Need ledger detail for tongue & groove porch flooring
I’m reframing my covered porch. I put on a layer of self adhering membrane to the house sheathing and bolted on my 2×8 ledger. I put atop the ledger another layer of self adhering membrane running up the sheathing a few inches and onto and over the ledger. My plan was to attach some metal flashing and then put the t&g flooring down. However, that means the siding atop the flooring will extend down and just touch the flooring. It seems some water can get trapped in that space (siding, ledger, flooring). Yes, the flooring is sloped away from the house, and the t&g runs perpendicular to the house, but with t&g flooring there are no gaps for water to escape. What is the proper ledger flashing for t&g flooring? Do I just caulk the siding to the flooring?
Updated 5/18/15
– house is in NE KS, 45in of annual rainfall
– porch is covered, but *not* enclosed
– house is http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pID=163
– there is no wrb on the walls above the porch ledger (built in 2000, but no wrb at all, no tarpaper, masonite siding atop osb)
– I used this stuff called DeckSeal (Northern Elastomeric Inc, Brentwood NH) from Menards. It’s a self adhesive anti-corrosion flashing (SAF) I removed 2 rows of 12″ siding. I put on two overlapping rows of the SAF direct to the OSB. I attached the 2×8 ledger with ledgerlok bolts. I put another SAF onto the SAF above the ledger, down and then out and over the 1.5″ ledger and about 1″ down the ledger — one continuous piece of SAF. My plan is to now add metal flashing, http://www.menards.com/main/deckestimator/deckestimatorledgerflashing/10-steel-deck-flashing/p-1810617-c-5728.htm, and then another layer of SAF. See the attached file for a visual. The SAF I’m using adheres OK, but I’m thinking I may want to run some weather seal tape, eg. dow weathermate, to keep it secured to the OSB. As is, if water gets behing the siding it may get trapped between the osb and loosend SAF.
Replies
no caulk
your detail is good it would be better if there was a 1/4 to 1/2" gap between the siding and deck the air will dry up any small amount of water that may creep. sweep it out once and awhile to keep clear, caulk wont look good. Some situations do require a second custom made" counterflashing". It sits on top of decking and goes behind housewrap and siding.
It needs to look nice, custom bent alum. with folded a seam and double bend which will extend just past the siding. the double bend will act like a spring of sorts providing flex and always keeping tension on the deck surface so water doesn't push underneath. it would be" L" shaped with an extra bend on the tip that is angled down and folded over, it needs to be double thick to work well.
yes use metal flashing. they make z flashing with for 2x material. make sure the part of the metal flashing that turns up the wall ends up behind your house wrap.
the siding you end up using will determine how much of a separation you need between the floor and bottom of the siding.
water table?
This may be a good place to remove the bottom run of siding and put in a water table with a drip edge. SEal the ends of your T&G that will sit in this area.
Any photos of this area?
YOu say your rebuilding a
YOu say you're rebuilding a "covered" porch. By covered, I take this to mean covered from the elements. Also, based on your moniker, I'm guessing you're in Colorado where most places seem to experience avg. annual rainfall is less than 20". Based on your planned details, I'd say you have little to worry about in terms of protection from moisture at the deck-to-house juncture.
Even if you have storms blow moisture in from the ends, it will dry out in short order; particularly if you don't caulk. Caulk is a secondary water seal, probably won't last long, probably look like hell, and is not necessary in your case.
Thanks... yes.. caulk is a double edged sword in most places in my opinion. For the exact reason one intends to use it, it ends of making it worse. I will plan to attach the siding 3/8" or so above the flooring. I'll have a little issue right at the door threshold.
Coloradotrout, you make a keen observation about caulk that many fail to realize. When you add in that many folks use the cheapest caulk available, use the wrong type for the wrong reasons, and install it improperly, it usually becomes a receipe for disaster.
But as the saying goes," A little caulk and paint makes a carpenter what he aint".
For a few years, maybe.
Any suggestions on what to do at the door threshhold? It will extend out onto the t&g flooring. I'm very concerned with water getting back into that area and rotting out the flooring or theshold. Near as I can tell, the door opening is not flashed in any way.
I bought some self adhering type flashing at Menards. It's not Grace Vycor, but seems to work similar, although it does seem to lose its adhesion over time. Last fall, I used it to flash from the bottom of the sheathing up about 8" above where the ledger would be. (I removed 2 rows of 12" siding - about 1 row will need to go back on). Then I bolted on the ledger, and put another layer of self adhering flashing 4" up the sheathing (atop the first layer) out over the 1.5" of the ledger and then 1" down the ledger. My plan was to then nail metal deck flashing atop that, and finally, apply another layer of self adhering flashing atop the metal flashing to seal the top edge of the metal flashing to the first layer of self adhering flashing I installed. (Note my other post where I state I do NOT have housewrap - none, no WRB at all, just siding atop OSB.
Also.. should I do anything below the ledger board? The self adhering flashing is atop the OSB. That is all I have there. Once the flooring is inplace that area will be pretty well protected. I thought the self adhering flashing would be a final top layer.
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Welcome to the high tech world of F.H. Breaktime. Mods watching you? Don't flatter yourself. When it comes to watching, I believe the only watching F.H. is concerned about is the watching of pop-ups paid for by sponsors. Those cycle flawlessly, unabated,.and with abandon. Spam will usually get fished out pretty quickly because, after all, they ain't payin'.
Anyhow, looks like you've engineered a work around. Proves, once again, that there's always more than one way to skin a cat.
I run AdBlock -- does a nice job. Still the pages load slower. Do you frequent any other forums?
reposted here
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/need-ledger-flashing-details-273010/#post2069833