THIS IS A QUESTION FOR PAINTING PROFESSIONALS. DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERMOFOIL KITCHEN CABINETS CAN BE PAINTED? WOULD IT EVENTUALLY PEEL? IF SO WHAT WOULD BE PREPARATION AND TYPE OF PAINT (OIL, LATEX,ETC…) I WOULD APPRECIATE AN E MAIL WITH ANY ADVISE TO [email protected] THANK YOU
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NO. YES.
Never did it but it would seem to me if you scuffed the ? I think it's like plastic. So to scuff and then bond/primer it would hold just fine.
Doesn't sound out of the realm of possible. With a good 2coat top cote. I think it would be good.
BENJAMIN MOORE WEBSITE SAYS IT CAN BE DONE. LIGHTLY SAND WITH 150, PRIME WITH THEIR FRESH START ALL PUPOSE ACRYLIC PRIMER, LET DRY FOR SEVEN DAYS. AFTER SAND WITH 200 AND APPLY TWO COATS OF OIL OR LATEX, WITH 220 SANDING BETWEEN COATS. STILL HATE TO GO THRU ALL THAT IF IT WOULD PEEL. THERMOFOIL IS ACTUALLY PVC, DOES THAT HOLD PAINT AT ALL WELL??
It's all about the surface to surface. So if you scuff it/150g they call for. Me, I'd not hesitate to do it with course scotch brite. Once you scuff the surface that's what makes the grab of the paint. Also that's why they are calling for the acrylic primer. It's tedious but can be done for a very nice job. Also it is paint finish so not on the level of durability as the original. I have rentals that have been painted years ago and thy have held up well.
Using all caps is sort of like shouting. You may want to turn them off.
Despite what Benjamin Moore's website (or anyone else's) says, I would be very reluctant to paint thermofoil cabinets. I have experimented quite a bit with painting melamine and have yet to find anything satisfactory. I know melamine and thermofoil are not the same thing, but if anything, it seems that it would MORE difficult to paint "vinyl".
IF (see how capitalizing "IF" makes it a big IF) the thermofoil were located where it wouldn't see any handling or temperature changes, I might consider it.
Anyway, I strongly suggest you experiment before you commit. Benjamin Moore ain't gonna buy you new cabinets if it doesn't work out.
-Don
Ya like maybe pull a door and do a test and let it sit. Then see how it looks,feels maybe wash it and such.
All i know is if yu don't want the paint to stick you can't get it off.
My advice to client was to throw them out and at least have decent doors built, if not entire cabinets. Client said she wanted to keep them so had painter use a heat gun to remove shrink wrapped finish and prime/paint. Can't say how much adhesive residue was left or how it will effect long term performance of the doors, but it's better than the bubbled shrink wrap.
It was just like picking up a dry dog turd, skimming it with spackle, priming, skimming minor imperfections with red lacquer glazing putty, reprime, paint. Still a turd.
melamine is a non-porous surface, any attempts to paint this will result in nothing but a very temporary job, not worth your time