I am starting to build my house and I want to be sure to cover all the bases. So my question is are there any tips and or trick you have for someone building a new house. A few examples are power plugs on the eves for Christmas lights, insulate the garage, etc. Any help would be great!
Thanks
Joe
Replies
Use 2x6 instead of 2x4's when framing the walls (for increased insulating abilities and structural strength). Put down some 2 inch insulating foam board before pouring field of foundation (for thermal break between it and ground). I am sure others have more tips!
Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Personally,
I would like to see an outdoor electrical outlet, and a hose bib on all sides of the house.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Speaking of hose bibs they have one that is plumbed for hot water too. That is great for mixing buckets of warm car wash soapy water.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
If either of you are gardeners (particularly the missus) have a toilet accessible from outside, rahter than leaving muddy footprints thru the house.
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Not sure of your climate, but one of my
favorites is an outdoor shower.
Form working in the garden to coming home from
work it is a wonderful experience.
MR resistant drywall in the garage with a hose
bib to wash cars in winter?
Mclaren
Joe - tell us more about your house, your experience (are you the GC, builder, or hiring it out), your climate, hobbies, lifestyle (kids etc) we'll know better how to give you advice.
Is your design complete, or can we comment on that? Are the bedroom windows on the East side, the living areas on the sunny side, the garage on the North? What style is your house, what is your budget, what level of trim?
Have you read the Susanka books? A Pattern Language?
Are you in the woods, a field, a town, a subdivision?
If you do a search, there is a huge list here somewhere of someone's non-negotiables in a new house (cat 5 & audio to every room etc) No one would agree with the list entirely, but it will give you some ideas.
Brian and everyone,
Wow thanks for the information so far!
The house is a 2200 sq ft over a basement. I will try to post a pic. I am an engineering tech by trade (draftsman) so I tok the things we liked from about 5 or 6 plans and designed the house from there. I have a friend from school that has been building for over 25 years and he will be building the house. I was planning to do the GC work but I admit that I don't have the time. I have a background in engineering and I have a very large mechanical ability. I ive in NW GA so it is 87 degrees but 150,000% humity. Hobbies, I have 2 boys 8 & 5, Scouts, outdoors, cycling, and starting on my Cobra! (wishful thinking). I have completed the design but again i will try to post it. Buget is $230+/-. As far as trim level, I really just want to get "in" the house and the "house" to be built solid. The plan is to finish the outside with cement fiber board siding, vinyl soffits and windows. Inside will be 9' flat ceilings throughout. Every house is the same up to the sheetrock, how it is finished after that is what makes it. I plan on taking one room at a time and put in the trim and finishing touches once we get in. I realize things can be upgraded and I have no problem with that is just getting all the "guts" right that I feel is more important. I have 5.5 acres about 10 mile outside of town. The area we are in is horse farms and large acre tracts. I will put the house about 300' off the road and I will not be about to see any neighbors...or they can't see me...which is probly a good thing. I will keep looking on the list for the other post and see what I can fine.
sorry for the rambling....but again THANK YOU for the help
run a gas line to your porch for the bar-b-q they come in natural gas and propane now
at the price of gas & the frequency I forget to turn off the BBQ - not for me.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
There are many past threads on this topic here and in Inspired House. Check the archives and you'll find a hour's reading and lots of good advice.
A few items from my very long list - that is still growing
All electrical boxes/receptacles/switches to be light-commercial grade or better.
Closet rod and floor drain in utility rooms
floor drain in mechanical room
Toe-kick lights in the master and guest bathrooms
Pre-wire for security cameras on exterior of each side of house
All phone lines homerun using cat-5 to control room
double duplex outlets in bedrooms
motion activated light switches in the closets.
Built in night lights in the stairways and hallways.
Brass Craft sink shut off valves
Pek with Kitec compression fittings – where code permits – copper otherwise
Kitchen hood rigid galvanized 18 gauge steel or stainless steel – NO aluminum!
Full extension drawers below counter level.
LARGE walk in pantry / storage to minimize need for cabinet space.
Stainless steel or copper flashing for all pt lumber
5/8” anchor bolts with a continuous piece of concrete reinforcing steel to the outside of anchor bolts along slab edges.
blocking for all central vacuum outlets, bathroom towel and grab pars, bathroom and kitchen cabinets.
Advantech subflooring
two piece adjustable anchors for brick ties - screws or ring shank nails only
Thermal Expansion Tank
toilets - Ultramax one-piece Toto with soft-close seat and the Sanagloss option
4” drains for all toilets with Fernco toilet seals
Built-in timers for outdoor faucets
Walk through shower –Schluter Shower system
Full size breakers only - No half size or dual breakers
Copper (no aluminum) feeders for all sub panels
ufer ground plus at least eight ground rods at least 16 foot apart connected to main panels with 1 #4 or larger continuous copper wire from first main panel through each ground rod connection. 1 #4 or larger continuous copper wire from second main panel to first ground rod.
Ground wires to all metal pipes, sheet metal ductwork, metal roof, and garage door rails..
All receptacle / switch boxes to be 3-1/2” deep or more.
No switched outlets – anywhere.
No GFI outlets – GFI breakers for all required GFI circuits
NO metal staples on wire!
At least two duplex outlets in all closets
Whole house surge suppressor in each breaker panel
Just curious, why no switched outlets?Tom
Douglasville, GA
A switched outlet is the cheap way of meeting code which says there has to be a light switch next to the door. It forces you to put a lamp on that outlet and makes it useless for most other tasks. The right answer is to put in a switched light.For my living room, I installed a small lamp on a sound activated switch, and it is much more convenient than a reqular switch.
And, if a basement is planned, put in
1) Gravel at footing
2) Drain pipe above this all the way around (they make special stuff
for this, wrapped w/ permiable cloth
3) Rock, then gravel above this
4) Sealed basement walls on outside
5) Ripple-board (what's it called, again?) to allow water to slide
down to footing drain.
6) Sump in basement w/ power for sump pump & dehumidifier
Hey presto! A dry basement forever!
They NEVER do it right! And it costs so little to have it right
forever!
Brooks
a couple of suggestions-
spend your money on the basic structure- insulation, windows, roofing, etc. Cabinets, doors, tile, carpet, etc. can be added or upgraded easily later. And any upgrade in windows and insulation will make your home warmer and quieter.
Have a chase run from your utilities area to the attic inside the walls before sheetrocking. PVC pipe works well for this. Now you can easily pull wires for any future electrical/computer needs.
No offence, but it is not a bit too late to ask that question?
"Starting to build my own house" and now trying to find out which way to go?
Planning starts many months/ years before.
Nevertheless; try subdividing your project in three major phases: Foundation/basement, Framing including mechanicals ready for drywall, Finishing
Mentally walk thru your new house as if you would already live in it. Pay attention to trafficpattern and furniture layouts.
Get professional help. Pay some experienced builders/architects/designers for suggestions. You will never learn in a few months what others learned in decades
If all fails - this forum is excellent if someone has the patience and time to help you out.
Speaking of christmas lights, I installed plugs under the eaves, both upstairs and down, and installed dimmers. Lights have a softer glow, Bulbs last longer and power consumption is about 40% less.
BruceT
Fireman pole, better than stairs.
Then an elevator to go back upstairs.
The pole could be used for other things as well.I'm only half as dumb as I look.
I wanted a fireman pole in my renovation to get to my office quickly (the main stairway is at the front of the house). My wife and GC looked at me funny.I thought about the "other uses" as well and got into trouble w/ safety concerns for the kiddies.I then thought about enclosing it (like a small closet). However, that takes all the "other fun" out of it so I am only left with the memories of what could have been...lolEd
My parents almost put one in when I was a kid, I used to jump off the handrail of the second story stairs onto the couch in the living room on the first floor. About a 14' drop.
Ruined a bunch of good couchs that way.
I'm only half as dumb as I look.
My list is for someone that plans to build a quality home and stay there.
ADA compliant (wider hallways, wider doors, higher outlets, lower switches... etc). If you have ever been in an ADA compliant home, you will wonder why they aren't built this way all the time.
Planned space for an elevator (stacked closets, for example).
No Romex- all conduit. Each room to have it's own home run and circuit breaker (at a minimum). There is no need to have a 40 circuit panel with 4 conduits off the top. Make all 120v circuits capable of 20A minimum. Garage subpanel. Commercial grade stuff- no cheap builder grade junk.
Separate plumbing circuits for the major areas of the home so one section can be isolated without turning off the whole house. All ball valves, and none of it made in China. No flex supply lines. I would consider a tankless water heater.
3" PVC chase from basement to attic in at least two locations for future TV/network etc.
Radiant barrier.
Minimum 2 x 6 exterior framing, possibly double 2 x 4 with an air gap for noise transmission.
Blown in cellulose insulation.
Simple roofline, metal roof.
Blocking for kitchen cabinets.
Just say no to commercial style residential kitchen exhaust systems unless you plan to do it right with make up air.
Best windows and exterior doors that money can buy. Exterior trim set up in such a way to allow future replacement/repair without cutting back the siding.
Most efficient HVAC equipment you can afford with properly installed ductwork. Flex duct is fine if (1) it is acessible in the future and (2) it is used as designed- no more than 5 feet in a duct run. No ductboard (fibers). All metal duct to be sealed with UL listed foil/butyl tape (round runs) or mastic/butyl tape (rectangular). Attic duct to be avoided- minimum R-6 insulation if it can't.
Equipment to be properly sized by Manual J.
Commercial type HRV for air exchange without bringing in the humidity in the summer.
I would try to make my home have plenty of passive ventilation and a whole house fan for those cool nights.
Energy will not get cheaper. I would design the house to use as little as reasonably possible- even if it meant going smaller.