New Windows In Gable-End Stucco Wall
( 1 ) I want to add two windows to a gable-end wall. The wall construction is: 2×6 studs, 1/2″ ply sheathing, 15# felt,”chicken wire”, and three-coat stucco.
All existing windows on my home are “picture-framed” with 1×4 cedar which is covered with stucco. I want the new windows to match the existing ones.
After cutting the R.O.’s ( 4′-01/2′ H x 5′-01/2″ W) I assume I will need to cut the stucco back 4″ (preferable) to 6″ from the opening. This will allow me to wrap the openings and set the window flanges on the felt. This followed by installing the 1×4 cedar trim and re-stuccoing. The latter is complicated by probable difficulties in matching the stucco.
Can anyone suggest a neat way to cut the stucco back or suggest alternatives to the entire procedure?
( 2 ) All the headers in my home ( at least on exterior walls ) are 2×10’s. Is this necessary on this gable – end wall? How about double flat 2×6 headers?
Replies
The best method I have found for cutting stucco is a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a diamond cutting wheel. After marking your cut out lines, go along with the grinder and score your cuts about 1/4" deep. You have more control with a shallow cut and can establish straight lines. Then go through and finish out the cuts to depth. You could also try a diamond wheel in a skill saw, but IMHO it is more difficult to control and you can't vary the depth as you are cutting. You must make multiple 1/4" depth passes.
Unless the window is over 3' wide, I'd be comfortable with double 2X's on the flat for the header in a gable end. You may want to screw the center of the header up into the cut studs above it so it can't "sag" with the nails sliding out, but this is overkill...it's not going anywhere.
I've done numerous window replacements in stucco and I never cut the stucco back. I use an air chisel and break it back 4" - 6" - then clean out the rubble and loose stuff. I use a large pair of diagonal cutters to cut away the wire mesh.
Every stucco repair I've seen involving a cut edge showed up sooner or later as a straight line. My repairs may eventually get some hairline cracks, but they're pretty much unoticable. Some of my early work shows due to poor technique in matching the old texture, but the stuff I've done over the past couple of years can't be seen.
It depends on what you are trying to do...if you are removing stucco beyond your trim dimensions and are going to patch back in, then Dave45 is right on. If you are using trim that is wide enough to allow proper flashing of the window, then I have had good success cutting back the stucco, placing the window, flashing it, trimming it out, and not having to patch. Let me know if you want further info on the exact protocol.
Joe -
I tried cutting back to the trim dimension once and it didn't work out very well. Another thing I do on window replacements is make a trim package. I personally don't like the "look" of stucco right up to the window or door and putting up trim gives it a better appearance - and makes it much easier to remove the window if it's ever necessary.
Here's a job I did almost three years ago. The trim is just KD 2x4 ripped down to ~3" and assembled with pocket screws. All surfaces are primed before installation. The sill is angled ~15* and I run a kerf underneath to prevent water from being drawn back into the wall. I install the window and trim, roll the screen wire back into the opening and trim away the excess, then patch the stucco. Most of the stucco work involves matching the existing texture - lol.
As stated my trim is stuccoed. If I Knew how I would attach a pic showing the look I am trying to duplicate in order to match the existing windows in my home.
The "Neat" way is the wrong way to cut and repair stucco.
The best method is to use an impact device, like an old hammer. I prefer a heavy dull hatchet. After breaking a line, beat the larger pieces inside the line into smaller ones and remove
Large channel locks work to smash smaller pieces. Save as much wire as possible as you want a couple inches overlap between the old and new.
Try hard to insure as much undercutting of the old stucco as you reasonably can. Leave no small pieces hanging around.
You don't have to break back to a stud, but you will find that sometimes a large section outside your planned line will crack off. Remove it.
30 grit sandpaper will remove a couple inches of texture around the patch so the new brown coat can be made flush with the old.
Three or four times, and once more just before going to bed, the day before each new stucco coat, saturate the old edges with water. Mist them again just before starting.
Best practices require at least 7, and much prefered 28, damp days between coats. A damp day means the stucco is wet or damp for 24 hours. Better best is to insure the stucco never fully drys out for that time period.
Stucco; seismicaly the best; generaly the most versatile siding ever invented. JMHO (|:>)
SamT
Now if I could just remember that I am a businessman with a hammer and not a craftsman with a business....."anonymous". . .segundo