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I have a two car garage that is out of plumb, front to rear – it is leaning. Any suggestions for bringing it back plumb?
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Have you considered having Blue tie a rope onto his diesel and just pull it straight? Seems like a reasonable solution for a framer. :-)
Dennis
*Had a house blow 4" out of plumb in a wind storm one night. We set up a bunch of come-alongs, pulled it back in line and rebraced it. The hard part was explaining to the lady a quarter mile down the hill why a sheet of my plywood was sticking in her garage door.
*Thanks for the confidence Dennis.I probably would consider just bumping the wall with the diesel however. Four inches of lean isn't too much.I've straightend up a leanier one with wall jacks and pull braces. blue
*I had an 18'x 28' garage that was heading north, sideways. I drilled the top plates on the lee side and the bottom plates on the windward side to accept 3/4" threaded rod with a couple big washers on each side of the plate. Got inside with a couple come-alongs hooked around the washers and pulled it a little over-square, tacked up the OSB on the inside (it had no diag. bracing when it was made 50 years ago), let it go and it eased back to plumb. Scariest part was the wimpy come-alongs i borrowed way back then...should use chain and a sturdy come-along, and it would probably be better to do both ends at once instead of one-at-a-time like i did.
*Robert - I have the same problem with a three-car garage that will become a woodshop and a two-car garage. We should talk and compare notes.Mine is about 1-1/2"-2" out of plumb (leaning to the rear) - it's a problem because it exposes the garage door bottoms to weather.We plan to do something like the following:(1) Screw a 2 x 12 along the entire rear of the garage near the soffit (to the upper plate) - flat but with an 'on-edge' stiffener(2) Drill through everything in about 3 places - install large eye-bolts(3) Run cable from the eye-bolts through the front wall and to 3 come-alongs. We don't have a good belay point yet - we may temporarily erect a beam parallel to the front of the garage and tie it back to trees, dumpsters (full of concrete) etc.(4) Pull until cable is taut - add cable clamps behind front wall so that both walls can be pulled simultaneously.(5) Pull until plumb and plywood the end (shear) walls, adding tiesIn our case the studs in the gable triangle are plumb but the wall studs are not. We expect some siding pops (no sheathing, no bracing) but hope for no other collateral damage. We'll pin in front of the back plate which is a 4 x 6 so we don't pull the building off the foundation.Biggest problem right now is the front attachment points for the heavy-duty come-alongs, so any other responses on this thread will be appreciated. I've had a structural engineer review this with me but there are still a few holes to deal with.JeffPS - There's no way I would attempt this with a vehicle. It has to be held or braced plumb for awhile for insulation and electrical before plywood is added. Garage is 68 years old.Blue - the wall jack idea (push from the back) is appealing - we'll consider it.
*Jeff, if you have access to the exterior, it would be extrememly easy to move the structure 1 1/2" with push braces. I would simply put a series of medium length 2x4s on the outside and spring the wall back to plumb. If three strategically placed push braces didn't do it, I'd keep adding until it started to move. I serioulsly doubt that it could resist more than four or five.In the garage I plumbed up, it was quite large and it didn't have outide access that I could use (it was next to a canal). I was able to use some push braces on the front, but my main technique was a couple of wall jacks acting like come alongs that pulled the rear back to plumb. I have special "hooks" that I use with my wall jacks that effectively replace eyebolts and such...blue
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I have a two car garage that is out of plumb, front to rear - it is leaning. Any suggestions for bringing it back plumb?