Replies

1. 
   zendo | Feb 02, 2005 03:12am | #1

   Marc, could the piece of railing be a 2 part where the top cap comes off for installation? You may have gotten one of those in the mix. Other wise you have to cut to length and drill the ends for a rail bolt.

   You can take a look around at ljsmith.com, and if you need directions they have downloadable, or go to whoever supplied the rail.

   -zen

    

2. 
   Sphere | Feb 02, 2005 03:27am | #2

   probably a hanger bolt with a star nut, these are pretty common. A bolt with a lag thread on one end and a machine thread on t'other. The Star nut is like a wavy edged nut, you can titen it with a straight slot type screw driver, from within the recess.

   I'll dig one up and post a pic if the world cooperates.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "I've..seen all good people turn thier heads, so, satisfied, I am on my way.."They kill prophets for profits"..And, that's...the truth.........phhatt

3. 
   bruceb | Feb 02, 2005 03:56am | #3

   beeb,

                           L.J smith has a Handbook that will walk you thru it. Also, if you buy quality parts there will be instructions inside that will show all. The 1" oak plug hides what is called a " Rail Bolt". If you are going to use one you would do well to get a real one, not that silly knurled nut thing H.D usually sells.

                          L.J smith makes by far the best Rail Bolts. They have a Plastic washer that is contourd to the 1" hole you'll be drilling and a flanged nut that is easy for the rail bolt wrench to grab. L.J. SMith Rail Bolt Wrenches also have a template one one end that helps lay out all the holes you'll need to drill. If you are goig to do this more thanonce I suggest you get one. A railbolt runner for your drill wouldn't hurt either ( You'll need a 1/2" chuck drill).

                          You might also want to investigate Connect-A-Kit parts. They have a rail cap that pops off. you cut the part, pop the cap off, make the connection and then glue the cap back on. I've probably installed 2,000 stair rails in my lifetime. I preffer the standard parts and can work faster with them but then again I have all the tools for that kind of work. For a one time thing I would lok at Connect-A-Kit.

                    The best way to connest that piece is to Railbolt it to the Newel that the Gooseneck runs into and then screw it to the other post. I drill a 1/2' hole halfway thru the Newel post at a hieght that would be in the middle of the rail. I then finish the hole with a 1/4" bit. I slide the rail in place over the rail bolt on one end and start the rail bolt. Next i position the rail against the other newel in the position it needs to be in ( I rest it on a clamp that I attach to the newel block. the clamp is level across the block at the hieght of the bottom of the rail) Next I screw thru the newel with a 3" #10 stainless coarse screw ( not one with threads all the way to the head. They fail to suck the rail up tight and are prone to breaking)Hold the rail and tighten the screw until the rail is tight against the post. Next, tighten the Rail bolt ( A tip, when sliding the rail over the bolt, hold the rail upside down and slide the nut on a finish nail. Next touch the nail to the end of the bolt and let the nut slide down. It should slide right on and you can start it with your finger than turn the rail over.)

               If it's from post to rail, the easiest and cleanest way is to attach a rossette to the end of the rail where it meets the wall. I use a 2" #12 screw. Pre drill. Next I slide the rail over the bolt and start the nut. I turn the rail over and position it in place ( I mark it out before hand and actually draw an outline of the rossette on the wall) and pin it with my finish nailer. Then I drill 1/2" holes 1/2 thru the rossette and 1/4" holes all the way thru. I then screw it to the wall with 21/2" #12 screws.I plug the holoes with 1/2 oak plugs ( make sure the grain goes the same way).

           Another way is to put the rail bolt in the wall and then Screw thru the newel from the gooseneck side. Do the level rail before the gooseneck. Make sure you layout where you'll screw the Level rail from and where you plan on drilling and screwing the  gooseneck from. That way the screws don't hiot or worse yet you don't drill into a 1/2" hole and have to drill again.

            Hope this was more help than confusuion. If you need more let me know and you can E-mail me at work or even call me there and I'll walk you thru it.

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 02, 2005 04:22am | #4

   thanks for saving me a whole lot of "piffin" typeing...I am on a bad keyboard............way to go bro'. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "I've..seen all good people turn thier heads, so, satisfied, I am on my way.."They kill prophets for profits"..And, that's...the truth.........phhatt

1. 
   bruceb | Feb 02, 2005 06:03am | #5

    Any time, All Knowledge not used in what seems like a lifetime.  Whole different skill set in use now. I can Iron and starch Cargo Pockets flat and stiff as a board. I've almost got that Sam Elliot look and voice down from " We Were soldiers" and the other day I think I almost made a Private cry. Stair Rails were still more fun. Ironically they didn't pay any better.

    By the way, What exactly is "Piffin Typeing"?

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 02, 2005 06:41am | #6

   LOL...piffen typeing is like theI wpild of answered yer qetind witha smataxz respone, but my Wiks made me doit om her bask.Oh God, he's gunna kill me 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "I've..seen all good people turn thier heads, so, satisfied, I am on my way.."They kill prophets for profits"..And, that's...the truth.........phhatt

4. 
   Dakota1695 | Feb 02, 2005 04:04pm | #7

   Coffman also has a very good guide to stair parts and assembly. If for nothing else it is worth it to double check the material list. You can also check out the on line book stores for construction books.