I’m thinking about replacing an outside open area bar. It was wood and tiled, but is falling apart. We want to use the existing plumbing lines, so it will be in the same L shaped area which has no protection from the rain and sun, we live in Fl.Any ideas for a reasonably priced counter top surface ?Thanks Susan
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What is "reasonably" priced?
Form up the shape & pour it with concrete---- colors, hardners, & sealers are pretty endless.
Well , other than granite, but concrete isn't what I had in mind.
Soap stone is great stuff.
http://www.soapstones.com They have some nice stuff.
Soap stone will not stain & will not burn.
If you're capable of working with really hard wood, then you can work with soapstone.
I bought my slabs in 05' for about $22 per square foot.
It will scratch, but I feel that just adds character.
“If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.” Newt Gingrich
Edited 9/8/2007 6:19 pm ET by plumbbill
Susan -
Have you checked out concrete counter tops? They ain't just old grey slabs with oil stains anymore. Some of them are really pretty neat looking.
No I have not. Where would I find them ?
I've never actually been involved in a concrete countertop project, but have seen a few in countershop showrooms as well as in various magazines. From what I hear, they're very durable and can be made in an almost infinite variety of colors, finishes, and even textures.
One countertop guy told me that they're made with a lightweight concrete and most cabinets can easily support the weight.
Also what would support it ?
Use the same material found hortizonality elsewhere in your landscape.
If you got ceement (sidewalks going to) around your grill area, use ceement. (Stain both to match, if necessary.)
If your got pavers, use them set in thinset. Pavers are particularly nice because the thickness makes a nice size proportion. (Note if using granite slabs, you'll have a buildup along the edge. Pavers don't need that.)
If you have flagstone or bluestone, same thing. Using the same material thruout the landscape pulls the whole landscape plan together. As if it was planned that way.
I'd be wary of the materials made of small stones .... I'd be afraid that they were bound together with epoxy, which doesn't handle UV exposure very well.
Corian would seem ideal ... but, again, I'd verify the sunlight resistance.
Copper. Try a building supply, not a big box, and see if they sell sheets of copper or check the Revere Copper web site for supplier. Form your copper top over exterior grade plywood ( bend it around the edges with a rubber mallet ) and nail it down with copper nails. Promise yourself that you won't try to keep it shiny.
A crack head would have that outdoor copper counter in a heartbeat.
Cheap and durable? form up your top with 3/4" ply with treated 2x6 edging screwed under the ply to make a 2 1/4" edge thickness and wrap the whole thing with galvanized steel. Makes a nice outdoor work surface that's fine for shucking oysters or as a landing zone for the Weber.
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"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
Look into solid surface (Corian, Meganite, etc.) or one of the other man made homogeneous products like Zodiaq or Silestone.
What is the support for the counter? Is it a cabinetry or something else? If the support is worn, damaged, or deteriorating, now is the time to replace it too.
I'm taking it all out ,except the plumbing lines. I'm in the planning stage.Originally it has wood cabinets and a small sink with a tile counter surface .the area is pavers,so that might be what to use as a foundation .You all are so wise, I knew I'd better ask here first !I was thinking of starting with some base cabinets and building it up from there, But the cabinets will rot eventually, so I'm open to ideas. Thanks all, Susan
I was thinking of starting with some base cabinets and building it up from there.
I would be reluctant to use "stock" kitchen base cabs in any outdoor application. They're intended to be used inside a house and probably wouldn't last very long in your climate.
Do you have any patio furniture stores nearby? They may have something built for outside use that you could use - or may be able to refer you to someone who does this sort of thing.
A friend of mine built his island counter out of concrete, all colored a brown. Ugly as heck to me, but won't rot rust fall apart. Colors are endless and its cheap if you are doing the work yourself.
who ya callin' ugly???
Look up, see the little magazine picture?
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/fh_currentissue.asp
View Image
A CONCRETE COUNTERTOP AND SINK IN A SINGLE POUR
by Jeremy French and Matt Kabat
Formed and finished with off-the-shelf materials, a vanity top takes shape upside down
Read this article online View Image
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/make-a-concrete-vanity-top-and-sink-in-a-single-pour.aspx?ac=ts&ra=fp
Joe H
I also live in Florida and have an outdoor cabinet that I use for cooking outside. I screwed 1/2" PT plywood to the top of the cabinet, put wonderboard on top of that, attached with construction adhesive and screws, and then tiled over that. It's 7-1/2 years old and the top is still fine. I went with the sandwich of ply and wonderboard to provide rigidity due to a 10-inch overhang on the sides of the cabinet. If I didn't have the overhang I probably would've just gone with the wonderboard.
Susan, I built my outdoor counters using 3/4" marine grade plywood as a base, primed and painted all sides with exterior semi-gloss paint and then had a sheet metal shop fabricate a stainless steel counter top to fit the marine plywood top. Been in use for several years with no problems. Handles the summer heat and rain along with sub zero temps of winter. Roger
Let's see ... outdoor copper countertop in the Florida sun ...
YES!!! an egg-fryer ... pancake-maker ... branding iron ... elbow singer ... solar collector ...
Tell me you're kidding? Stick with tile/concrete etc. over non-wood substrates
Jeff
Edited 9/22/2007 9:29 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Concrete when done properly is quite amazing stuff. Make sure to get a smooth surface to make sure cleanup is a cinch. A good thickness is needed as well as a good concrete sealer.