enough to keep it from flooding down their driveway again. I am thinking there needs to be a crossbar, something like on an old castle door, and maybe some vertical sliders that will lock into holes in the concrete apron to help resist force of water. We may even end up with a slot in the concrete with clips on the gates to hole a piece of plywood against the gate.

See pics. Any ideas?

Reply

Replies

  1. DaveRicheson | Dec 14, 2006 08:19pm | #1

    Nick, please fill in your profile, at least your location.

    IMO you are trying to create a dam that can be moved out of the way when not needed. Don't think I have ever heard of that. Maybe some of the guys in the nortwest can help you out, or someone from huricane areas.

     

    Dave

  2. nailbanger | Dec 14, 2006 08:45pm | #2

    Nick:

    My first thought would be to fashion a slight "lip" in the driveway and then have the gate close against that but you said that you wanted it to be able to swing in. That might not be all that easy or desirable. I think that I would set the gate back from the end of the driveway about a car length and a half, so that the car would not have to be left in the road while the gate was being operated and there would still be room for the gate swing and then I'd go with an outswing. The only other thought would be some sort of rolling or sliding gate that would ride in a channel or groove in the drive. Water exerts one heck of a lot of force (especially when its full of mud!) and I'd be afraid that without any sort of a strong support mechanism, it will simply get pushed out of the way or at least moved enough that the water would just drive around it.

    As I think about it more, a sliding or rolling gate might be the best because it would still work even if mud built up against the outside of it. I'm just not sure how yould make it watertight enough. A heavy brush or rubber sweep maybe?

    BILL

    1. nickjandrews | Dec 14, 2006 09:04pm | #4

      Hi Bill,I had considered a roller, but am concerned about the weight as the clients age. Might be easier to have a rubber flap on it though that would drag on the front side of the gate as a seal... Then some vertical support bars that would slide down into pockets to resist the water's force. I guess we could do a hydrologic analysis to estimate the amount of water, but that would be a lot of work for a simple gate. Like I said, it needs to be affordable! Thanks.Nick Andrews"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759

      1. migraine | Dec 16, 2006 01:18am | #20

        It seems to me that the owners are concerned about letting water in, but what about  getting rid of it once it gets in?

        If you put a 19 " berm/wall/whatever, and you have 20" runoff, your screwed.

        I think Andy has said it best.  Get the water away from the property with drainage chanels/cattle guards before it gets too close.

        First I would be addressing the issue of why the house(s) are lower than the roads (DUHHH!)

  3. hasbeen | Dec 14, 2006 08:50pm | #3

    Is that a palo verde tree in the pic? Thought you must be in AZ.

    Depending on where you are you may need to do some checking before you build anything. My understanding is that you are not supposed to change how storm water enters or leaves the property.

    How about a low, wide berm that the owners could just drive up and over? Probably be less expensive that a gate and more reliable, too.

    "Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd."

    ~ Voltaire

    1. nickjandrews | Dec 14, 2006 09:21pm | #5

      I think that is a desert willow tree. Palo Verde trees do grow around here, though. We are in Las Cruces, NM. Actually, this water is coming onto their property. As long as we direct it to the drainage easements it will be okay. With all the rain this year, flooding has been a major concern of late. A lot of the areas in this neighborhood could have used better drainage design, to be sure! But I will not comment on other engineers specifically...that would be wrong.Nick Andrews"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759

      1. dovetail97128 | Dec 14, 2006 09:25pm | #6

        My opinion, build a "water bar" like a speed bump in the driveway to divert the water to drainage on either side and skip the gate.

      2. Piffin | Dec 15, 2006 01:02am | #9

        "it needs to be affordable! "You want to stop and divert tons of water and mud, but do it lightweight, and no waffordable too?The impossible always costs more money.do they just want you to do a apssable attempt at this or do they want you to gaurantee that it wioll work? 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. nickjandrews | Dec 15, 2006 01:34am | #11

          Well, I think they want something that will work. We aren't talking about six feet of water and mud here. The clients don't feel safe with just a hump in driveway, as was suggested before and we had considered. They just called and the width is 17.5' and we are looking at about 2' high.By affordable I mean we can't use those floating popup walls like commercial properties have. But something a local fabricator can build is feasible, I think. I like the rolling gate better than the swing gate idea.Besdies, with engineering and enough concrete and steel, nothing is impossible. Although it might not be affordable!Nick Andrews"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759

          1. User avater
            SamT | Dec 15, 2006 06:58am | #16

            Nick,

            I used to irrigate in the Imperial Valley. I just got one thing to say.

            Fuggetaboutit.

            2' Of fast moving water and mud. Filled with debris. Cheap lite gate.

            Bwahahaha

            Well two things.

            Berm. Big berm.SamT

            Now if I could just remember that I am a businessman with a hammer and not a craftsman with a business....."anonymous". . .segundo <!----><!----> 

          2. User avater
            CapnMac | Dec 15, 2006 09:03pm | #19

            They just called and the width is 17.5' and we are looking at about 2' high.

            Yeah, a 30" "hump" is just not going to "look" like a barrier.

            Sure does seem to me, though, that a "hump" is going to be easier to run a front-end loader over to clear mud/debris/etc. from than a moving structure.

            I suspect that there may be two things here, too.  They want a gate for security, they also want to not have a flooded yard.  What that suggests to me is an entry drive that is gated, with a flood control hump/wall/swale what have you a car-length separated from the security gate.

            My vote would be for gate, then flood control.  Why?  Logically, you gate to the property line, and control the water where you are allowed to.  Secondly, a flood comes, it can carry off the gate, but the property does not flood--the debris will give security in that case, like as not.

            Now, if gate as floodgate must be entertained, consider a rolling gate--but the other way.  That is, one that rolls from flat to upright to be closed.  With a bit of counter-balancing, this could then even be powered up, which allows for some fail safing (no power = closed gate).

            Just 2¢ from some one who has seen the water come in a roaring, evil, brown, ravaging beast on a otherwise dry day.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          3. QCInspector | Dec 16, 2006 02:38am | #21

            "Now, if gate as floodgate must be entertained, consider a rolling gate--but the other way. That is, one that rolls from flat to upright to be closed. With a bit of counter-balancing, this could then even be powered up, which allows for some fail safing (no power = closed gate)."I read that as a drawbridge, which is what came to mind when the thread started. The drawbridge covering a dry moat (ditch) that's lined with rock to simulate a dry stream bed until it actually becomes one and lets the flood flow to where it's allowed. At least then you have some contouring to control the flooding and the drawbridge is there if it gets real bad.The drawbridge itself should be welded out of steel, galvanized, and then powder coated for looks. Don't make it from aluminum unless your prepared to come home one day and find it stolen. If you want it to look like it was made of timbers have it welded of rectangular steel tube. The raising/lowering could be done with electric motors or electric powered hydraulics. Maybe adapted from the ramps that connect the loading docks to tractor trailers that the forklifts roll over.Will definitely add to the security of the property.

  4. woodway | Dec 14, 2006 10:32pm | #7

    Forget the gate and just build a hump in the drive adjacent to the curb. It's cheap, easy and never needs maintenance. From the pics it looks as though you should consider a built up berm of some sort on the right side of the house also, directing water in back of or around to the front of the house.

  5. Warren | Dec 14, 2006 11:17pm | #8

    FEMA.gov has some excellent books and plans for free on flood control for homeowners whih some good ideas on how to do so.  The other publications have always been great also.

    All I ever Needed to Know I learned in Kindergarten- Robt. Fulghum
  6. arrowpov | Dec 15, 2006 01:25am | #10

    Can you do some regrading of the property to control the direction of water.

    I spent alot of time and effort floodproofing a home we used to live in. When the water flows an inch over a 4 foot 400 foot long berm, it won't make a difference. It's hard to control mother nature.

    Your project does not look hard to do without the gates.

    1. nickjandrews | Dec 15, 2006 01:37am | #12

      The problem is that the house sits lower than the street, so regrading the yard won't solve the problem of teh driveway becoming a sluiceway.Nick Andrews"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759

      1. ANDYSZ2 | Dec 15, 2006 04:58pm | #17

        Is there a drainage runoff ditch running the roadside front of the property?

        If so I would put a cattle barrier across the driveway in line with the ditch.This way the water would run into the ditch instead of going down the driveway and you can wash out the mud if need be.

        ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

        REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

         

        1. nickjandrews | Dec 15, 2006 08:37pm | #18

          Around here, that should be an obvious answer to use two lengthwise. This is in a so-called 'upscale' area of town (read: people who got ripped off for the lots AND houses!) so I don't think they will go for anything that large. They are against the berm for aesthetic reasons, ironically!And they should never get that much water again. The county is doing a project that will cut off a vast portion of the runoff that caused this much flooding.Nick Andrews"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."- Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759

  7. Ozlander | Dec 15, 2006 05:40am | #13

    What keeps the gate from being encased in mud so the clients can't move it?

    If the gate stops the mud, the mud will end up at/under/around the gate.

    Ozlander

    1. RedfordHenry | Dec 15, 2006 06:44am | #14

      Yeah, my thoughts exactly.  Seems like a gate will work once, then will be permanently immobilized by the ton of silt and clay that has settled around it.  I'd put my money into a proper drainage system that sheds the water away from critical areas.  A superior system will also include some means to filter out the fines before they plug up the drains or tiles.

    2. [email protected] | Dec 15, 2006 06:55am | #15

      Properly designed landscape berms are the easiest most cost effective way to solve the problem.  Integrate them into the landscaping and it will actually improve the visuals of the house.

      As to them not trusting a berm:  A 2-foot berm, will hold back just as much water as any other 2-foot high structure, be it a wall or gate.  And, it  has two added benefits:  no moving parts to break; and there is no way anyone can forget to close it. 

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Balancing Density and Privacy in Los Angeles

Four 2200-sq.-ft. detached homes provide flexible open-plan housing on this Los Angeles block.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Get an overview of the process of creating a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes from experienced mason Mike Mehaffey.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 549: Energy Upgrades, Chimney Inspections, and Questions About a Home You Might Buy
  • Podcast 549: Members-only Aftershow—Patios vs. Decks
  • Podcast 548: PRO TALK With Design/Build Operations Manager Jessica Bishop-Smyser
  • Strategies for Venting a Roof Valley

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams
  • Issue 311 - November 2022
    • 7 Steps to a Perfect Exterior Paint Job
    • Options for Smarter Home-Energy Tracking
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: James Metoyer
  • Issue 310 - October 2022
    • Choosing a Tile-Leveling System
    • Choosing Between HRVs and ERVs
    • Custom Built-in Cabinets Made Easy

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in