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I’ve been contracted to paint an interior of an old relic, the woodwork of which hasn’t been touched since before my birth. The wide casings show bubblilng of the shellac (or whatever it was they used then) and retain their very dark stain. I am to paint over all the wood. My question: What is the best way to prepare the woodwork to best hold paint for another 100 yrs.? The material is oak but the homeowner insists on paint, not strip and stain (thank God!).
Regards, 14-0
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If its shellac, it would look like new with alcohol and steel wool - maybe even burlap. Try this on one spotand the owners might be amazed. Give alcohol a little time to soften finish. This was usually not stained - just darkened with age.
*14-0, Bill is 100% correct, and I'll add, use more shellac or BIN which is shellac based for a primer if they insist on paint. You'll make life easier on the next guy (You?) who has to restore the old Oak back to bare wood and refinish with shellac!
*The homeowner needs his head examined, painting over 100 year old oak molding! What a shame...
*My upstairs trim is pine - beautiful, old growth, southern yellow pine - and was originally finished clear with shellac. At sometime it was painted - latex era I believe. Now, the paint is falling off of the shellac. I can "strip" it by using a utility knife blade as a razor and virtually shave off whole strips of it.Funny how they but the clear syp trim and maple floors upstairs and plain oak everywhere down.
*Wow, I'm with CLS on this one! I wouldn't even WANT to know how to paint over it! I don't do much painting, as little as possible, but I'd pass on this one. Just say no! Jeff
*Thanks for the replies, guys but if you reread my post "the homeohome ownerrsts on paint." What I need to know is how to paint over old woodwork. As many of you probably know, the customer is always right - even when you yourself question their wisdom. If I don't do it, they'll just find somebody else.Regards, 14-0
*14-0, As stated, use Shellac Based BIN for primer. One, it's a good primer, and will bond to the Shellac. Two, it will seal the oak from the latex or oil topcoat, and allow a saner person to restore the oak later. Best of both worlds.
*You may want to visit HUD's website they have "Guide lines to restoring historic homes" that may offer a pointer or to. Me I'm dangerous with a paint brush. Skip
*If I were doing same, I would do as I suggested above to get a solid, smooth, surface in the easiest way I know and then paint with alkyd primer and topcoat.
*I wouldn't do it. I'd tell the homeowners they were making a grave mistake, and to find someone else to commit their crimes and walk out the door.Steve
*There's an article in the new JLC about stripping paint with a chemically treated paper. You might check it out. If you build up too many layers of surface, it tends to blunt the details of the millwork. I'm no painter, but it's another thing to consider if they really want a first class job.
*Steve, unlike me, you must have buckets of $ to possess such an attitude w/customers. If I'm a builder and the customer asks for a ranch but I think cape cods are the way to go, I bite my tongue and build 'em a ranch. But...........if you could just walk out on principle........Regards, 14-0
*jim are you refering to "PEEL AWay? We are currently using it to strip of many layers of exterior paint and it is good stuff. Should have suggested it but it slipped my mind. Skip
*14-0,Nope, quite the pauper really. But that doesn't mean I'll sell my soul. I got into this business to do restoration work because I love old houses. That's just my niche. If someone wants to ruin an old house, they've got to hire someone other than me to do it. That doesn't mean I won't build new whataver anyone wants (within limits), just that I won't destroy good old work. Granted, painting over clear hardwood woodwork is reversible (after a fashion) I still wouldn't do it.Steve
*Yeah Skip. I just looked a little closer at that article and it is "Peel Away". This guy thins the jell with water and sprays it on. Looks much easier than I would have imagined. A lot of work, for sure, but not undoable. Well worth reading. My experiences with stripping paint have been pretty messy.
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I've been contracted to paint an interior of an old relic, the woodwork of which hasn't been touched since before my birth. The wide casings show bubblilng of the shellac (or whatever it was they used then) and retain their very dark stain. I am to paint over all the wood. My question: What is the best way to prepare the woodwork to best hold paint for another 100 yrs.? The material is oak but the homeowner insists on paint, not strip and stain (thank God!).
Regards, 14-0