Any effective ways of getting rid of/minimizing the smell from new melamine shelfing?
Would sealing the exposed edges help? If so, what to use?
Any effective ways of getting rid of/minimizing the smell from new melamine shelfing?
Would sealing the exposed edges help? If so, what to use?
Listeners write in about haunted pipes and building-science tomes, and they ask questions about roof venting and roof leaks.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 70%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Paint on Tite-Bond II or III...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Full strength with my 2 1/2 Purdy sash?
Over kill always works...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Whaaat? Formaldehyde doesn't put you in the mood? Air changes, what?
Anything to seal the edges will help. Hot melt edging is the simplest thing. If you're doing a lot, a Freud edgebander works pretty well. Otherwise, an iron (don't tell DW). Nicer to look at and far more durable would be thin wood strips glued on with aliphatic resin glue, or hide glue (easier if you happen to have a glue pot). Masking tape works fine for clamping aliphatic resin (yellow) glue. Then you've gotta trim the overlap. Probably just the glue would make a difference.
Breathe deep!
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Hey Tom, how is it going?
Formaldehyde put me in the mood? Not when I am still kicking.
See if I can understand what you are trying to say...if I spare DW's iron and use her pot to cook up some hide glue...the smell of the hide glue may put her in the mood?
Thanks.
See if I can understand what you are trying to say...if I spare DW's iron and use her pot to cook up some hide glue...the smell of the hide glue may put her in the mood?
You have an interesting wife... that's a dead horse in there. My horse-breeding customers find it hilarious.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
I came across some special tree-hugger paint a few months back....hmm.... drawing a blank, can't remember what it was called.
But basically its environmentally friendly paint that is designed to seal OSB/MDF/Plyw/etc from outgassing. At the time I thought it was kinda pricey, but stuck it away in the back of my mind for future reference. Unfortunately the brain doesn't work as well as it should...so all I can remember is that there is a product out there...
Hmm... wait a sec....
Darn, thought I'd kept a brochure (knowing that my memory isn't good), but I can't find it if I did.
But on a related note, pulled out a book (The Solar House, by Daniel Chiras), and he mentions:
" install vapor barriers..." not really applicable in your case
"... can be coated with nontoxic sealants before being nailed in place. These sealants are available at green-building supply outlets, such as the Building for Health Materials Center in Carbondale, CO, or any of the other nearly half-dozen similar mail-order companies in the US...blah..blah..recommends AFM's SafeSeal for engineered woods, including OSB and I-joists, and AFM HardSeal for interior applications such as the engineered wood used to make cabinets... Water-soluble polyurethane also works well..."
Obviously if you're using it for melamine shelving, you wouldn't need much to coat the edges.
jt8
Thanks John. I think I'll go with IMERC on Tite-bond II.
It's readily available and I know it's used to seal bleeding for knots, so it should work in this situation.
BIN brand pigmented shellac will probably work, and it is white, too! The Titebond sounds good. I always learn new stuff here.
Bill
Get a few spider plants. They metabolize (eat) formaldehyde, and look nice too. Probably won't help much with the immediate smell, though. And not much good in a new car, where the concentration of formaldehyde is probably 100x greater than in your kitchen right now...
Used to have spider plants but they died on me, guess I didn't feed them enough formaldehyde.
>>And not much good in a new car, where the concentration of formaldehyde is probably 100x greater than in your kitchen right now...
...and the catalyst they used on PVC too. I read a report which suggested you keep your new car windows open for the first six months because of all those carcinogens around you. That's why I always buy used cars...may be used book shelves from now on.
Just iron on some edge banding. Simple, fast, and it won't hurt DW's iron. Set the heat to the upper end of the perma-press range, but not all the way over to cotton or you'll scorch it.
Speaking of formaldehyde, didja ever have a beer in the Dominican Republic called El Presidente?
Whooooo. Stuff is so loaded up you get the hangover before you pass out....
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
>>Set the heat to the upper end of the perma-press range, but not all the way over to cotton or you'll scorch it.
For wood veneer banding do I set it to cotton?
>>Speaking of formaldehyde, didja ever have a beer in the Dominican Republic called El Presidente?
Nope, have you got some? Here's my address...
Depends on whether or not you want that antiqued, time-darkened look right away, LOL....
Yeah, actually, I think you can use a slightly higher setting for wood veneer but I usually don't bother; just run the iron over a bit slower. After you've done it a few times you can feel when the glue has melted by the very slight 'squishy' feeling under the iron.Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Veeneer banding is set to cotton...
Paint wood glue on it...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!