Has anybody used the Insopink polystyrene insulation system over block walls? This is a XDS polystyrene that is 1.5 ” think and comes in a 2′ X 8′ panel. The edges are recesssed 3/4″ X1.5″ so you join the panels with a 1″X3″ (to be recessed at the same depth as the styrene)
Sounded so cool (in theory) I bought a truck full and started last night. The problem is the remington fastener and the 3/4″ wood compresses the foam enough that the wood is recessed below the depth as the foam. Can’t imagine trying to attach DW over this. A 7/8″ firring strip would be perfect, but they don’t exist. Thinking about special ordering plywood 1″(?) and making my own strips……Any ideas?
Edited 2/11/2005 4:49 pm ET by hammer-n
Replies
Just go to screw head tapcons and control the compression better. I know, got to drill but thats what ya got that 18vcdless hammerdrill for.
Which model of the Remington fastener tool are you using?
I'm just speculating, but it seems to me that the one that requires a hit with a hammer is more likely to compress the foam.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
This is the one that has a trigger activation. You push the barrel against the wood and push until the barrel is cocked. Kinda a safety.
I ripped some 1/8" plywood into 2-1/2" strips and sandwiched that between the furring strips and styrene. The depth is perfect. The finished DW walls look good. I'm happy with the results.
I'm still surprised owens corning set the dato right at 3/4". 5/8" would have been better considering the compression and a less than perfect block walls.
"This is the one that has a trigger activation. You push the barrel against the wood and push until the barrel is cocked"Did the compression occur during the cocking of the tool? Or at the firing of the tool?Thanks.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
The compression occurrs during firing.
I lightened up on the charge. Used a #2 instead of a #3 charge and finished the last 1/4" with a hammer. That helps but still needed shimming.
Clay is right about switching to tapcons, use the hex heads and make counter-sinks with a 1/2" spade bit. And use a good hammer drill.
I made my furring out of 3/4" plywood, instead of 1x3's. Plywood is straighter, less prone to split, and holds drywall screws well. The plywood doesn't actually cost any more and doesn't take long to rip. I used a lot of PL300 too--
glued the foam to the wall and sealed the joints instead of taping with house wrap tape.
what's wrong with self countersinking flat head tapcons...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
nothing really. hex heads just run in w/o stripping heads or bits as much.I just found a system that works for me.
I like the idea of using plywood. The 1X3" are starting to twist before I get them installed.
A question about the house rape tape at $13.00 a roll. Last FHB mentioned taping seams on XDS styrene (basement remodel story) Why is this done?? Doesn't the XDS breath. Seems like a waist of money to me.
"A question about the house rape tape at $13.00 a roll. Last FHB mentioned taping seams on XDS styrene (basement remodel story) Why is this done?? Doesn't the XDS breath. Seems like a waist of money to me."You don't want moist warm interior air circulating behind the foam and condensing on the cool concrete wall.Now did this last year on a foundation with a 4" bow in the walls. I used canned foam to seal the sheet foam, top, bottomm, and between sheets.
That makes sense.
Thanks again guys for the wealth of suggestions.
Go to an office supply store and get clear packing tape. High tack stuff, not the low tack. For your application (no weather or sun light) it will seal and stay put as well as the Tyvek tape, and at about a quarter to a third of the cost. I have used 3M packing tape, but there may be other brands equally as good (Scotch).
Dave
you said:"I like the idea of using plywood. The 1X3" are starting to twist before I get them installed."that is a switch I made last year, I don't expect 1x3's to be pretty, but the stuff I was getting was so bad...I took it back, traded up to plywood and haven't looked back since. didn't bother with treated ply either since the foamboard is behind it. I also found plenty of uses for leftover plywood when it came to framing soffits, etc.As far as taping seams goes, I am not sure if PL300 is vapor proof, but I skipped the tape altogether and used a generous bead of the blue goo on allfoamboard edges and pressed the panels together...seemed to be a good seal. One more thing, I also used the PL300 extensively when hanging rock due to the 2' span between furring strips.Last idea for you--maybe for next time, cut a starter strip of 3/4" pink board, 1-1/2" tall x 8', so you can use a full 1x3 furring strip at the bottom of the wall. Makes installing baseboards later work better, but may also mean you hang the rock up 1" off the floor so the edges still hit the furring 4' off the floor...hope this makes sense...good to keep the dry wall off the floor anyway.gotta go
rough saw is 7/8" thick...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!