Hello all, I am currently building my home (subcontracting all the way) and we are finishing up the drywall. Soon it will be time to paint. In order to make up on some of my cost overages I decided to paint the 2800 sq ft house myself. I have limited painting experience never painting a “new” house. Any suggestions? I was thinking about renting a sprayer to do the primer then roll the final coat of paint. How many coats of primer should I expect to do? Can I spray and back roll myself? This will most likely be a 1 man operation. Any other tips? Advice?
thanks
Replies
hooooooooooeeeee. I'd like to have a chair and a cup of coffee and just listen to what comes out of your mouth about a week into this.
My first instinct is to say is it worth it to you to keep carrying the loan for the period of time that it will take you to paint the thing vs paying a crew who knows what they're doing and gets in and out in a reasonable amount of time?
If you're still doing it . . . a sprayer would be nice. Yes you can prime with it. Yes you can spray and backroll solo, if you're really really motivated. Its probably not worth buying one for one house.
But I think this is all moot. The finished look of your house has a lot to do with the skill set of the guy putting the finishing touches on. I'm not trying to dissuade you - sometimes diving in and learning is the best answer, but just consider all the angles. You stated you're limited in experience. Are you willing to take the risk that you're going to bugger it up? Make a mistake that costs you money? What if it takes you 5 weeks to get it done? Do you know how to mask so you don't put wall paint on the trim, or windows, or floor . . . and get clean lines when you pull it off?
If you're still going forward. Clean first. Everything. Mask windows. Pull doors. Prime. Finish trim. Spackle, sand, caulk. Sand walls. Spackle sand repeat. Mask trim. Roll walls. Buy a good brush and keep it clean.
"A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor
RW -
If you have an extra chair, I'll bring my own coffee - lol.
I used to think that anyone could paint until I saw a real pro in action. I have a painter friend who is incredibly meticulous, and is all about preparation. He absolutely refuses to cut corners or take shortcuts and his work is magnificent.
Like he says, you gotta look at it every day and the mistakes grow each time you look - lol.
You know what they say,
everyone can paint
Tim
and as my uncle would say, a monkey can run a welder. But do you want to drive in the end product?"A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor
By the time you mask off all the windows and trim and floor and and and ...and rent a sprayer you may as well just roll it out. Definatly!
One tip tho to keep "holidays" or overlapping paint ridges from forming which is what makes the paint job look very amaturish is to always add "Floetrol" to all you buckets of paint. I love the stuff. I always use it. It makes the paint go on like it has lanolan in it...least thats how it feels to me but mainly it slows down the drying process a little bit...just long enough so you can go back...check your work and gently roll out any holidays that you may have missed. Same for painting trim as well...lets you go back to look for drips.
Another tip for speeding things up a lot is when you paint the window sashes...I "always" allow the paint to get on the glass. I never try and cut it in perfectly. A- it helps seal the window to the wood and B-its fast! Come back ####day later with one of those black plastic paint scrapers that are shaped like a "Y" that you slip a utility knife blade in and start scraping. I can do one of my 12 over 12 windows...all 24 panes in five minutes, TOPS! That scraper rocks!Don't use the straight scrapers...they suck. Don't try to scrape the same day...maybe even wait two days because if its still at all tacky it sticks to the sash paint. Otherwise, dry, it falls right off.
HAve two painting poles. One large and one small. Don't try and do a whole house with one large pole. I won't suggest it if you haven't ever tried it but stilts make it really go fast...cutting in the walls to the ceilings...extremely fast. If you haven't ever been on a pair forget it then!!! USe two small ladders and a 2x8 plank.
edit: oh yeh...one other thing...if you paint the walls and ceilings two different colors...mainly very dark to very light...you'll wish you never did the job...you'll see. I almost always paint deep colors on my walls and light ceiling colors and its a real pain in the azz...looks great...but....whewwww...you'll see...especially if the spacklers don't get a real crisp square corner where the walls meet the ceiling.
Have a radio!
Have fun
a...
If Blodgett says Tipi Tipi Tipi, it must be so!
Scraping paint from glass risks scratching the glass. Better to mask off the glass too. You do want the paint on the exterior of glazed windows to lap about 1/16" of an inch onto the glass.
Scraping paint from glass risks scratching the glass.>>>>>>>>You try taping off 30- 3'6 x 5'6 12 over 12's plus 12 french doors with 10 panes each plus plus plus...Try the scraper I spoke about. Use a new blade for each window. I have not one scratched piece a glass and I have a whole lotta glass here. Come to Tipi Fest here and see for yourself...each scratched piece a glass you find I'll pour you a beer but ya better realize you may end up pretty sober...lol.If Blodgett says Tipi Tipi Tipi, it must be so!
"Try the scraper I spoke about."
What is the name of these scrapers and where do you buy them? We usually tape off all interior glass because we're scared to death of scratches. Had a competitor who went out of business because he scratched 20 or so multi-lite windows. The homeowner made him replace all the windows he scratched. I think the stress of dealing with the goof made him rethink career choices.
The exterior windows that we do spray, we try to scrape while the paint is soft. A little Dirtex spray softens tough spray film.
Thanks for the hints
All paint stores carry them. They're black plastic. Under ten bucks. I think even HD carries them. The blades change really easily so change them often. I'm telling you...Come to Tipi Fest and look at all the panes of glass here. I did them "all" like that with no scratches...FAST! Also...don't let the paint dry for weeks on end. It can get "too" hard and take too much effort to scrape. Two three days is good. Even one day depending on the temperature. You can tell when its ready the minute you try scraping. The paint will just fall right off. Ya cant loose anything...try it on an inconspicuous window if you have any doubts. the worstthing that'll happen is you'll own one more scraper.
The good thing about these scrapers is that the very tip of the blade...the point of the blade is positioned just right unlike those straight blades. Just "zip" the scraper around the entire perimeter of the pane. Takes about ten seconds!If Blodgett says Tipi Tipi Tipi, it must be so!
Andy
I must be having a senior moment, but I cannot envision the scraper you are describing.
Could you get me a brand name or a pic?
Sounds like the best thing since sliced bread if on eis careful
I'm on my way out for some kersone for my bullet heater, Shops freeezzingg. I'll try and shoot a pic later.
Its black plastic and shaped like a Y or a T and you slip the regular utility blades you put in you knife into the top. Theres nothing that obstructs the corners of the tool..the blade sticks out a hair further on each end which is what lets you get right up to the wood sash and the blade comes out with just a tiny yank.
I'll try and post a pic later
####If Blodgett says Tipi Tipi Tipi, it must be so!
Is this the one you're referring to? There's a guard on the blade, but if you look carefully, you can see that it takes a standard utility blade. I've been using a razor blade scraper, but I'll have to give this one a try.
-Don
View Image
edit: yeah, I guess it is!
Edited 2/25/2006 11:52 am ET by DonCanDo
Edited 2/25/2006 11:53 am ET by DonCanDo
OK OK here ya go dude...If Blodgett says Tipi Tipi Tipi, it must be so!
My painter buddy uses a brush-on masking liquid on glass. It goes on fast (of course, he's an absolute artist with a sash brush) and peels off with minimal scraping after the paint is dry.
A few weeks ago, I saw him clean two, twelve light, french patio doors in the 30 minutes it took me to install about 20' of baseboard - lol.
>I "always" allow the paint to get on the glass. I never try and cut it in perfectly.
Absolutely. Much faster. But you don't just slop it on, you let the edge of your brush ease over onto the glass. Then there isn't as much paint to scrape, making it faster and lessening any chances of scratching. If you've done it right you don't need much pressure at all on the scraper. If you can, try to scrape just as soon as the paint is completely dry. Don't let it go too long.>HAve two painting poles. One large and one small.
Yep, and get good ones that extend and don't flop around at full extension. You won't believe what a difference a good pole makes over those ones that look like long dowels. And yes, you need two of them. The small one will do the bathrooms & hall.>USe two small ladders and a 2x8 plank.
I took a 18" x 6' piece of 1/2 inch plywood (grain running longwise, not crosswise), cut a hand hole in the very center and bolted it to the top of 2 plastic step stools (one at each end) that are just high enough to get me to where I can do ceiling/wall connections easily. Much easier & quicker than ladders. You can just scoot it along the floor with your foot, or carry it with the hand hole.Use an 18" roller on your good extension poles. Don't even think of trying it on one of those "dowel" poles. You can cover far more area in the same amount of time. The good, extension pole is the key to not wearing yourself out. When one length gets tiring, adjust it. It makes a difference. There will be one length that you'll find will fit you and the way you work.Try one of those edging pads with rollers on it. If you can get the hang of how much paint to put on it, and how hard to push you can edge your ceiling faster than trying to brush it.
In the replies I saw, I don't think anyone answered your question of how many coats of primer to use. I asked at a paint store (was having trouble with top coat covering) and guy said one coat of primer is enough and to put two coats of the top coat (rather than the other way around). Get good quality paint. Use good quality brushes.
Job I just got done with, the "foreman" (was really just volunteers and he took on the role of "boss") said, "Anyone can paint...." Yeah, just like anyone can do a heart transplant, but the results may vary. I get real tired of seeing the jobs these "anyone can paint" painters do with runs and drips--looks like they applied the paint with a broom.
Tinting primer gray helps coverage of the top coats. The darker the top coat, the darker gray the tinting for the primer. I believe Sherwin-Williams worked out that about 5 shades of gray covered pretty much all colors.
I hear you there, I have heard " anyone can paint" several times, and It always makes me cringe! Also have had clients say that they want to do the painting, which becomes a delicate issue. On one hand you don't want to seem greedy and insist on doing the painting yourself. But one the other, at the end of the day the paint job is probably what most people judge a finished project on even if subconsciencly "people" meaning anyone who ever walks into that project. Family, neighbors, friends ALL POTENTIAL REFERRALS! and if they look and see snake trails for cut lines, drips, roller marks ect. They will not be calling you. Even if the home owner proudly proclaims " we did all the painting ourselves" chances are it will not change their prejudice. This is not to say that all home owners are incapable of painting, but painting IS a skill developed over time
Stogman,
I painted my new construction also and can share a couple tips.
If you are going to spray and backroll, get a helper. I did about half the house alone and the rest with me spraying and someone else backrolling. Using a partner went at least three times faster than doing it alone. When rolling, you may be tempted to try one of those 18" rollers, I found that when fully loaded with a thick primer and on an extension pole my arms were dead after a couple rooms. I didn't have this problem with a smaller roller.
I am sure that some here would disagree but for our walls and ceilings (orange peel and knockdown) I used white combination primer/finish coat from Sherwin Williams. I two coated the ceilings and closets and single coated the walls. Using a big Graco sprayer and backrolling I was able to prime a 2600 sq foot house in about two days. Then I applied two coats of color to the walls. The one place I wish I had used a different/better primer was in our dining room with navy blue paint.
Plan to spend a lot more time prepping than you expect. Don't forget this will include, caulking around trim, fixing all the inevitable bad drywall cutouts around outlets, windows, goobers in corners that the texture guys missed etc etc.
One thing you might consider is doing the prep and priming, then paying someone to come in and do the much more noticeable color painting for you. Priming is a lot easier (and faster) than all the cutting in you will have to do with the finish coats but in most of my bids (~8 grand) prep/priming was half the bid.
Regards,
Dennis
If you decide to hire a "helper" make sure they have some experience. A bad helper is far worse than none at all.
Danno gave excellent advice on the number of coats of primer/top coat. IF you are using different colors, try to tint the primer to match. It helps make cover up easier, although two top coats usually takes care of that.
I would stick with roller and brush too. If you are not experienced with a sprayer, they can actually slow you down. Outside is where I taught myself to use mine. I am glad that I did not try to gain experience with it inside.
I just noticed that you are planning on priming with the sprayer. That will probably work out just fine. Agree on the backroll/spraying alone, and the advice to use Floetrol.
All I can tell you is before you paint a stroke you need to prep, prep, prep, prep, and when you think you're ready for paint prep a some more.
Most homeowners I work for haven't a clue as to how much preping it takes to paint a house.
busta :0
In HD they sell an aluminum scaffold that is about 18" high and about 36" long. They are great. They are light and easy to move around. They only cost about 35.00. I can cut about 5-6 feet before moving the stand.
Oh yeah, buy good brushes and keep them clean. When painting trim I clean them every 2 hours. Good luck.
Headstong, I'll take on anyone!