We have new, mid-grade, vinyl shutters which are marked as
“paintable” on the box. They are ‘primer grey’ (my description). I want a good paint job on them (a dark, dark green) and was disposed toward an oil-base enamel, but the guy at the paint store said that’s not recommended, as the heat generated as the oil-base paint drys may warp the shutters. He sold me a latex enamel, which is not covering as well as I think it should — two coats and still not completely covered (he said I didn’t need a primer).
Any relevent experience with this? Oil-base OK? Do I actually need a primer? What do you recommend?
Replies
Paint guy is full of s@it. Every application on a new surface needs a primer . Period . If you were to be so cheap that you didn't , you need to clean shutters with alcohol at least , or super clean from Wal-Mart . I would have cleaned them with super clean , and used an oil exterior primer. Then its your choice what you would like to use for a top coat . Usually oil doesn't cover as well. Also latex is a better choice for the top coat in my opinion. They have done so much testing and lab work with latex , and so little with oil . The market is about gone for oil enamels , so much that there is no money for research . Their bread and butter , and competition is latex paints. The white wash days are long over . Technology brings latex to the top , in most applications. What it cant replace is an oil primer. Many times over , with primer used , has been the best jobs I've done that has given reliable service. I've been able to look back at jobs I've done as much as 35 years ago. I will tell you one thing , latex is getting better as long as we are talking the top five paint companies.
Next time you want to do a paint job , try Sherwin Williams , the pros choice.
Tim Mooney
Well, Tim, actually this was the Sherwin-Williams store. There are two guys that I've talked to there that seem to know what they are talking about, and a couple who have no idea whatsoever (everybody has to start somewhere I guess).
And of course I read the instructions that came with the shutters. They are new, in the box, and are marked "paintable" -- they say to use an acrylic latex, and make no mention of a primer.
These were clearance items and they had exactly the qty. that we needed but I'd have painted them anyway because I don't want them to look like vinyl. They are a raised panel style, with nice woodgrain and will look very realistic I think. I'm using lots of wood detailing on the front porch, even though we have vinyl siding -- I do want a low maintenance house, but don't want it to look plastic. I'm doing everything I know to do to make the wood -- and the paint -- last. Priming, caulking, 2 coats of oil base.
I have decided that I will try a primer. S-W gave me a quart of "bonding primer" and a quart of gloss acrylic latex (my wife didn't like the "high gloss" I tried), to their credit.
I am not cheap and have spent lots of money where it counts, but we've used a lot of bargains, and have done all the finish work except drywall and laying the carpet. Otherwise we wouldn't have been able to build a 4000 sq. ft. house without borrowing any money.
I just wanted to know how you guys would recommend painting vinyl shutters.
Im sure you will be happy with them . I like to clean and use primer because you havent been with these shutters since manufactor. Most of the time there is a film of "something on them " . I have painted very nice houses in my past and have been called back to fix something that is peeling . Adhesion is that problem. That says enough. I will tell you one thing ; I sure dont feel as professional when Im called back out and its something like that . Call backs are an insult to me, that I have to handle with the same level of professionalism that I held when I sold the job.
There are many different opinions here, and also in every paint store Im sure . Since its been my butt on the line on my jobs , I have used Sherwin Williams , and their bonding primer to paint exterior doors ,trim, shutters,railings , etc. Vinyl shutters dont have a great surface for bonding as they are pretty slick. Ive never had a call back when Ive cleaned with super clean, rinsed, and used a bonable primer once they were dry.
Tim Mooney
Is "super clean" a brand name, or does this refer to a type of cleaner? Can you elaborate a little on this cleaner?
Super clean is on the front of the pail if you will. Comes in the same pail as antifreeze. Says" super clean " right on the front. A car detailer turned me on to it. Its an acid cleaner. It will burn your hands if used full strengh. WE wear rubber gloves when using it. Of course there is a thinned down rate for different applications. It will degrease an engine , clean a mechanics floor, etc.
I use it anywhere grease is prevailant to painting such as kitchen cabinets,vent hoods ,commercial and residential. I have used this cleaner straight on old cabinets and had exellent success painting them. I have cleaned food places such as Sonic , Pizza hut etc , and painted that very night . Its not sold as anything but a grease cleaner , but it is a h@ll of a prep before painting.
Tim Mooney
I stumbled on your comments on Super Clean. I will be cleaning 18 year old Oak raised panel kitchen cabinets prior to painting. The existing finish "appears" to be lacquer.
Do you dilute the Super Clean and by how much?
Thanks,
Tom
Depends on whats up.
If you are sure you are going to paint them then rubber gloves and full strengh. It will burn a brick layers hands and thats stout. Its a degreaser and has acid in it . Walmart uses it to clean the shop floor of spilled oil so they told me.
If you only want to clean then it needs to be diluted and there are directions for different applications , but full strengh lifts soft finishes.
Tim
What I really want is to ensure all cooking greases and dirt are removed and the gloss killed. I am going to paint after a primer called XIM Flashbond to ensure good bonding to the underlying lacquer. I agree with use of rubber gloves regardless of level of dilution.
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
I just went out in the shop and brought the pail in .{my wife would sh@t}
http://www.superclean.com says ; Castrol Super Clean cleaner -degreaser
Says it will dissolve motor oil on contact. drain opener,floor wax remover ,I have used it as an oven cleaner in my rentals, barbecue grills, It will knock slime stains on boats , tub junk on tubs and showers in diluted form. I keep it on board always in the painting or cleaning boxes , and also as a killer of grease or oil doing carpets .
Every body should be listening on this one . Its great , and only sells for like four dollars a gallon at Walmart in a very strong concentrate. I would not be with out it . Maybe they will hire me to rep for them. lol .
Tim Mooney
Tim...just tell your wife it's a laundry degreaser for your greasy work clothes- really. Add 1/4 to 1/2 a cup with detergent for a hot presoak, drain and wash as normal.
It really is a great degreaser, or I wouldn't be posting "Hints from Heloise"...
...up north attitude...
Been using it for years.
Also comes in a spray bottle. Makes application MUCH easier. Use the gallon for refilling the spray bottle.
One word of caution - it WILL eat vinyl if you use it full strength and leave it on too long. MAKE SURE you rinse thoroughly before you prime or paint.
James DuHamel
J & M Home Maintenance Service
Wow, thanks for the info on superclean. Sounds like a proven winner. I will definitely use it -- and yes, I will "test in an inconspicuous area" before going full bore.
I would second the bonding primer from SW. If you are using a dark green, it is probably a deep base tint or an ultra deep tint. Either one will need 2-3 coats over primer if brushed. Did you get the bonding primer tinted? They can tint their primers in different shades of grey. (P series P1 thru P5). P5 is their darkest grey and it is formulated to work with their dark colors. Covering a white primer with a dark color is very frustrating.
I would recommend spraying the bonding primer and the topcoat with an airless sprayer. It would be worth cleaning a pump for even just a few shutters. If a pump is not an option, I wish you happy brushing. :)
I know I`m off topic here, but wasn`t the idea of vinyl shutters (and siding) to be maintenance free? If you have to paint them, you`re going to have to mantain them. If ya use the super cleaner...buy it anywhere but Wal-Mart.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
I havent seen it anywhere but Walmart. A car detailer turned me on to it. It will degrease an engine , or a mechanics floor. Have you tried it ? I degrease old kitchens with the stuff. Paint latex over it if you did it through.
Next point is that they dont sell the green he wanted . [or she is more like it ]. Do you have a wife you listen to? [pun intended] My wife would want black, but the shade would be wrong !!!!!LOL. It would be cool if our wifes would accept what they sell, but the women I have worked for would starve me if they were that way. Come down to wifes and money JD, for that is the key to this thinking .
Tim Mooney
First, are you sure these are vinyl?
I just priced some composite shutters with colour in. They did offer some paintable ones but it still had colour. But I couldn't find anyone willing to sell vinyl, not that that was what I wanted.
Anyway, These composite paintable shutters had literature recommending a specific latex paint. My point is that your shutter manufacturer most likely has a recommendation based on their best experiences and testing. I remember from a class I took sometime in the last couple years that the only way to paint vinyl was to use a certain deglosser first. Maybe that is the product mentioned above. If your original vinyl still had the factory cream on the surface, the paint you havce been applying has been sliding around on a slick surtface and that is the reason you can't get it on thick enough. And if that is the case, you are more than likely to be revisiting the forum here in a couple of years with qyestions about these "paintable" vinyl shutters not holding paint because of blisters and flakes.
Short version - Did you read the instructions that came with the shutters?
We had excellent luck with two coats of Bennie Moore's exterior trim paint (MoorGlo, I believe). No primer. Painted them once when we put them up maybe 10-11 years ago, again when we repainted the house 2 years ago. No flaking or any such in-between, just wanted them to match the rest of the trim we were repainting.
Oops -- realized after posting that this was an ancient thread. Still, FWIW ...
happy?
Edited 2/8/2006 2:12 pm by DanH