Replies

1. 
   Chad_Sutter | Jan 27, 1999 12:26am | #1

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   Albert,

   Believe it or not, one of the first things to look for is longevity and experience of the manufacturer. It goes a long way. Next consider construction and materials and NWWDA ratings. That's the National Wood Window and Door Association. The better the rating the better the window. I've upgraded my 1914 home with aluminum clad (extruded not wrapped), thermally glazed (3 panes w/ argon & low-E coating) wood windows. The wood on my windows is treated for water resistance, rot & decay, insect prevention, etc. It is then clad on the exterior for low (zero) maintenance and to prevent warping. All of this comes at a cost. Durability and longevity can be expensive, or you can get cheaper windows and pass problems on to the future resident. I'd do some research into the NWWDA or the NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council). They should be able to pass on some guidelines. I'd also advise sticking with a major manufacturer like Marvin or some of the other heavy hitters. I've toured some of thier factories and am very confident in thier products and follow-up.

   As for cost, I estimate windows anywhere between $25/s.f. up to $75/s.f. depending on type and options.

   Good luck on your upgrading.

1. 
   Don_ | Jan 27, 1999 04:49am | #2

   *Chad, I agree with your advice on selecting windows that basically you get what you pay for. However could you clarify your cost estimates. It can't relate to total house sq.ft. If it is based on window size then your lowest estimate is high end in my book.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jan 27, 1999 06:25am | #3

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   Agreed. I've been a Marvin booster -- the only brand I have experience with -- and paid $300 per all-wood double-glazed true-muntin double-hung window. Lets see, the rough opening was about 3x5 or 15 sf if that helps. Definitely not the thermal performance of all the low-E and argon stuff (I hear krypton gas is the latest thing, anyway), but a beautiful quality window. We paid MUCH more for two bay windows constructed of casements, but the transformation of our curb appeal is stunning. Windows are a critical detail to a house's appearance and performance, be careful.

   I'm not a zero-maintenance kind of guy either; what would I do with all the spare time? Every ten years or so I expect to redo the windows, but I'll be sick of the color (gloss white) by then anyway.

3. 
   brian_r | Jan 27, 1999 07:47am | #4

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   we have been putting in some anderson casement windows lately. They cost about $500 for a 4'x5' with screens & hardware but appear to be good windows. The exteriors are vinyl and the interior wood. The low e glass is much thicker (about 1/2") than standard double pane windows (1/8"??). These windows are very heavy and sturdy but makes us nervous when installing (how much does it cost to replace a broken sash??)especially on the second floor off scaffolding. It appears this company spends a lot of time on detail compared to our standard lumber yard windows.

1. 
   NJkwan | Jan 27, 1999 03:50pm | #5

   *For a good window, check for the look and the sturdiness and the square of the jamb. For a double hung windows, check the material and the connectors of the mechanism that keeps the sashes in place. Some will be obviously weak, such as nylon string. Go for name brands or those brands supported by large home centers. I don't like casements because they have no give, it seems, and over time you may find that either windows droop or jambs go out of square or opening mechanisms wear out, and they are expensive to replace. As for the insulation values, you say you have an old house? In your case, you should think more about stopping draft than insulation values. Triple glaze may have more R value, but expensive. Gas fillings don't seem to raise the R value compared to their price. Low-E may help from curtains or furnitures fade. If your old windows can't stop the draft, consider simple double glaze with low-E. Hope this helps.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jan 27, 1999 10:05pm | #6

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   Check Understanding Energy Efficent Windows in FHB #114, and lay hands on a copy of Residential Windows: A Guide to New Technologies and Energy Performance, by John Carmody and others. Published by WW Norton & Co. 1996. It should still have reasonably current information.

5. 
   dudley_ | Jan 27, 1999 10:08pm | #7

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   I just replaced 20 windows with Andersen Windows -- I think they are works of art. They are just a beautiful sight to see from the street, from the interior they have improved the appearance, sound from the street and made the whole house seem solid. I have long been an Andersen buyer and belive the $ you pay for them are well worth the any extra $.

1. 
   David_Pybas | Jan 29, 1999 05:35am | #8

   *It's wonderful to have 2X and even 3X windows, but one never sees the payback. Take your annual energy cost (be silly and assume that your energy cost is 25% because of the 1X windows,) and assume also that these new 3X windows will completely obliviate those costs. Now take the cost of your windows (let's say $400 per double hung for an Andersen) at $4,000 for 10 of the little guys. Let's also assume that your energy cost is $1,000 per year.It'll take you 16 years at these ridiculously overestimated costs to arrive at your breakeven point. Fancy windows look new, but they don't pay. On the other hand, if you've got the money, they are more comfortable on a night when an Alberta clipper is blowing in. Just an opinion.regards,dave

6. 
   Albert_Haws | Jan 29, 1999 05:35am | #9

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   What makes a window a good window? I will be in need of only around 10 new windows come spring and several replacements. I have read here several post about people replacing 5 year old units that were already bad. Yes i know there is alot of things to consider, i live in a home well over 100 years old and want the new units to last at least half as long as these have. I am looking for window units in the ball park of 250. to 300$ What is the most important features should i look for in a window ect. Thanks, any advice would be great.