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no response?

hez | Posted in General Discussion on January 23, 2005 02:12am

I posted a question a couple days go about ceramic tiles and didn’t receive any response.I’m new to this site …am I doing something wrong or is this normal?Any help would be appreciated.

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  1. Frankie | Jan 23, 2005 02:17am | #1

    When you are new, posts go through a screening process and that can take time until the powers that be become aquainted with you.

    Good things take time.

    Welcome aboard.

    F

    Edit: If you got your message posted and nobody answered, go to your post as a reply and type "bump" in the new post box. That will bring it to the front of the list of posts and allow others who may have missed it the first time around to see it. Then again, maybe no on is interested - LOL!

    F



    Edited 1/22/2005 6:21 pm ET by Frankie

    1. hez | Jan 23, 2005 02:22am | #3

      Thanks for the reply.If you have time give it a look and tell me what you think.

  2. EdJW | Jan 23, 2005 02:21am | #2

    Dean, you can try this forum, these guys are tile experts. http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1

     

    1. hez | Jan 23, 2005 02:50am | #8

      Checked out the site,seems someone else had the same question.Thanks.

      1. User avater
        Sailfish | Jan 23, 2005 02:55am | #9

        Welcome Dean!

        I'm fairly new here as well. But what a great bunch of people!! Taunton has certainly put together and EXCELLENT product. Not only here, but have you looked at their publications!?!?!?! A- Number one is all I can say. But I digress.

        Welcome aboard!!!!! I have found everyone here real helpful, and responsive to threads. Sometimes, as another fine member posted, a thread will just slip through the cracks.

        Oh be sure to ask about the free hat. I'm still waiting...................................-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

        "It is so, because Piffin tells me it is."

         

         

        1. hez | Jan 23, 2005 03:01am | #11

          Been a subscriber to FH and FW for awhile now.Great mags and now I've found a great site.Thanks for the welcome.

          Edited 1/22/2005 7:04 pm ET by DeanM

        2. zendo | Jan 23, 2005 10:26pm | #17

          Sail,

          Youre old school,

          and what hat I didnt know there was a hat involved.

          I wanna frickin hat

          -zen

          1. User avater
            CapnMac | Jan 24, 2005 11:24pm | #19

            I wanna frickin hat

            Shoot, if it's a free hat, I don't really care if it's a celibate or non-celibate hat--long as it's free <g>

            'Course Sail's BT hat would need to have a long front brim to be "right" . . . <G>Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

  3. McFish | Jan 23, 2005 02:24am | #4

       I Think some posts just get buried.  There are folks here who take it upon themselves to recycle the ones that dont get answered.  What was the title?  I'll look for it and send it back to the top.

                                                                              Tom

    1. hez | Jan 23, 2005 02:27am | #6

      The title is ..ceramic tiles

  4. hez | Jan 23, 2005 02:25am | #5

    No,I'm Dean,care to enlighten me on this?

  5. UncleDunc | Jan 23, 2005 02:41am | #7

    >> ... and didn't receive any response.

    It happens sometimes. I don't think you did anything wrong.

    One thing about your original post that puzzled me was this line, "I've tried removal which is near impossible." I don't understand how removing ceramic tile from a sound concrete floor can be nearly impossible. Tedious, perhaps, especially with inadequate tools, but nowhere near impossible.

    So my advice was going to be, try harder to get the existing tile up. That didn't seem terribly helpful, so I didn't post anything.

    The John Bridge forum at http://www.johnbridge.com specializes in tile. For tile specific questions, you might do better there.

    1. hez | Jan 23, 2005 02:55am | #10

      What would you recommend for removal?The homeowner is living there so I'm trying to keep the mess and noise to a minimum.

      1. UncleDunc | Jan 23, 2005 03:18am | #12

        I'd start with an air hammer with a broad chisel bit, and serious hearing protection, plugs and muffs both. If the chisel digs divots in the concrete trying to clean up the thinset, switch to a needle scaler.I sympathize with wanting to minimize noise and dust, and if you and the customers are happy tiling over tile, that may be the best approach.

    2. jrnbj | Jan 23, 2005 06:52am | #13

      I've come across tile that would have taken dynamite to remove...on a commercial job that had 300+ baths to demo....we ended up tileing over existing.....

      1. UncleDunc | Jan 23, 2005 07:20am | #14

        What did they stick it on with?

        1. jrnbj | Jan 23, 2005 10:11pm | #16

          No idea....we tried using mini-jack hammers.....the tile split, leaving the bottom half still stuck to the slab....kind of like spliting wood that's been face glued...I'm sure we could have gotten it up eventually, but until you do hotel room renovations you've never really had a tight building schedule.....

      2. MikeSmith | Jan 23, 2005 07:26am | #15

        dean... tile removal on a concrete floor involves noise & mess

        i'd rent one of the tile removal machines froma well-stocked rental place

        the machine looks like a heavy chrome vacumn cleaner on wheels... it has a vibratory chisel nose about 12" wide.. you get it started and move it forward ripping and breaking tiles....it's like a motorized roof shingle ripper, only it's for tiles..

         it's also used for ripping asbestos tiles ( the old "vinyl tiles " )

        if you don't want a motorized one.. then get a roof ripper blade.. it's a metal pole with a bolted on blade, used for ripping built-up roofing... the blade is replaceable and you can sharpen it with a file, this blade is about 6" wide, maybe 1/8" thick

         

        or a digging tool.. solid steel bar about 5' long with a  chisel  end about 3" wide  x 3/4 " thick... usually has a tamping end  on the other end..

         they all come down to the same thing.. ripping and breaking the tile and groutMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

  6. ClaysWorld | Jan 24, 2005 08:36pm | #18

    I've had good luck using a brick chisel-3" wide and if you get it under the edge and wack it the whole tile would pop off. Also a flat chisel on a air impact, the same one you use for muffler cutting but with a flat chisel. You need to use the flat blade as opposed to a point.

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