If the metal roofing was on your house, I would not re-use it; if it’s salvageable and not all bent and torn up, it might be useable on a shed or something.
The purlins that your roofing was screwed to can be on 24″ centers, but should be nailed to the rafters.
I wouldn’t use utility 1X4’s for the purlins….use #2 and Better; you’re less likely to have defects in critical areas. The price difference is negligeable…..especially right now….lumber is pretty rock bottom.
Replies
Can I reuse the metal roof? If so, what the best way to "plug" the holes from the orginal screws?
ya, you can reuse it -
if you can't run your nailers (screw-ers) in a configuration to reuse the holes, I'd suggest slapping a 2"X2" patch of 'ice and water shield' (self adhesive roll underlayment) on the back side, install and then put a dab of 'tar' on each hole -
put your new nailers ~2' on center - 3/4" 'utility' lumber is pretty cheap/flimsy - how thick is your plywood? - might be be able to get by with it if you use screws long enough to catch both the nailers and sheathing - certainly better to use 5/4 or 1.5" material tho -
is that "Ice sheild" stuff pricy?
$50 for a 2 square roll -
about 500% more than you need -
check with a roofer and see if you can score some cut-off scraps - or just dab the holes with tar - you might have to maintanence every few years -
If this is a barn roof, I would maybe attempt to use it again.
if it flexed much in the storm, it may have fatigue spots that will leak sooner than later, so a house roof is not a candidate.
To fill the old nail holes, what I would do is re-install this with the screw type fasteners with neoprene washers on pattern and add more of them wherever an old nail hole exists. Much simpler that way than the process David has detailed, and probably more foolproof.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
5/4 (or standard and better 1 x4) material no more than 24"o.c. fastened into the rafters .
Use screws as Piffen recomended to fasten the metal roofing, You can also buy short "stitcher " screws that are used for fastening metal trim on pole barn metal to fill the old holes that you aren't using to fasten the roof metal down. They are a larger shank diameter and will "Bite" into the old metal better without penetrating the plywood roof sheathing.
Want to go upscale? Felt the roof with 15# felt , then lay wood lathe directly atop the rafters, then the 5/4 at 24" o.c. then your roofing. The lathe keeps the 5/4 off the roof deck and allows any leaks to drain out the eave.
I agree fully with using the Piffen Screws.
BUT!!!! Don't use "drywall" screws. There are screws that are designed for that purpose. You should use them.
Piffen can certainly guide you to a source, but McFeely is one good place for construction screws.
'scuse this off on the side correction - The term piffin screws comes from my unrelenting effort to get people to quit using SR screws for any purpose other than sheetrock, because they fracture and break in other more stressfull applications. So SR screws hae come to be called Piffin screws.The fasteners I was calling for here would be the metal to wood tec screws made for steel roofing.Or you may have been thinking about the furring fasteners to the rafters - certainly use structuralscrews there like deck screws or GRKs
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Do you know what the fivequarter refers to?... two deuce and a quarters plus one that's over halfway rusted out<G>?? Oh God said to Abraham, "Kill me a son"
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."
I humbly accept the correction.
I tried to look up the origin of the name a while ago, and was not really able to find the thread. Too many "piffen screw" references!!!
I (as I think is clear from my message) was under the impression that GOOD screws were "piffin screws" (such as those square drive things from McFeely that pull the square bit from my driver)
just a paradoxical inside joke.
Thanks fo4r the compliment.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
How big are the holes?
And, when you say 5/4 are you talking about 5 vee roofing, or the framing to which the roof was "attached?"
Also, were the old fasteners through the ridges of the roofing?
Abe says, "Man, you must be puttin' me on"
God say, "No." Abe say, "What?"
God say, "You can do what you want Abe, but
The next time you see me comin' you better run"
Well Abe says, "Where do you want this killin' done?"
God says, "Out on Highway 61."
You can do your layout even ly at 24" oc or whatever, but still use more screws. They are made up to 2" long at least, so with 3/4" furring, you should stil be able to get a purchase threading into th eunderlying plywood - or use oversized metal to metal tec screws and add a dab of geocel caulk at each hole you fill.
Just be sure if you use longer fasteners over voids that you do not tighten too much and deform the metal.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!