Replies

1. 
   Pam_Mcleod | Nov 14, 2000 05:25pm | #1

   *
   Robert,

   It's called Peel-Away. I haven't used it myself, though I have a bucket sitting around waiting for the right job to come along so I can try it. I have heard that it works, but it's not as easy as it sounds. Here's the link to the manufacturer, give them a call for distributor info (in my town it's Sherwin Williams):
   http://www.peelaway.com/html/aboutus.htm

   Be warned, it's VERY expensive. Also, the product names are confusing - I think the one I have is called "Peel Away 7". It is supposedly appropriate for historic and architectural renovations, including removal of lead paint.

   I have a message somewhere in my email archives from a fellow who sent me some "tried & true" guidelines for using it ... I'll try to dig it up and post it here.

   Pam

1. 
   Pam_Mcleod | Nov 14, 2000 05:29pm | #2

   *b The following is the advice I received from another newsgroup on using Peel-Away:Is it Peel-Away #1? That's the only one I've used. The first doorway I did turned out pretty bad. My three main mistakes were that I tried to do too much at once, I didn't apply it thickly enough, and that I let it get too dry.You might not need gloves for the application, but you'll definitely need them for the removal. I first bought thick, expensive latex gloves, but they got holes in them just about as quickly as the cheap ones did, so I wound up buying a box of those thin latex gloves, like doctors use. When I'd get a hole in one of the fingers, usually the thumb or index, I'd patch it with masking tape. Just wind tape around the finger. When the buildup of tape got too thick, I'd trash the glove, and get another. This proved cheaper in the long run.You can get Peel-Away in 5 and 10 gallon buckets. If you got the 1.25gallon size, when you run out, see if you can estimate how much more you'll need. The larger the size, the cheaper it is, usually. I got a 5 gallon bucket, but found that I had to mix it and thin it out a bit with water. It was pretty clumpy.Measure, cut and fit the paper before you apply the paste, and allow alittle extra for the paste itself. When you cover the paste with the paper, make sure there are no air bubbles. About a half-hour after you cover the paste, go over it looking for bubbles. The instructions say to cut them with a knife, but it's easier to poke them with a pin, and then smooth the paper out. The less air under the paper, the better.I found the plastic tool that comes with it pretty useless, and instead used a putty knife to apply it. For the flat panels of doors, I used a really wide taping knife. It goes much faster that way.In some cases, like flat vertical surfaces, the Peel-Away tends to start sliding down. To prevent this, apply first a really thin coat of paste, and let it dry completely. Then apply a regular coat of paste, and proceed as normal. This is mentioned in the instructions, but it's just a little blurb.They say to leave it 24 hours, but if you apply too thin a coat, you'll need to take it off earlier. Within a couple hours of application, it will start turning brown. Keep an eye on it, and test it by pressing your finger against the paper. The paste underneath should feel thick but not hard. I can't describe it better than that, so you'll need to get a feel for it.The brochures would have you believe the stuff comes off neatly, leaving a clean surface behind. Not exactly. When you go to remove the paper, you can't just pull it off. You'll need to help it along with a putty knife to make sure it doesn't separate from the paste (which is now mixed in with the dissolved paint). I roll the paper up as I go along to make disposal easier. Also, if the size of the paper you are removing is large, you can use a razor to cut it into smaller pieces before you start removing it. Make sure you cut through the paste/paint, but not so far you damage the wood underneat (a razor cut won't be noticed anyway).Once you remove the paper and paste mess, there will still be a good deal of gooey residue left behind. The wood will be rather soft from the soaking it got, so be very careful with metal tools. Steel wool #1 or #2 work well to get the residue off. You can rinse the steel wool out in water immediately, shake it out, and reuse it. For grooves in molding, there are plastic screwdrivers used in TV repair that work well.Once you get most of the residue off, you will need to neutralize thesurface. Have a spray bottle filled with distilled white vinegar ready for this. Spray (mist, not stream) vinegar on the surface, scrub it down with more steel wool, and wipe off with a rag. From the time you remove the paper to the time you neutralize the surface, you should not let the surface dry, even if this means doing smaller sections at a time.A day or two after you're done, you might see some white powder forming on the surface of the wood. This means you need to neutralize some more. No big deal. Just grap the spray bottle and the steel wool, and do it. I've never had to do it a third time.You should expect a few little islands of paint here and there not to be affected by Peel-Away. On a door, you might have a half-dozen quarter-size spots that simply did not get dissolved. Just use regular paint remover for those. JASCO Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover is probably the best, but it's nasty stuff, so you just want it for the little spots left behind by Peel-Away.Peel-Away #1 contains water, so you don't want to use it on anything that might be water soluble, like plywood or particle board. And because it darkens wood, use it only if you intend to repaint the wood. Stripping paint is hard work no matter what, but this way is much less work than other ways.

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Nov 14, 2000 05:37pm | #3

   *Peel-Away applies to fine details too, in other words, don't use it for mantels with compo ornament, fine carving or heavily water-damaged areas with loose wood - it will peel the details away.Jeff

1. 
   Pam_Mcleod | Nov 15, 2000 11:41pm | #4

   *I just heard of another, similar product called Ready-Strip. See:http://www.readystrip.com/index.html

2. 
   robert_lightfoot | Nov 15, 2000 11:41pm | #5

   *
   A couple of months ago I ran across and advertisement in finehomebuilding or finewoodworking, for a product that can remove up to 5 layers of paint in one application. When applied you can peel off the paint with ease. If anyone knows of such a product please inform me. Also let me know if it lives up to the claim. Thanks, RRLJ