In what I may come to regret as a major mistake, my wife and I purchased a 100 y/o log cabin that we are moving to land we own. I’ll be taking it apart (numbering carefully with lots of pictures) and reassembling on a new full basement foundation. My questions regard sizing the foundation.
1) The cabin is about 25′ square (single story). I measured the length of each side by measuring from the outside edge of the bottom logs (the 9 oclock or 3 oclock position, respectively). The N and S dimensions differ by 1 1/2″; the E and W by 1 1/4″. The actual dimensions are: N – 24’10 5/8″, E – 24’11 1/4″, S- 24’9 5/8″,and W 24’10”.
I’ve been told that I should make the foundation using those outside dimension, not to undersize it so that I can chink (we’ll be using a modern chinking material done by a professional chinker) from the foundation up to the bottom log. I’ve also been told to put pressure treated sill under that bottom log which I guess the chinking covers. So, does this sound right? Any suggestions? Pitfalls?
2) The other question is should we observe the minimium 8″ of foundation above grade or can we make it lower so it appears more like the original cabins setting which sits on a rubble foundation?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Replies
If I were to do it over again ( unlikely) i'd have tore down and built up like you are thinking.
I would use a PT or locust or white oak sill...then use a HALFLOG on two walls to get started.
I'd plan on trimming and renotching some logs ( you don't say what type of corners ya have) so the actuall dimension is likely to be smaller than what you have existing.
You are not even close to factoring in chinking, so don't be concerned unduly about it.
8'' up exposed foundation ? Sure ya can..avoid splashing with large overhangs and drainage gravel , yer fine.
Hang on, it is a HELL OF A RIDE...2 yrs almost and counting here.. http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=38593.1
this some what you might avoid....
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"I don't think it's funny no more" Nick Lowe.
Edited 10/30/2005 8:33 am ET by Sphere
Thanks for the suggestions. I had thought of the half log and as I think more about it, it does make sense. The joints are dovetail, hand cut.
I wish you haddn't told me about the two years, though....
Walt
I probly have 5 more to go. That is why your tear it down and rebuild is a smarter way to go, we are living in the chaos.
Where are ya? What flavor logs? Will you be adding a 2nd floor? Truss roof?
Since I have started my fiasco, i have met many locals who have done the same thing with these projects...and have had valuble helpful tips. But the most remembered tips are from my own "learning by suprise"...
Plan, plan, plan..esp about wiring!!!! it can be a joy or a kamikazi mission.
Do not sandblast, use a rented blaster from Permachink..they are all over the country. Or use a power washer. I used a slew of grinders and various attachments...long dirty work.
The bright side is, you will aquire a bunch of new tools, cuz you WILL kill anything that is old. LOL Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"I don't think it's funny no more" Nick Lowe.
I'm in Western Montana, near Missoula. The logs are larch, 6-8". We hope to preserve the very weathered appearance of the logs. We have one big thing in our favor in that the cabin has been continuously occupied for its entire life.
The present cabin has a 12/12 roof so that the second floor has a full height bedroom. We're going to redo this part by either adding 2' or so to the height or adding a dormer to give us some more space. Not completely sure what we'll do as far as replacing the floor joists and rafters. Amazingly, the floor joists are only 4" deep but there is very little bounce to the floors and that is with minimal supporting walls on the first floor. I'll wait to see what we have as we take it apart and then decide what to do.
Walt
Ok, thanks for that info...we are at opposite ends of the log home spectrum.
Best of luck! I am sure it will work out fine. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"I don't think it's funny no more" Nick Lowe.
A helpful hint ; I always use log centers as a measuring point. easy to establish with a level & a plumb line. That way the taper of the log is is irrelevant
That is worth remembering - sort of the same idea of how you establish reference lines in timber framing. Thanks.
I'm guessing you have a 'western' cabin with round logs? The dimensions you relate are uncommon for an eastern structure with hewn, flattened logs -
a couple of considerations - because of the structural nature of the logs, the assembly can set on a few points (rocks) and then rubble used to fill in - in fact, because of the unique character of each log, a level foundation may well throw the whole assembly out of kilter -
I'd like some more details on the specifics of the the floor - here in the midwest, generally the bottom logs, front and back, have the floor joist morticed into them and a nailer attached to the end logs to catch the end of the flooring material - how is your cabin done?
to further the discussion, I'd suggest you consider pouring your basement and building a platform (floor) over the top of it and then setting the cabin on the platform - adjust the bottom logs (shim or remove material) and stack the assembly - size your foundation so there is a brick ledge such that you can mud some native rock from the ledge to catch the bottom of the logs -
That's an interesting suggestion regarding a platform and a good point about the unlikelyness of the existing foundation being level. I guess it is western style (we are in Montana) and the logs are round.
Your suggestion that we have a brick ledge - if the foundation walls are 8" thick, are we talking about a 4" setback? Does this mean the brickwork/stonework has to be completed before we set the logs on top of the platform? I think I'm confused.
I won't have answers to your other questions until we start the dissasembly a week from Monday.
Thanks.
Take a look at Insulated Concrete Forms for your basement.
Very energy efficient and user friendly. You are able to "hang" your floor system inside the foundation walls and avoid having a tough finishing situation on covering your platform framed deck with a standard foundation.
Your logs can then bear directly on the concrete walls.
Norseman is correct with using log centerlines for foundation layout, but remember to have a slight 1 in to 1 1/2 overhang on your foundation and a small flashing to direct water away from your sill logs.
Keep your logs away from the ground, at least 1 ft to prevent splash back from rain.
Water is the enemy.
I had thought about using ICFs but the time constrains - I have to start taking the logs apart in a week - force me to use a sub and go with what the local expertise can do.
Also, I've now had a couple differing opinons on whether to go with an overhang of the logs over the foundation. I've been told by one old hand at these things to have the foundation out to the edge of the log and then clink into it. But when you look at what's been done historically, the log is overhanging a stone foundation.
ah, yes, I see there was much information added before I got around to replying - sorry to be redundant -
in regards to the brick ledge, I'm just thinking about about a strategy so as not to expose concrete - around here I'd think in terms of preparing the foundation, setting the logs and then stacking/mortering limestone from the brickledge to the logs, custom fitting, if you will, the rock to the logs - I've done a fair amount of work with midwestern hewn cabins where the walls are logs flattened to about 8" thick (often 16 - 24" tall) which gives plenty of thickness to work with - your situation with smaller round logs may be more difficult - maybe rock the corners and one spot in the middle, set the logs, and then finish the rock? -
sounds like an interesting project for sure - post a few photos if/as you can -
"there's enough for everyone"
Maybe the thing to do is to go ahead with the foundation with the intent of someday adding that stone veneer. Time doesn't permit it now, but maybe there is a way (like your corner suggestion) to add it later.