Replies

1. 
   Mike_Collins | May 03, 1999 06:12am | #1

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   I am replacing the clap board on my house & was wondering if I should prime before staining? People are telling me not to prine since I'm using solid stain?

2. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 1999 08:53am | #2

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   Since it's a solid stain, I'd prime to avoid bleed though. Don't forget to backprime as well. Since you're stipping the walls to sheathing (assumption?) you may want to take the opportunity to install a rain screen, unless the added depth will mess with your exterior trim.

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   Guest_ | May 03, 1999 10:11am | #3

   *Mongo - what's a rain screen? - yb

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   Mike_Collins | May 03, 1999 07:49pm | #4

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   I am planning to remove the old clap along with all the old brick. I plan on using R19 fiberglass to insulate. I read an article last night that said to use felt instead of vapor wrap and also use fir strip.

   I will be dipping the raw cedar before hanging it. Do you think I should use a primer before the solid stain? If so what do you think latex or oil?

   Thanks
   Mike

4. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 1999 09:07pm | #5

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   yb,

   I'm sure you'll recognize the description, it just has different names depending on your region.

   After the sheathing and house wrap/felt are installed, run vertical furring strips (thickness varies, usually 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick)over the sheathing/studs. You then apply the claps as you normally would, nailing into the furring strip/stud. You'll want all siding seams to fall on the furring strip.

   It simply puts an air space between the claps and the house wrap. It minimizes moisture wicking problems between the claps and sheathing, and allows for any surfactant issues between the claps and the house wrap which could result in house wrap degradation and possible sheathing rot.

   It does add to the thickness of the wall, which is where the thickness compatability with the exterior trim comes in. At the bottom of the wall behind the bottom clap, install a little section of insect screen to keep the critters from nesting behind the claps. I simply make a "tube" of the screen and staple it in place, it "puffs" out to fill the gap.

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   Guest_ | May 05, 1999 09:18pm | #6

   *Mike, I prefer an oil-based primer on cedar claps. Cedar had a tendency to "bleed" through solid stains, it's more visible on light colored siding. It makes for a mottled appearance. Depending on the wood, it can take a few months to a few years to show. Priming prior to using a solid stain helps to seal the wood and prevent bleed through. Don't forget to prime the back of the boards prior to installation, as well as all cut edges as it is being installed. Having a small can of primer and a small brush near the saw makes it easy.

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   Guest_ | May 05, 1999 11:24pm | #7

   *Mongo - thanks, I never have run into this, although I have seen gable ends built out in this manner. Do you still fur out over house wrap/felt if walls are not sheeted? - yb

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   Guest_ | May 15, 1999 06:03am | #8

   *Yes...it does two things, it gives a channel for any liquid that happens to get between the claps and the wrap/sheathing, and by keeping the cedar off the wrap, it helps to minimize or avoid any surfactant/degradation issues with, you guessed it, the wrap and the claps.

5. 
   Jim_Yates_P.E. | May 15, 1999 06:20am | #9

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   Mike, you definitely want to prime before using solid color stain. KILZ primer will work but the best stain killing primer is shellac. I use white pigmented shellac which provides some "tooth" for the stain as well as seals out knots, sap streaks and tannins in the wood. Keep in mind shellac is an alcohol based product and dries very fast. This can be good or bad. Don't leave your brush and open container sit idle too long. Good luck.

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   Guest_ | May 15, 1999 06:56am | #10

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   The last paragraph of 2.1.1 was clipped off. Another product I've seen used for the insect barrier is a piece of the cheap ridge vent, it looks like a brillos pad on steroids. Cobra is one brand, I belive. Use a 2-3 inch wide strip behind the bottom clap and between the furring strips. Inexpensive and a better insect barrier than the window screen.

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   Guest_ | May 15, 1999 10:37pm | #11

   *Mike, I didn't see it mentioned above... use stainless steel fasteners or you will have "bleeding" problems.As Mongo and Jim mentioned, prime and backprime... dipping is a good idea... remember to swipe on some primer or stain over all the cut edges too.

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   Guest_ | May 16, 1999 02:39am | #12

   *Jim and Mongo, What do you recommend for backpriming only, where one doesn't care about bleeding. The exposed side will be sealed with something transparent or just slightly pigmented, but I assume white would be OK for the back. I backprimed redwood a couple of years ago with a white oil based primer. That was OK except I had to sand where it dripped onto the bottom edge of the clapboard. Is there something clear I could use for backpriming, so I wouldn't care about the dripping?

7. 
   Jim_Yates_P.E. | May 16, 1999 06:21am | #13

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   Rufus, I've used two different products in that same situation. One was Minwax spar urethane varnish, the other was a water base lacquer (Crystalac 2000) similar to Hydrocote but suitable for exterior application. Both dried quickly on the cedar bevel siding I was finishing.I think the film formed by these clear finishes is better suited to preventing moisture from entering the wood than primers which are meant to be topcoated.

8. 
   Mike_Collins | May 16, 1999 06:21am | #14

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