I recently had 400 series Anderson double hung window installed in my kitchen over the sink. While their instructions talk about priming/painting the ‘hidden’ areas, it does not say anything about doing the bottom of the sashes or the sides of the tilt in window portions. I went through all my books/internet and advice is conflicting. Since it is wood on the inside, shouldn’t you prime/paint these areas like you would a door – to prevent swelling due to moisture?
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From Andersen 400 install pdf
http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobheader=application%2FpdfContent-Disposition%3A+inline%3B+filename%3D0005393.pdf%3B&blobkey=id&blobnocache=false&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1169410734263&ssbinary=true
Paint, stain, seal all unfinished wood.
See page 10.
Don't paint vinyl, non wood parts.
There's no conflicting info here. Failure to finish would probably void warranty.
Thanks for the link, although mine is not the High Performance window per se. The installer did leave me the basisc installation sheet from inside the box. The brief note did say to 'finish wood surfaces immediately after installation' and then shows a small diaghram of 'hidden wood surfaces' but this does not show the bottom/top of sashes. I had downloaded the 'General Finishing & Cleaning Guidelines' from their site and again it does not say anything specific.
I know my old Marvin tilt in windows allow you to tlit and then pivot the window to remove it entirely - can't find any instructions on Anderson about this.....does it work the same way? It sure would be easier to remove each window to get to all the 'hidden' wood parts and bottom/top of sash.
Ironically, on another note, I saw a Q&A here re 'best insulation for windows?' (FH 9/17/2009) that addressed my concern about packing with fiberglass insulation vs. foam. The installer packed with fiberglass.....but I see in the link you sent that Anderson says you can use either, just don't pack the fiberglass real tight. Which he did. I'm frustrated with installer (casing is already in place and other contractor has tile put on wall ready to grout next week. Contractor had primed the inside of the window and casing but when I saw some bare wood, I started my 'intelligence' search. Contractor will do what I want but I wanted to provide him with exact written instructions.
Thanks for your help.
It likely would be easier to paint many parts before installation rather than after.
And be careful of what paint you use. Paint buildup can interfere with operation, and you don't want a paint that will tend to stick.
Too bad.............
............your installer/the contractor/whoever ordereed the windows, didn't spec them finish painted. Not that much more, but at least it's done. If the color isn't right, you can always hit the show sides with the right one.
Look at those instructions, the ones in the box, or go to the Andersen site and read how to remove the sash. Old andersens, you had to pull the vinyl jamb liner-dbl hungs. Then I "think" the newer have both tilt in/slide the one side up and it diengages. However, some (maybe andersen) require you to pull down two tabs before removal.....................
So for gods sake-Hi performance or not-look up your model number window-download the instructions. Don't bother with the pretty pictures, just the blood and guts install.
Best of luck!
window painting
I think I have the same window you got. Mine is Anderson, from HD, double hung with plastic guide on the sides. I installed them myself, and it was about 7 years before I got to finish painting all of them, lol. The wood part did not get damaged, although if you see condensation dripping down the pane, I would paint immediately. Even after painting, and if you use humidifier in winter, try using clear acrylic caulk along the beveled edge where wood meets the glass.
You don't have to remove the window to paint. Most wood parts you can see even with windows in their tracks. If yours has vinyl wrap on the outside, the wrap comes most of the way in on the bottom. Little wood there should be painted. Also there is little wood showing on the bottom of the jamb if you stick your head out and look in. Also remove the locks.
I used drywall joint tape to separate the window frame from the plastic guide by sticking the tape in the joint. Remove them before paint dries for both primer and finish. Leave the window open a little so the bottom and top do not stick to eachother or the frame. You can use shellac based primer because it goes on thin, and don't slop on the paint. I did not paint the sides of the window that meet the plastic guide. In fact, it may only hinder the window operation. So far I don't see any damage to this part nor any paint flaking off the edge (sign of water damage). If you must, after the window is painted, remove the window (press on the plastic guide and pull one side out first then the other and tilt sideways to remove from guide), and rub on candle wax. Hope it helps.
Thanks everyone for your help, esp. k1c about time frame to get it done :)
I did find on hammerzone.com archive an article by Bruce Maki that was great because he took it step by step with close up photos on how to remove the windows (he was doing it so he could stain them dark.)
It certainly was another live'n'learn lesson - contractor highly recommended the window installer......certainly won't recommend him to anyone I know!
If contractor doesn't show this week, I'll do it myself over the Holiday weekend....I don't want to let it go till summer high heat/humidity.
You people are the greatest! Anyone live near Hartford CT for future reference????