Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 2000 12:04am | #5

   *
   Hey guys...what's your take on this debacle?

   My "helper" inadvertantly laid a few bundles of cedar roofing butt tight on a small shed roof 8' x 8'. Not the end of the world but I don't want to do the work over. He said, and I trust him, that he's worked with experienced roofers laying dozens of squares of shingles this way and there were no problems. I know the codes and cedar bureau recommend a spacing but is that set in stone? Is it just a matter of time before these shingles buckle or will the fibers just get crushed together in the first rain and then space themselves a bit? Any and all responses would be appreciated.

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 2000 07:19am | #1

   *All the ones I've installed were always stored outside and already pretty wet- wouldn't think they would swell. It always seems like the gap opens after they are up for a while.

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 2000 11:03pm | #2

   *...i know he said that , & he may have laid dozens that way... but he's wrong....all he has to do is read the label that comes with every bundle and it will tell him to space them on a roof.....

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   Chris_Aldrich | Apr 08, 2000 05:04am | #3

   *All the cedar roofs we do, we lay them butt tight! The cedar we get is always kept outside and is usealy vary wet. We have never had a problem with buckling. Our roofs look great from the time there installed to many year to come because there is not a huge space in between each shingle.

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   Guest_ | Apr 09, 2000 12:01am | #4

   *Well at the prices they get for cedar around here , they don't store them outside...on a roof our favorite is a #1 perfection Thick butt, and right out of the bundle it will be bone dry... since it is NOT a rebutted/resquared all you have to do to get the right spacing is lay them touching each other , don't jamb them , just make contact, and the splay (out of square of the shingle) will almost automatically space them....if you get some barn doors, notch the top , and nail an extra nail in the middle to tell the shingle where you want it to split when it decides to split, then nail your next course joint -off -joint avoiding the extra nail as if it were a joint (because it will be soon)...lay joint-off-joint by at least one inch for three courses.....i assume we're all talking about the same thing ... when you guys say tight (ROOFS only) you mean contact... no one is fitting these , right? BTW.. when we're laying big roofs, we like the 16' prime finger joint 1x6 as our furring, no measure, easy racking, and adjust the last ten courses as you near the ridge...now , sidewall, we can start the discussion all over..