Small bath ceramic tile job.
Tore down to floor joists and ready for subfloor.
Most recommend minimal inch and a quarter thickness for subfloor.
Besides a layer of 3/4ply and a glue/screw to 1/2, is there a single sheet product available as an adequate subfloor base?
Thanks.
Replies
I thought 3/4 inch ply and 1/2 inch durock mudded and screwed satisfied the inch and a quarter requirement.
I know it's still two steps, but I'm assuming you were gonna lay down cement board on top of even 1 1/4 plywood.
Edited 4/10/2008 1:01 pm ET by IamtheWalrus
Didn't know that about the durock product.
As I understood it the inch and a quarter is strictly for a strength factor of which a cement board product does not supply but I've been wrong before. Once.
Rethinking the strategy in such a small area I'll probably just glue and screw and be done with it then use a quarterinch cementboard.
Unless something better shows itself.
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You're right; the Durock isn't structural.
You can get 1¼" ply (probably need to special-order it, tho). It's used a lot by concrete contractors here for forms. For a big job, it might be worth it. I wouldn't bother for this small job of yours.
Run the joist spacing and scantlings through the JohnBridge flex calculator (http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl) then decide what you need for subfloor, and scroo-n-gloo it.
I would not use ¼" cement board; it's too thin. I had bad experience with the screwheads pulling through it. Whole job then disintegrated. Lucky it was a small area in my own place and I had leftovers or it woulda cost me big time.
If you don't have room for another ½" of thickness on top of the specified subfloor, skip the cement board and lay down Ditra. ¼" thick and as water resistant as the CBU if not moreso. Also functions as a bond breaker. For a small room, the cost isn't an issue. +/-$2 per SF plus you triple your thinset consumption (with CBU you double it anyway...).
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
throw some cross blocking in there... 2x4's are plenty large enough...
use 3/4 ply....
and use Hardi instead durorock
PL the Hardi down....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
what OC ya got....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Most recommend minimal inch and a quarter thickness for subfloor.
Who is "most" ?
3/4 Advantech and 1/2" WB has been successful for years and years.
is there something special about the tile ?
carpenter in transition
Got it.
Thanks to all.
Click here for access to the Woodshed Tavern
For joist on 16"
If you are installing DIRECTLY on wood the TCA requires an 5/8" exterior grade plywood subfloor and 1/2" exterior grade plywood underlayment. The screws for the underlayment should not go into the joist, but into the sub-floor. While thee is a combination 1 1/8" subfloor/underlayment I don't think that it will hve the decoupling of any splices. So I would not recommend it unless you can use a singple piece.
For use with CBU's or Fiber Cement backers then you only need 5/8" plywood subfloor plus the backer.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.