Finally got walls in my house, and I’m beginning to find all the things I missed/forget to do before the drywall when up. I put blocking in most of the closets, as I framed the house with light gauge steel, but of course, in my midnight rushes to finish the framing for drywall, I forgot the bathroom closet.
It’s only 24″x24″W and about 7’T, and I was planning on using shelf track. Unfortunately since there isn’t any blocking, and the tracks wouldn’t land over a stud, I’m not sure what is the best method for mounting them. The closet will hold towels and bathroom supplies, so nothing incredibly heavy, but I’m hesitant to simply use drywall anchors. Due to the way I built the closet, I also don’t have anything at ceiling to screw into (the ceilings in the house are 9′, so the closet is balloon framed in a sense).
So what is a good way to mount the shelves?
Thanks,
Z
Replies
When faced with similar situations, I have fastened full-width-of-the-closet horizontal 1Xs to the studs that are there, and then fastened the shelving/whatever to them at whatever spacing is needed.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
In a closet, I would probably just cut holes through the drywall and install the blocks--not sure what you mean about balloon framing, but that closet could act as a chimney if you ever had a fire and spead flames to floor above (so while you have things open, you might want to install fireblocking too!)--then patch the drywall. Who will notice that the drywall taping isn't perfect in a closet!? That's my take on it anyway.
Since they're metal studs, the track at the top effectively acts as a fireblock I assume. I just mean that the studs run 9', and the closet ceiling was simply made by running track horizontally at 7' around the closet and putting studs between. Above the closet, in the remaining space, is another small closet for things not frequently used. I was thinking about doing as you suggest, but the other thing I realized was that one of the walls that would require blocking, is the back wall of the laundry closet, so has all the plumbing, electrical and venting crammed into it...hmmm... Maybe that is why I never did get the blocking in ;)
I've hung some major stuff like guitar hangers with them zinc screw in jobbies that you screw a screw into. Really, they are pretty dang beefy.
Also wall dog screws for where the big honking zinc guys won't work are pretty good. The days of plastic anchors are long gone for me. Toggles too, don't need em.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"
Jed Clampitt
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In a similar situation, I've cut spacers from prefinished shelf stock, and just pressure fit them between shelves, against the walls on either side.
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I was about to ask if anyone had done anything similar, I figure then all the load is transferred to the floor and the only load that the DW has to take will be to simply keep the uprights attached to the wall.If I still wanted adjustable shelves (not saying I do, but the SO might :), do you think that running 1x2"s from floor to ceiling and fastening the shelf track to that would provide the same amount of support? I'd have to notch the shelves around the 1x2"s but I think that wouldn't be too bad...Thanks for all the great suggestions!Z
that should workView Image bakersfieldremodel.com
Instead of using 1X2's and then notching around them, why not just use a 1X12 from floor to ceiling and set the shelf tracks in a groove/dado.
If your shelves are deeper than 12", you could use plywood to match the shelf depth. For that matter, since the closet is only 24" deep, you could rip 1 piece of plywood in half and use it on each side. Just be sure you can get it into the closet.
I had an interesting problem to solve once. My firstwife was a civil eng and where she worked they had "flat files" , you know wide and deep drawers that are like 2" high all stacked up?Well a room full of engineers couldn't find a way to keep the 6 drawer units from sagging and binding the lower units. File units were tightto wall on each end and the rear. No way to add an exterior frame to support the individual cabs.I went and measured and looked and came up with 3 spacers between the units that I had band sawn into a camber, white oak about 5/4 x 3" and snug wall to wall.The ends met a stud in the wall, when the file cabs were stacked the camber got straighter and bore it's load trying to push the studs, which didn't budge...voila' you could have the cabinet with NOTHING under it, it was forceing it self into a wedgeing action by gravity.The engineers loved it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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I was gonna suggest lining the walls with 1/2" ply, but you're quicker than I am.
1/2" would be overkill. 3/8" is plenty.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Thanks, it probably means I spend too much time here.
Why not ventilated shelving for that closet? Solves blocking problem, minimal cleaning and easy install.
If you use full-length hanger strips vertically, all the load on the drywall will be straight down, and anchors won't tend to pull out (very much). I'd consider using the large (roughly 3/8" diameter) screw-in anchors for most of the length, with toggle bolts (or maybe Mollys) at the very top (where pull-out is more of a problem).
Threaded anchor:
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Toggle:
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Molly:
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You can use the shelf track that is hung from a horizontal support (screwed into the metal framing). If you wanted to have extra holding, you could cut out the top 6 inches of drywall and replace with 1/2 inch ply and screw the horizontal support to that.
I am not sure that you would have real problems using a shelf standard that rests on the floor and is held to the wall with drywall anchors, which is what I thought you proposed originally.