Replies

1. 
   Waters | Apr 15, 2007 06:57am | #1

   A lot of folks do no vapor barrier here in the rainy PAC NW with it's extremely wet winters and heating season.

   Dry winters back in WI 4mil vapor barrier was standard practice, under the drywall.

    

2. 
   DanH | Apr 15, 2007 07:41am | #2

   Profile?? Where do you live.

   Except for fairly far south the vapor barrier never goes on the outside. Of course, housewrap is not a vapor barrier.

   Plaster with multiple coats of paint often is a good vapor barrier, but penetrations (outlets), floor and ceiling junctions, wall intersections, etc, can be a problem.

   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
1. 
   guyatwork | Apr 15, 2007 09:14pm | #3

   Central Indiana.

   Its cold one day and hot the next. lows in winter as cold as single digits and highs around 100 in the summer.

    

1. 
   DanH | Apr 15, 2007 09:43pm | #4

   Vapor barrier is probably not necessary. What IS necessary, especially with standard density fiberglass, is to carefully seal any air leaks on the inside envelope. What you don't want is warm, moist air from inside being drawn through, eg, an electrical outlet and up/out via a "chimney effect". This can deposit a LOT of moisture in the insulation.

   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

1. 
   guyatwork | Apr 15, 2007 11:39pm | #5

   ok then heres the plan.

   fiberglass batts, unfaced, foam all electrical holes and leaks, housewrap, new siding.

   Since there is never an outlet where we need one I was also planning to put outlets in and wire them from the basement.

   Hopefully next winter will be warmer and wealthier.

   thanks

    

1. 
   DanH | Apr 15, 2007 11:48pm | #6

   So I gather that this place is currently sided in wood, unsheathed, and uninsulated?
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   guyatwork | Apr 15, 2007 11:53pm | #7

   you got it.

   5-1/4" poplar lap, true 2 x 4, lath, plaster.

   Lots of fun to open when you have to get to the plumbing inside.

    

3. 
   DanH | Apr 15, 2007 11:57pm | #8

   Just out of curiosity, what will you use for sheathing? And for siding?
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

   Edited 4/15/2007 5:44 pm by DanH

4. 
   guyatwork | Apr 16, 2007 12:02am | #9

   not planning on sheathing I would have to put extension jambs on too many windows and doors. i am planing on running t brace from the top plate to the sill plate as corners get exposed. I dont want to go to far without some sort of corner bracing. Hopefully theres something already on there for a corner brace. If its like the rest of the house there isn't.

   The addition will have sheathing but I can plan for that and hide it.

   oh yea i am planning on using hardiplank or equivelant and metal corners instead of one bys on the corners

    

   Edited 4/15/2007 10:08 pm ET by guyatwork