FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Need Tips on Using Hardibacker

geoman | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 12, 2006 09:03am

Hello All,

I’m remodeling a master bathroom (my own) and was advised to use Hardibacker cementatious backer board for the walls in the shower area, but to switch to green board for the remainder of the walls and ceiling.  Looking over the Hardibacker web site regarding installation, I see nothing that addresses my concerns.  One, installation of hardibacker requires use of a thin set and alkali resistant fiberglass tape.  OK. Fine. If i’m tiling over these surfaces that’s no problem. However, how do I prepare the thin set covered joints and screw heads (which are driven only flush with backer board as James Hardie advices) for primer and paint???  The surface of the Hardibacker looks too “coarse” for a smooth application of paint.  Two, where gypsum wallboard meets Hardibacker, how does one address the resulting joint?   Joint compound or thinset??   Lastly, would I save myself headaches by applying Hardiebacker for the entire job.  The space is minimal, 8 ft ceilings and a 4 ft by 10 ft area.

Thanks!

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    dieselpig | Jul 12, 2006 09:08pm | #1

    You understand that Hardibacker is an underlayment or substrate for tile and not a wall board product like sheetrock, right?

    View Image
    1. FLA Mike | Jul 12, 2006 10:27pm | #4

      I'm interested to see exactly what he means, but it does seem like he's not tiling the surround. 

      but there's nothing wrong with using HardiBacker as your finished wallboard.  In older homes with plaster walls I prefer using Hardibacker to make smaller repairs.  Much more solid than DW, takes less work to match the plaster's texture, and it feels and sounds more like the original plaster.  Not that normal people actually notice that, but...

      I've also wondered about taking it a step further maybe doing a hallway or room with HB, horizontal joints could be covered with chair rail at 60'', and up higher a picture rail or frieze if you have tall ceilings.  Wall frames from floor to ceiling could take care of the vertical joints.  Not normal, and expensive to trim that way, but these are the things I think about.

      HB is also great for shower ceilings if you can use one piece, which you usually can.

      Don't get me wrong, I still hate cutting the stuff.

      1. User avater
        dieselpig | Jul 12, 2006 10:39pm | #5

        Yeah, I guess it's possible Mike.  He could probably also get decent results using $20 bill for insulation... know what I mean?  Just cuz you can doesn't always mean you should.

        Maybe I mis-read, but I'm not even 100% sure he's talking about tiling over it in the shower area.  He seems to want to know how to prime and paint over the seams and screw heads.... maybe I'm jaded, but that sends a red flag up from where I'm sitting.  Just trying to get the facts straight.  Maybe he's got it all under control.View Image

        1. FLA Mike | Jul 12, 2006 10:53pm | #6

          My idea does ring of insanity, diesel.  Won't argue there.

          That's just what happens when I start thinking.

          1. User avater
            dieselpig | Jul 12, 2006 10:58pm | #8

            I can relate.  I'm just worried that this guy is gonna hang Hardi on the studs in his shower, paint it, and call it a day.  I guess the good news would be that it won't take long to figure out that it's a mistake.  :)

            Maybe I'm reading into it too much and he just worded his question in an odd way.  Hope he comes back and clears it up though.View Image

          2. pickings | Jul 12, 2006 11:03pm | #10

            Hey Diesel.......you read correctly.

            Maybe he should use "durock" and stucco over it with "venetian plaster"sp? before painting.

          3. User avater
            dieselpig | Jul 12, 2006 11:05pm | #11

            And don't forget to remind the framer..... 18" OC please.  :)View Image

          4. pickings | Jul 12, 2006 11:08pm | #12

            Sh!t....the framing's done already........no ssweat.....he could just trim all the HB boards to 32" wide....the trim will cover the rough edges.

          5. Seanbuilder | Sep 20, 2021 04:50pm | #19

            No - it is smart. Try it on a small bathroom. Will never crumble or rot from moisture. I did it on my house and it looks and works great. Used smooth back of hardiboard

      2. pickings | Jul 12, 2006 11:01pm | #9

        horizontal joints could be covered with chair rail at 60''

        you'all sure have tall chairs in FL.

        I agree that hardibacker would do nicely for patches...but....to use it on a hall or a room....then cover all the vert and horiz seams (for these little 3X5 sheets) with trim????????

        You must own quite a bit of hardibacker stock to push it that hard.

         

        1. FLA Mike | Jul 13, 2006 05:39am | #17

          I guess you could go with a 36'' chair rail, running the bottom course of HB fat, and the top course skinny.  But now I'm gonna have to totally redesign everything.  That 60'' rail in my HardiHall was gonna clash with my foot-operated light switches anyway.

           

    2. geoman | Jul 13, 2006 03:10am | #13

      Gentleman,

      Thanks so much for your response.  Sorry that my description of my Hardibacker concerns was not the easiest to grasp or understand.  In the interest of clarification, I'm tiling completely in the shower space (defined at the base by a Kohler receptor), and tiling up to approximately 48" (wainscotting?) outside the shower area.   With the assistance you provided I now can shake off this bit of a bump in progress and wallboard and HB away.   You guys are great!

      Ciao!

      Geoman

      1. User avater
        JeffBuck | Jul 13, 2006 03:24am | #14

        and for what it's worth ...

        should U install the backer where the tile layout dictates ... and line them joints up so they'll all be nice and hidden by the border tiles ....

        and then the designer changes everything and U are left with big swatches of now exposed backer ...

        U can very nicely feather it smooth with a setting joint compound ... like Durobond or my favorite Easysand ... coupla light coats ... and it'll paint up just fine.

         

        and ... I don't like greenboard anywhere. I use regular drywall everywhere the hardi ain't. Use a good bath paint ... like PermaWhite. Plus ... for ceilings ... U gotta increase the framing ... they recommend joists at 12 inches on center.

        Use regular drywall and U can use the standard 16oc.

         

        Jeff    Buck Construction

         Artistry In Carpentry

             Pittsburgh Pa

        1. BryanSayer | Jul 13, 2006 05:15am | #15

          What Jeff said, except maybe use DensArmor and maybe use DensShield for the non-shower tile area.  A setting joint compound smoothes out nicely.

          1. FLA Mike | Jul 13, 2006 05:29am | #16

            What, you guys can't get the 4x8 PermaBase where you're at?  Eh, I don't even know off hand if you can use that stuff for walls.

            And...JeffBuck is right, beef up the ceiling if you're going with anything more than drywall in there.

            And about DensArmor, do yourself a favor if you go there and wear your Teflon suit.  Itchy, itchy, and more itchy.

  2. User avater
    jhausch | Jul 12, 2006 09:21pm | #2

    The hardi to greenboard joint should be clear of the area where it would be subject to regular contact with water.  For example, the tile should end outside of where the shower curtain or glass door will be. 

    A transition type tile (with a finished edge, like a bull nose or edge tile) can bridge the transition from hardi and thinset to the drywall. 

    Your mileage may vary, but - ideally - the thickness of the hardi and thinset should be pretty close to the thickness of the 1/2 green board.  The tranisition tile will be set in thinset, but part of the tile will bridge onto the greenboard.  You could run a bead of silicone on the back of the tile that lands on the greenboard.

    Tape along the "greenboard" edge of the transition tiles before you grout.  Pull the tape when done, re-tape an 1/8" away from the edge on both sides and then caulk the joint.

    http://jhausch.blogspot.com
    Adventures in Home Building
    An online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
  3. saulgood | Jul 12, 2006 09:33pm | #3

    The hardiebacker sheets for tub/shower are sized to go five feet above the tub, and it takes four of these installed vertically for a typical surround.

    Use these, and plan for your tiles to extend just past the border where the greenboard starts. you can use fiberglass tape with thinset to span the gap, but you may want to use some joint compound to have a smooth transition coming out from under the edge.

    In other words, the room can be rocked, taped and finished with a good oil based paint before you tile. When you spread your thinset to attach the bullnose border tiles, mask the walls so that the very edges will stay clean (no thinset), and caulk the resulting gap under the tiles.

    A word of advice: before you hang the backer, make sure your framing is as plumb and square as possible. This is your chance to correct problems so that the tiles will go on evenly with no funky cutting. And whatever else you do - take extra care to protect your tub or shower pan from scratching. EDIT: in other words, "what HE said!"



    Edited 7/12/2006 2:37 pm ET by saulgood

  4. pickings | Jul 12, 2006 10:56pm | #7

    If i'm tiling over these surfaces that's no problem. However, how do I prepare the thin set covered joints and screw heads (which are driven only flush with backer board as James Hardie advices) for primer and paint???  The surface of the Hardibacker looks too "coarse" for a smooth application of paint. 

    What shade of blue "rubberized pool paint" are you using on the hardibacker in your shower?

    Why not tiles or some other more water proff material/finish?????

  5. Seanbuilder | Sep 20, 2021 04:44pm | #18

    I used the smooth back of hardy backer in the entire bathroom- taped with fiberglass and smooth cement. Sealed it. Finished with a high quality vinlyl patching compound. Looks smooth like sheetrock but it will never crumble from moisture.

    To me - installing sheetrock or greenboard in a bathroom is more insane. It cant get wet.

    5 years in and backer board wall look perfect

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Old House Air-Sealing Basics

Look high and low to find and plug air leaks that cost you money and comfort.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 692: Introduction to Trade Work, Embodied Carbon, and Envelope Improvements
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Embodied Greenhouse Gas Emissions and the Building Codes
  • Old Boots Learn New Tricks
  • Install Denim Insulation Like a Pro

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data