I’m striking out again. I remember an article about open pantry shelving in an issue sometime in the last year or so. I’ve scoured my old issues, the Index and the website of archived articles and can’t find it. Does anyone remember this article and could you point me to the issue?
I’ve got that exact design in mind, and hope to find it for tips.
Thanks in advance
Replies
Ken,
Don't remember the article, but do you have questions that may be answered here on the subject?
Dez
I have a narrow, sorta deep space off of my laundry room that I plan on using for pantry storage. At 2-5 x 5-4, I plan on putting a narrow, 8" stack of shelves on the long wall (for canned goods) and a 24" deep shelf at the end for pots/pans/big stuff.I was thinking of using 1x2 pine vertical supports on the front and using 5/8 particleboard with rounded over edges. Paint with a semi-gloss.Any thoughts on MDF vs particle board, or for that matter, any other details? Since this is in the laundry room, it won't get much visibility and functionality/cost is much more important than aesthetic design.
The article you are looking for is in the Kitchens and Bath issue, No. 159, Pg. 86.
Ralph, I JUST stumbled across that article. Picked up an issue that was lying around and said "I wonder if..." and lo and behold, there it is. Why is the online archive so messed up that it doesn't list this article? "Hard-Working Pantires", "Pantries", "Shelves"... nothing shows up! I do not like this search engine. Having a similar problem in trying to find a furniture article in FWW. GRRRRR!Anyway, back to the original subject, I was thinking of the design described on p. 88.Thanks Ralph!! You da man!
.
I was wondering what you had in mind. Here's one I did in about '76.
All done in Pine.
Edited 12/7/2004 1:32 am ET by Dez
I built a can shelf using 1x6 (3/4x5 1/2) that holds exactly 2 cans deep. don't thin a 7 1/2" shelf would hold 3 cans deep.
Particle board will sag soon with the weight of cans, specially if you stack 'em 2 high.
Don't round the edges and don't inlet the 2x front brace if you use a 5 1/2" shelf.
Get some cans and measure them in different arrangements. Put a wider shelf overhead for cereal boxes and such.
SamT
I've had more than a few customers ask about replacement of there ventilated shelving with solid boards. I have had good luck with lumberyard birch plywood and the adhesive edge banding. You can buy a whole sheet and rip down to dims needed for your particular situation.
I've been using an 11 1/2" shelf supported sides and back by shelf cleats screwed into framing members. Just followed up with a customer from a year ago and no problems, sags, etc. Longest I'm comfortable with is about 45". Anymore than that I would consider using a piece of 1X2 poplar as edge band to stiffen the shelf along its length, maybe even 1X3.
Best Regards
I agree with others....stay away from the particle board. It will most likely sag before long...and depending on the proximatey to the laundry area, any moisture (humidity) is going to wreak havoc. Solid wood would be my second choice...MDF or plywood my first.J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Thanks for the thoughts guys. Here's a rough sketch of what I'm doing.
(NOT TO SCALE)
I like the choice of MDF, and have successfully used it for a pantry project also. I made the shelves different depths to fit the space. If you don't have a strong helper and a great dust collection system, plan to cut the MDF to size in the driveway on saw horses right off the back of your truck or van, and use your router to roll the edges outside also.
Dusty (and Lefty)
I'd stay away from that 24" depth, as you can only reach the back by reaching over every thing in front (and everything will land--or wander--to the closest edge, want to or not). Then, you can on reach in 24" deep from about 24" to maybe 48" above the floor.
Since it's in the back, too, you really can't but a 24" deep "base" shelf in with 12" deep shelves over that, as the front edge keeps you from reaching the upper shelves. Catch-22 in a nutshell.
Doesn't mean it can't work--just that roll-out shelvesbins may work a tad better.
I happen to be a big fan of the wire shelves for kitchen storage. They cast fewer shadows, and hold less dust than solid shelving. (It's pretty rare to find any dead coleoptera lounging on their backs on the wire shelves, too, come to cases . . . ) But the real upside for the wire shelves for me is the adjustability. Need a shelf just "that much" higher for this or that? Move the brackets up a notch and put the shelf back in--done. Not so easy with fixed shelves.
But that's my personal opinion, others differ.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I'm not set on the 24" for the back shelf. I just figured that I want to make it as deep as possible for pot/pan/serving platter/appliance storage. So I guess I could go with (2) 24" deep shelves on the bottom, then narrower up top (12-16", perhaps). I can appreciate the thoughts about the wire, but my experience is that the little things slip between the wires and they're less practical.
Hmmm, wire shelves with plexi on top for those? or just make them 12"??
Perhaps a Lazy Susan at the rear.PJ
Whatever you can do or dream you can, Begin it Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it. Goethe
For pots and pans, consider a "flat" pot rack. This can be mounted on the "clear" (no shelves) wall. That gets the pots & such up out of the way, but still handy.
For trays & special cutting borads, etc., I like purpose-mounting "L" screws. These get some clear shrink tubing run over them. Now, the trays & boards are not only out of the way, but they are also visible (means you either get to admire them "more" or that they help be part of the decor.
Ah, there are wire shelves and there are wire shelves. It's worth shopping around to see what's available. One option is "bookcase" wire shelving--this uses a narrower spacing on the wires. As you point out, plex works too, and needs not be thick. Expanded metal sheeting works, too, for that matter (the colored sheets can actually look kind of cool). The other thing the EMS has going for it, is that it can be bent, to make a divided "space" on a shelf. That divider can match a specific thing (like a container; the tea cups; the parts for the food processor, etc.), an the whole thing can move to the best shelf for it.
But, not much in my kitchen is "put away," as it's often "in use." That, and I like showing off the cool stuff. I like the plates and glasses visible--if only behind a glass front door--too; helps guests find those sorts of things. That's me, others differ.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)