Coming back from vacation, I find the heat off and the house at 40?. Called the emergency Line and the guy came and fixed the Oil burner
HW Baseboard Heating system. I have plenty of Oil and the system was checked out on Dec. 24th and it did run fine. I was told the oil pump created cavitation and the air bubbles in the line stopped the burner from firing up. To prevent this from happen again I was told to install a “” Tiger Loop “” between the oil tank and the oil pump.
The oil tanks are inside. From the tank to the burner the pipe goes under concrete for about 20 feet to the pump. One pipe only, it is a single loop. So what is this thing -Tiger Loop- to prevent bubbles?
Hilmar
Edited 3/2/2008 2:56 pm ET by h12721
Replies
Here's a reference on a "tiger loop"
http://www.steamshop.com/Westwood%20-%20Tiger%20Loop%20Oil%20De-Aerator.htm
when was the last time the unit was serviced i.e. oil filter change?
Does the system have 2 lines from the oil tank to the burner?
al
We have one, well actually 3 of them. Feeding 3 boilers from one 4000 gallon tank in a vault. It was done as insurance so I can't say if it was the prevention for failure as I also insulated the vault. Temp after all the work has never been lower than 55 in the vault. (It's on a remote temp reader) I was certain that cold oil was my reason for failure to fire. The oil was so cold in the pipe you couldn't hold your hand on it even after the 100 foot run inside a 72 degree building.
Fuel oil turns to jelly when cold.
You could also install a day tank but it's more money.
http://www.westwoodproducts.com/tigerloop_article.htm
Thanks Guys for the Information. I will get one of the tigers.
Hilmar
Eleft, read my post.
You shouldn't need a Tiger Loop. How old is that line under the floor? Hope it's in a sleeve?
If the fuel pump starved for oil I would replace the fuel filter, pump strainer (if Sunstrand) and blow out the oil line. I would bet the problem is in the oil line. Is the filter on the tank or the pump?
Mike,
the line under the floor a 1/4 or 3/8 cooper is about 25 years old.
Yes it is in a rubber or so sleeve.
The fuel filter was replaced in December 2007 the 24th. Once a Year I have a service don and all runs under a service contract. For one Year about $250.00 witch includes all parts and labor for one Year. It conks out about twice or three times a Year. It is OK as long as I am home. But when away and 0? it is a bitch. The tanks are clean. The reason, I did it myself last year. The line was blown out a number of times. The filter is on the tanks 20-25 feet to the pump.
Soooo what is next???
Hilmar
Edited 3/8/2008 7:20 pm ET by h12721
Hmmmm (scratching my head) so when he came he had to bleed the pump to get it going?
If the oil flows by gravity I don't see why it would cavitate. The burner only uses a gallon or so an hour. Has he put a vacuum gauge on it??
May be not this time, but in the past yes. It's not all ways the same guy.
Hilmar
There shouldn't be much if any vacuum.
Is there anything between the pump and the oil filter like a check valve or Firmatic valve?
Fuel pump strainer been replaced?
Do these guys know what the other is doing?
I will be out the rest of the evening.
Mike
oil filter + 20 -25ft of cooper tubing.
Strainer been replaced, Yes.
It only happens in the Winter. In the Summer Time the boiler is used only for domestic hoot water. I don't have a hoot water reservoir.
Hilmar
From what info we have...I'd agree that you really shouldn't need a TL. (Provided the link to article because you asked about them.) Not unless the oil delivered in winter is really agitated and full of air bubbles when delivered at cold temps. How long since the last delivery before the thing fell on its face? Very soon after and entrained air might be a problem. Not likely though.
All manner of malfunctions besides fuel delivery problems can cause a trip and no fire. Worn nozzle throwing bad pattern or drip......bad transformer.......worn electrodes with too wide of a gap.....poor electrical connection between transformer and the electrodes, etc.....or a combination of stuff.
But winter only failure makes it harder to decipher. Chimney downdrafts of heavy cold air impeding establishment of exhaust draft......in turn snuffing out fire.
Does the guy try just resetting the control before bleeding line?....or is bleeding required to start up again? If bleeding is absolutely required, fuel delivery becomes highly suspect.
Fuel might be a bit thicker in winter even if tank is inside. Choked /impeded old supply line adding to delivery problem. How cold is the basement in winter compared to summer? Pinhole in old line or fitting sucking air because of slightly thicker fuel?
How long since the fuel/combustion air mix has been checked/adjusted? Warmer fuel & air in summer might make the difference. Winter takes it over the edge on occasion with both colder air and fuel.
Try checking the transformer to electrode connections maybe. Doesn't cost much or take much time. The newer cheaper electrodes rods I encounter rust fairly rapidly and that isn't good for conductivity. Older ones didn't rust for years and years. If rust is present on those rods, take a piece of steel wool or fine grit paper to the connecting surfaces.
If electrode gap is too great or mis-aligned....adjust or replace.
Serviced and fixed one about 2 months ago that also seemed to only fail them in winter. No problems making hot water in summer. 1947 model. <G> 25 below when the call came. Took a while to find, but problem was inside the transformer. Spark would arc to case because tiny spot of insulation was worn off a lead inside transformer case. Witness marks confirmed that once the case was opened up. A few wraps of tape is all it took. Hasn't failed since. They're happy, I'm happy. They'll be replacing with new boiler come spring. This '47 fella doesn't owe them anything. Pretty much impossible to find parts. ...thankfully.
Edited 3/10/2008 12:45 am ET by HootOwl