Next week I’ve got to replace old Masonite siding on 2 dormers. The shingle roof is shot and needs to be replaced but has to wait 6 months or so. I’ve suggested that waiting until the roof is stripped would make more sense since the flashing has to be replaced but the owner wants to get the siding finished. <P>
So, given that I have to install new flashing before the new roof what’s the best procedure? The old shingles are so thin and worn that lifting them just destroys them. I want to install copper step flashing. Can I just install new step flashing over the existing shingles using the same layout and let the roofers weave the shingles in when they roof? If not I’m sure looking for ideas.
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That is going to leave a lumpy flashing intersection in the shingles when they do it, IMO. i'd be waiting to do it all at once too.
But if it has to be, it has to be - so use lead instead. That will be plenty pliable for the roofers to work into the new work
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What type of siding?
Most sidings have to be installed with a gap above the finished roof. This airspace allows the moisture to escape and the ends of the siding will dry out instead of rotting. It is normally very easy to slip the step flashings behind the siding. The siders have to leave the last foot or so loose (no nails).
Where it becomes a problem is at corner of the dormer to get a good fit there.
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Don't set the nails on the corner boards so the roofers can take them off, flash, and then re-install the corners. We have them do that on new construction all the time.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
When I was a roofing sub, I could never get the trim carps to just tack that rim on. They felt like they had to nail it tight and then I had to trash it to get it off and do my flashing. Then they trash talked the damn stoopid roofer...
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We're fortunate in that we see the same subs over and over again. We typically try to make each other's lives as easy as possible.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
and some folks think there is something wrong witha good old boy network!
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We always left the corner boards loose too. If the siding is stucco, then that solution won't work.
Explain to the HO what the problem is, and get him to allow you to strip and reshingle just enough roof to put the flashing on properly. For a typical dormer, you're talking about maybe 1 pack of shingles?? Not a big deal.
Then in six months, when you (or whoever) comes in to do the whole roof, you just strip up to the new stuff, and start from there. Six months of sun, even in Florida, isn't gonna make that much of a colour difference in the shingles.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
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foolish men call Justice....
For only six months, he could do it with RooftopgaurdII
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Yep, but then he'd still have to weave the shingles into the flashing in 6 months, encountering the problems you mentioned earlier. I figger, just install one shingle under each piece of step now, put on the siding once, and do the rest of the roof in 6 months.
Hey--at least he's actually planning on doing the step flashing properly. You wouldn't believe how many dormers I see with valley flashing on the sidewalls.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Guys, <P>
Valley flashing is what's there now.<P>
My brother's house 600 miles away from me so I can only do so much. We did Hardi siding on the ends and back 2 weeks ago and I'm going back in a couple of weeks to finish the front.<P>
His last re-roof was right after Hugo when there were a lot of fly-by-nighters in town. His roof is criminal. No felt on a 2 1/2 pitch bump out, no starter course in places, beer can thin aluminum flashing nailed to the chimney and other sins too numerous to mention. <P>
I'd planned to counter flash the chimney with reglets and copper. Would copper be okay or would lead be better? <P>
We're going to put Hardi on the dormers and I had planned to leave it 2 inches off the roof. So, if we leave the bottoms un-nailed and the corner boards loose the roofers will be able to install step flashing? <P>
I still think not doing the dormers until after the roof is the best choice but it means another 1300 mile drive for me.
Edited 6/14/2009 9:30 pm ET by florida
Yep, I hear ya on that long commute. But there's no guarantee the next crew of roofers is gonna step-flash that dormer unless you're there to supervise. So I suggest you do just enough shingling to set your step flashing while you're doing the dormer siding, and leave the rest of the shingles for later. If the roofers come in and see brand-new shingles and step flashing, they won't likely strip those shingles but will work right up to them.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
There is no reason why any semi experienced roofer couldn't figure a way to slide step flashing under a hardi siding lap siding job. There isn't anything easier than that even if the siders accidently nail too low. If you are going to leave the required 2" (I wouldn't) then it is easier still.
Quit worrying about it. It's a non-issue.
The bigger issue is to get them to lap the corner boards properly so you can project the step flashing through the joint.
Yeah, you all have me thinking how I'm going to do this. I think I'll attach the corner boards with a few screws so they can be removed easily then hand nail the bottom pieces of Hardi so they can be removed too. Good access for flashing and something my brother can put back without me.
Thanks for the good advice.