I have an wedge shaped area in which I am going to build a shed. The back side will follow the angle of the fence, the front will be built straight (parallel to the house). The style of the shed is a simple gable shed. One end of the shed will be 4′ wide, the other side 8′ wide, the front will be 12′ in length and the back (the angled side that will follow the fence line) will be 12′ 8″.
How should I design the roof and how do you calculate the rafter angles? I would like the front of the roof line to run parallel to the house. If the peak is centered at the center of the 4′ side (2′ center), the wider side will look odd and have a very steep angle in the front (2′ from the front and 6′ from the back).
Any ideas on how to approach the roof?
Replies
KC,
What pitch are you looking for?
I've attached a drawing of what i think you've describe. If it's right I would make the gable the 12' direction with all the commons the same length until you get to the other end on the 4' side that will be a valley with valley rafters and the 8' side it would be a hip with hip jacks and the hip and valley would be the same size. That's how I frame them and it's not as hard as you think.
With the dimensions you gave 12' facing your house and 8' on one end and 4' the other end the angled wall would be 12' 7-13/16 to be exact and that's what you would cut that wall at.
Thanks Joe!
I did not even think of running the gable the length of the shed! As soon as I saw your diagram it all made sense.
This will be my first time making trusses, but I think I can handle it. I will let you know how it turns out.
Kevin
How kinky do ya wanna get ???
Check out the roof on building in this thread:
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=40931.1
Hey, I want to keep it simple. Joe's suggestion is going to be difficult enough for a novice like me.
That's one heck of a roof you built! Your right, only an architect.
As for the pitch, I was going to go with a 4/12 pitch?
KC
The pitch is personal preference, mostly. I tend to like more than 4/12 personally. It would probably be wise to try to roughly match the existing house as much as possible so the addition looks in charachter with it.
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KC,If you tell me what pitch do you want to use I can give you the dimensions for the commons, hip and valley rafters. The angle that the hip and valley runs at is already thereThe first drawing I did wasn't the correct amount of rafters, I just drew it real quick but if you want 16" centers this next drawing is what you would need.Joe Carola
Hi Joe,
Here's what I have come up with. I will go with a 6/12 pitch and a 6" overhang (therefore total 13' span). The commons would therfore need to be 7' 3 3/16" (I haven't figured out the hip and jack rafters yet...don't realy know how), total rise would be approx. 3' 12". I am going to go with a 24" center to accomodate the skylight.
I have the walls framed and will start on the roof on Sunday, so far things are going pretty good.
KC
KC,If you didn't cut the hip and valley yet the lengths without the ridge deduction would be with your Hip running at 71.57°.Hip/Valley - 84" (Without Overhang) 91" (With Overhang)Cheek Cuts would be 18.43° (Top and Bottom)Plumbcut/Pitch Angle - 25.38° or (Set square @ 5-11/16/12)
Level cut - 64.62° (seatcut)The hip jack and valley jack would have a 71.57° angle to cut as they hit the hip and valley.Your ridge would be 6' from the center of the ridge.What are you using for a Ridge?Joe Carola
I was just going to use a 2 X 4 for the ridge. I figured that would be OK since the roof is small.
KC
Use at least a 2x8. Waht sort of snow and wind loads you get?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I am in Southern California, so no snow. The winds get up there at times, however nothing really extreme. I will go with 2X8. Thanks.
Hi Joe,
Here are some pictures on how it is going (don't worry I'm not done, there are still some holes to fill in). I started with a 6/12 pitch, but it just didn't look right, so I did what every weekend hacker does....trial and error. I think I wound up with a 5/12 pitch. It sure took me awhile to figure it out (of course I had to stop few times and have a beer and cigar while figuring things out). It took me a bit longer because I didn't have any help for most of the day.
However most of the hard figuring is done, the rest should be easy. I will send pictures of the completed job.
Whyfor we never saw a floor plan of that building ?Kinda hard to figure out what you meant when you talked about those twisty-turny rafter thingys...
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
You mean the wierd "twisted" one I did the roof trusses for?Never thought about it. Maybe I can do that Monday and post it in that thread if ya like. And remember - They're TRUSSES, not freakin' RAFTERS.
I read an article that said the way to achieve inner peace is to finish everything you start.
Today I finished two bags of potato chips, a chocolate pie, a bottle of wine and a small box of chocolate candy. I feel better already.
First pertinent question in my mind on this one, is whether or not you need a permit or cna get a permnit to build in this way. Most locations require a certain setback from property lines, anywhere from 6' to 25'. There are valid safety reasons for this. In areas wheere you are a;llowed to perch it that close to the property line, you might be liable for damages if runoff from your roof does any erosion or other damge to adjacent property.
Going beyond that, I like Joe's scetch, but the most simple would be a 'flat' roof with minimal pitch. That decision would be dependent on prevailing architectural styles nearby and the climate and the purpose of this 'shed'
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!