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"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
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Mike -
I personally like the Rebel line of turf-type tall fescues (you can do a couple of their Rebels), and then mix in some perennial ryes. Rebel is made by Lofts.
Try these two urls for more info: http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/tips/index.html
http://www.lawninstitute.com/
-Lee
*Have you considered using creeping thyme seeds? They grow wild and spread like crazy. Smells nice too, when walked upon. Needs to be trimmed about once a season. Many cemeteries have switched over to doing this. Hardly any maintenance necessary. Thyme produces beautiful purple flowers. Stays green all winter in Massachusetts. Seeds are not cheap. Maybe you can start off by doing one section and trying it out to see if it suits you. If you do decide to go with grass, I agree with recommendation by Mongo. Don't forget to get some dolomitic limestone and work it into the soil.
*TimSome great picks but I must list a few more special strains that are sure to produce fine resultsAfrican Swami Skunk - Seeds have been selected from special growers in Swaziland. Hawaiian BC Kush - The BC Kush is a strain that has been passed around the Vancouver area for may years, gaining a reputation as a must have.Afghani Indica - Almost 100% indica, this big plant grows lots of tops. Very good commercial producer. Good Luck and may your yield be green and bountiful!
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Seriously,
I have tall fescue and it is great under trees, not under trees, four seasons (in Dallas) and doesn't spread. It it is too coarse, plant it thicker---it will be much thinner in growth. Good luck!! Also, nothing beats a sprinkler system.
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Ditto for the tall fescues. I used Winning Colors, a blend of tall fescues on my two acres and my grass was greener than my neighbors during our dry summer last year. I have a areas of clay, sand and sandly loam on my property and it does well in all soil types for me. Fescues roots are supposed to go down 4-6 feet if able were KB roots only go down 18 inches. These newer strains of fescues have narrower blades than fescues of the past. Talk is cheap, see if you can see some examples of grass planted in your area from a reputable seed dealer or landscaper. good luck
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I am fortunate to have a local commercial turf product supplier in our town who is willing to deal with a small client like myself( 2+ acres). soil analysis, then go with what works locally, find a local country club etc, if the look appeals to you ask what they've used- these guys sent me to some sites to see. For that putting green look I do 6 applications of weed and feed during the year and I can now see the light, I have high expectations for the end of this season. Just accept that if you don't want to bite the bullet and hire a pro then you will be investing a lot of money, time and energy to do it right. My wife loves it, my daughter plays on it, if it were up to me I'd pave it over.
Funny turf story: in 1965-66 I was 10 years old
my father did some cabinetry for a house that Muhamed Ali bought and renovated in Cherry Hill NJ.
I had the pleasure to meet him, what a gracious fun person for a kid to meet. Ali didn't want to be disturbed by the sound of mowers cutting the grass so he had the lawns torn out, tile drains installed, and ASTROTURF installed everywhere. My kind of guy.
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Since you want low maintenance, why not try a native grass instead of turf grass? Try a mix of grasses native to your area. Once they are established, native grasses are not supposed to need much maintenance. I don't know any good garden/landscaping sources for your area, but you might try calling these two places:
Erst Conservation Seeds (814) 336-2404
Shooting Star (502) 223-1679
The first is in Pennsylvania, the second in Kentucky.
*If you live anywhere in the Northwest I have a good suggestion for a grass blend. It's called "Park Place" and it's available by the 20# bag at Cenex. I planted it last fall here in Bellingham, WA and it looks better than the expensive sod my friend planted at the same time. I spent $16 on seed for 1200 sq. ft.
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Are there any favorite grass or grass blends that are used in the lawn of your new homes. My guess is that Kentucky 31 tall fescue or a "Contractor blend" (what's swept of of the floor with a little rye thrown in to green up quick) or a Kentucky Blue Grass are the predominate types in the eastern part of the U.S.
Do you
Use a single strain of grass or a blend ?,
Seed or Sod?,
What's your
Favorite low cost?
Favorite low maintenance?
Favorite best apperance?
Many variables here with location and soil types so you might want to add them to your reply.
Thanks, Mike
*Where do you live? Makes all the difference.
*Mike -Do you want it green this year or next year.How much shade, high/low maintainence, what are soil conditions, watering sytem yes/no, kids & pets yes/no, what do you want to have ie(like neighbors).Post the answers and you'll get a better response.With out knowing where you are, my final answer is go with sod, what you see is what you get. Want to save a few bucks. Buy beer and invite friends or hire a contractor/landscaper.
*Barry The post was meant to be for general discussion, but since you asked.I'm near Washington D.C., I've been thinking about using one of the dwarf type tall fescues, Kentucky 31 is too coarse, and Kentucky blue grass looks nice but needs to much cutting and fertilizer, and I'd rather keep the washed off fertilizer out of the well water and the creeks and streams. The soil at my home is very sandy with a high p.h., but 5 miles away the soil is clay.Please,no comments about D.C. being a source of fertilizer :)
*Mike, I would also post this question in "Fine Gardening", if you haven't already. jim
*AndersonI can live with it not being green this year.No shade trees within the lawn area, but the site is surrounded by apx. 25-30 ft trees, mostly pine with a few oak. Very few areas get full sun all day. I'd like a nice lawn without being a slave to it.Love the smell of fresh cut grass but it makes my eyes water, hence the prefernce for a slow growing grass.The er.. soil is sand with a just a little claythrown in. I've thought about adding some gypsumfor moisture retention. Organics have a tendancy to wash out in a few years. I've pondered a watering system (maybe plumbing but not the timers and valves,)but I'm on a well and if it's dry enough for the grass to turn brown then itsprobably time to conserve water.Yes to kids and pets,Thanks for the input,Mike
*I prefer Thai Sticks.But Acapulco Gold is fairly servicable.Maui Wowi is nice too.
*I wouldn't recommend using "one" of anything. Any monoculture is bad. My opinion.I use a blend of two types of Kentucky Blue, two types of fescue, and two types of rye.Usually, about 40% KB, 40% Fescue, 10% perennial rye and 10% annual rye. While the percentages remain the same for the most part, the types of KB, fescue and rye may change depending on the soil conditions and building site.The ryes put out roots first, and help hold things together while the others take their time germinating. Over the course of 2-3 years, the rye is pushed out by the blue and fescue.I'm in CT, it's a good general mix that provides some of the good and some of the bad of each seed used.Call your local cooperative extension agency. They'll be able to clue you in as to what will best suit your desires, and the needs of the building site. Some specific seed types are not recommended in certain areas due to regional diseases. The service is free, they've always been very helpful to me. They'll probably recommend you doing a soil test prior to seeding. Usually, about $5.I never recommend in-ground sprinklers for lawns. A good blend, while browning out in a draught, will recover when the rains fall. Grass is deceptively tough. During our "draught" last year, I recall hearing something like grass needing just 1/4" water per month to survive. It will brown, but it will survive. Good seed costs more per pound, but check the rates that you need to broadcast them at. While cheap seed may be half the price, often times you have to spread it at twice the rate. Be wary of "weed seed" percentages as well.If you insist on adding irrigation, consider using an underground drip (like netafim) instead of sprinkler heads. Zero maintenance. No sprinker heads to break. Much more efficient, though it may be pricier up front. If you're on city water it may very well be less expensive over the long haul as it uses a fraction of the water a sprinkler setup uses.I never sod, so no comments on it from me.Good luck. Now go call the Coop!
*Mike:Sorry dude, you need to find local information. Contact your local cooperative extension service, etc. In the spirit of trying to be helpful, I'll suggest that you read a document that is specific to my area, NC. You can at least pick up the proper terminology. (I don't think you will find the word "strain" anywhere in it). Go to this link and read the document called Carolina Lawns.By the way, can you please tell me how you feel this topic relates to i Fine Homebuilding?
*It's been a while, but last time I lived in the D.C. area, Scotts had developed a blue grass, creeping red fescue, perennial rye blend just for that area. The problem with the D.C. area is winter kill of southern grasses, but it's also hard on cool region grasses -- sort of twixt and tween. The drought in the summer of 1998 was an example of how to kill blue grasses. I've always had good luck with Scotts products. They claim high germination rates and low weed content, something not always found with no-name seeds. Web site is http://www.scottscompany.com.