Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 05, 1999 09:01pm | #8

   *
   I have yet to find a fast and reliable method for mitering outside corners on bevel siding. I have tried using a starter strip up against the back of the miter saw, setting the saw at 45 deg. or whatever. Supposedly this duplicates the lay of the siding once it is installed. I have yet to get this to work except in a mockup. It is frustrating to see it work on a test then not be able to replicate kit when it comes time to do the deed. As usual I am resorting to getting the compound miter close, cutting the board long and walking it in. This is, as you probably know, slow as hell.

   Any helpfull ideas or condolences would be appreciated. It would be good to finish the job before my they start delivering my mail here.

   Dreaming of cornerboards,

   Rj Scott

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 02, 1999 08:04am | #1

   *Rj - my condolences brother. I have always thought that was a pour detail and have never seen siding done that way stay tight. Thus all of the metal corner covers that became common later. I'm with you, give me corner boards, of give me another job. - jb

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 02, 1999 09:30pm | #2

   *Because of my hatred of vinyl and its non-detailing, I have made it a point to observe. In San Diego on the '20s bungalows with sidning, wich are many,out side corners are either mitered or treated with metal corners at each row. When painted these metal corner pieces are almost invisible. I suspect that they were (are??) manufactured for this purpose rather than being site fabricated. I would use this detail for any bevel siding jobs I had, either wood or fiber cement. It would pay to invest in a mini-brake to make them if they can't be bought.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 02, 1999 10:49pm | #3

   *This is a very common detail on the old houses around here ,and virtually all have metal corners.Just imagine the wear and tear saved on these delicate corners over the years by the metal corners.good luck,Stephen

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 03, 1999 04:27am | #4

   *It was a very small siding job three or four years ago, but I had no trouble obtaining the metal corners. I can't remember if I had to order them, or if the lumberyard had them on hand, but it was no big deal.Rich Beckman

2. 
   Guest_ | Sep 03, 1999 05:08am | #5

   *Jim thanks for the condolences, I wish that the metal corners that you all have mentioned would take stain. I am matching a detail on the existing structure, built in the 1920's. The craftsmen who built this place had the level of skill and ability for fine detail that wavers between inspiration and damnation for me.Thanks so much,Rj

3. 
   Guest_ | Sep 03, 1999 05:17am | #6

   * Rj Scott,

   Try setting the miter to 45 degs and the bevel angle anywhere between 1 and 5 degs depending on your siding. This should "close" up the joint. Good luck.

   Joseph Fusco View Image

4. 
   Jon_Poston | Sep 03, 1999 06:06am | #7

   *I too had to match existing siding like yours and this is how I did it. I held the siding up to the wall and marked the short points ( top and bottom) of the miter on the back side of the clapboard. use a straight edge to connect the points and cut from the back side with a skilsaw set to 45 degrees. I think the problem your having is that the angle changes as the exposure of the siding changes. Good Luck

5. 
   Guest_ | Sep 05, 1999 09:01pm | #9

   *One of my first siding jobs had something called boston corners( regional term I'm sure), and instead of beveling they over lapped the corners. The following course they are overlapped the opposite way , creating a weave up the corner. Its a lot easier done with shingle than cedar siding, end grain verses with the grain, but with a little block plane to fine tune it will be just fine. Besides the mitered corner approach will allow the corner gaps due to shrinkage to be more condusive to water inviltration.