We have recently added on 1000 sq ft addition (500 up/500 down). The main floor has ten foot ceilings. We used “Silent Floor” (I think that is what the system is called) as the base for our second floor. The main floor will be a kitchen/sitting area and upstairs will be a master bedroom/bath/closet. Main floor flooring is concrete with radiant floor heating; upstairs we are leaning to real wood. It would not bother me to lose some ceiling height in exchange for less noise. Would anyone have any suggestions as to what can be used to stop/reduce noise transmission between the first and second floors?
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Fledgeling,
Hang your ceiling rock on resilient channel, taking care that the screws don't bridge to the joists. Double layer of 5/8" floating like this will help hugely. Check USG's site for more sound details.
Also, use the "advanced search" function in Breaktime. Soundproofing is discussed a lot here.
Bill
Do an advanced search for thread #52377.1!..............Iron Helix
Ditto the suggestion for RC channel.
I have also glued and screwed strips of rock to the underside of the subfloor. Two layers of 5/8" in each joist bay will deaden the plywood quite a bit.
I have seen a job where they laid the subfloor, laid down a layer of hardibacker, and then another layer of plywood, which would reduce the drumhead effect of the upper floor.
What Bill said plus buy some fibreglass insulation for steel studs. It is full 16 inches wide so it fits nice inbetween the silent floor joists in the centre.
Have a good day
Cliffy
Dear fledgling,
I recently went through this for two multi-family type of developments, and it was mighty difficult. The New York State Building Code now requires a Sound Transmission Coefficient (STC) of 50 AND an Impact Insulation Class (IIC) rating also of 50. The more dense you make something, the higher the STC rating, but the easier that impact sounds are transmittted too. We ended up using Homasote SoundBoard 440 for both projects. We used it over the subfloor in both applications, with resilient furring on the ciling below
Andrew
Architect
(1) Pack the joist bays with Roxul Safe-N-Sound; and
(2) Nail 1x3 furring under the joists with rubber sound-deadening pads at each intersection, and then screw the gyprock to the furring with another layer of sound-deadening strips in between the 1x3 and the gyprock.
Or just wear slippers in the house instead of high heels. Makes all the difference in the world....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
Fledgling,
The best sound deadener is foam (sprayed in not rigid) .. it prevents joists from vibrating and transmitting sound as well as doing an extremely nice job of both stiffening the floor above and keeping sound transmission to a minimum..
Have your foaming contractor come in a spray a blanket of foam after all the wiring /plumbing/HVAC etc. is in place but prior to sheetrocking the ceiling..
Below is the "trailer" to an article in the FHB archives that has some info. It has an interesting way to load the floor top with sand that worked well. I thought it was novel as most aproaches focus on the underside with RC channel, multiple layers, and stuffing the bays with FG, rockwool, or foam.
I have this link to a company making an advanced RC channel (http://www.pac-intl.com/index.html). I bet it costs some $$ though. But better get it right the first time. Tearing out two layers of DW ceiling to redo would motivate the hell out of me. Generally RC confused me with different makers having different gauges/thicknesses, hole spacings, etc. I found enough websites saying that RC doesn't do a thing if its not perfect.
Also, I don't think anyone mentioned that blocking all air transmission is as important as anything, kinda like insulating.
eric
November 1986
Soundproofing a Music Studio
by Gene De Smidt
Some practical solutions to noise pollution
A part-time musician creates a sound studio at home with inexpensive, readily available materials that absorb sound, such as gypsum drywall, fiberglass batt insulation, and even dry sand. The key here is low-tech efficiency.
Remember that sound can travel wherever air can. Seal every hole and caulk everything.