I am a renovation contractor in western Canada. On smaller jobs i do my own taping but for some reason I always catch flak for using mesh tape. I find that I can work with it better. Is there any good reasons for using paper instead of mesh?
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On large gaps it might stop cracking better than mesh. I use mesh because it sticks up by itself I don't have to lay a bed of mud in the crack. This is especially useful on ceilings. I do drywall only when i have to, so every step i can eliminate is a good thing. My joints are tight, so mesh works fine for me.
I don't know the cost difference.
Regards,
Ken
"Do as you would be done by." C.S. Lewis
Mesh will tend to be stronger on larger gaps, but it also costs much more $
Paper is cheap, creases easily for inside joints, and it has a high strengthJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
I've seen some claims that paper is actually stronger than mesh. Also, in theory, mesh should always have a first coat of a setting mud (though I don't know why -- that's just what the mfgr says). Certainly, there can be more trouble with stray fibers poking out from the mesh.
But having said that, I've used mesh a fair amount (always with standard premixed mud) and never had any trouble with it (at least nothing worse than with paper).
Another option is a self-stick paper tape. I got some at HD a couple of years ago and used it on a closet project. It seemed to work fine.
Just saw the self-stick paper and picked up a roll.
I'm gonna try it for the first time tomorrow.
Let us know what you think about it. Some of the things you like and don't like about it.
I am in the process of putting up some rock right now and would like to know. I have the regular paper tap on hand. I need something that will go were the new butts up against the old. I have a few areas where the former owner used masking tap to repair spots were tap had come loose. Then painted over the masking tap. (bath and kitchen mostly)
DaneI will always be a beginner as I am always learning.
I will have to check into the self stick stuff. It sounds like pretty handy stuff. The only problem will be keeping it around the job site. Anything that works seems to go missing around here.
I teach construction trades, my studenta get a little bit of everytheing and when they tape quite a few get bubbles under their paper tape. mesh reads thru and they have to put on an extra coat to top it off. i always tell them it's easier to do four coats with mesh than have to redo paper tape. if they do a lot of drywall on the job they will learn the right mix and amount of compound to use before applying paper tape.
If you are using mesh, use D Bond or another setting type compound for scratch coat.
Eric
I'd be a bit leary of self stick paper tape.
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Arty - the short answer is yes. Paper is better bridging a seam then mesh ( check the USG handbook if you'd like a second opinion) Having said that I'll tell you what one of the best tapers I ever worked with showed me. Take some mesh and some paper and cut off a short piece of each, 3" will do. Now hold the paper in both hands (vertical ) with a thumb and forefinger on each side. Try to "wiggle" the edges of the paper up and down against each other , you can't do it without a lot of force. Now do the same thing with the mesh, you can move it with hardly any force. The point being that most cracks occur from that type of movement and the paper resists it much better. Made a believer out of me (25 years ago) still am, my 3 cents ...BUIC
Arty,
You have a common question here. Paper has a much longer learning curve, and you cant beat a good finisher, especially if you are the painter.
Im in peoples houses all the time, after the new construction is no longer new. Most joint failure that I see is with mesh tape.
It may be quicker to learn mesh, but paper is pro quality. Fight the monster, be pro quality.
-zen
Whenever I see a hairline crack telegraphing the joint, it is from mesh instead of paper. i think of mesh as being for plaster skim coating or for DIY SR. I've never seen a pro use mesh to tape rock
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Before everyone rags me, no I'm no pro rocker, but when I do drywall it's normally on an in & out remodel job, so time is of the essence. I use mesh on taper joints and paper on butts & corners. Using Easy-Sand 45 for the tape coat and nail holes and Lite AP for the finish, I can do a great job on most jobs in under 3 days, especially if an orange peel on walls is spec'ed. If I was gonna do a whole house though, I'd prolly use paper all 'round.
Mesh tape is ok for repairs, or on rock hung on old, stable framing. New construction that is taped with mesh generally cracks inside of a year as the framing dries out, shrinks, and moves the gyprock.
I used mesh tape on the first house I ever built. Every joint cracked. Okay, well not every joint, but 'way too many. I was embarrassed big time.
I hate when that happens.
Paper takes slightly more time, but it does a better job and does not telegraph through. It's also a good deal less expensive.
Dinosaur
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But it is not this day.